January 31, 200620 yr 2000 LegacyGT Auto wagon. Well, not quite the novice, I have changed the front pads but now I'm going in for the rotors. I figure with 82,000 miles on the rotors, with high speed serious shimmy on braking on occasion, I may have reached "warp speed". With no recollection if they've been cut more than once, 1stsubaruparts has the rotors for $63. Is it a best bet to skip cutting and just replace and if so, stay oem for pads and rotors. Never had squealing and don't want to start now. There have been some informative links here about rotor warping and causes that probably raise more questions than give answers. I don't think I abuse the car but I do drive aggressively around CT. streets and hways. No off road other than to change a tire. P.S.Do the rotors just pull off after the removal of the two caliper bolts and caliper? Where are the essential lube points and products to use?
January 31, 200620 yr some useful links: how to swap rotors (applies to impreza or legacy or forester) http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=476 changing pads http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=84 i wouldnt recommend turning rotors they are so thin in most cases, it's hardly worth the effort for $50-60 each? it's best to simply replace them. hope this helps. oh and try this catalog.... https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html erm... my day job shout with questions. Jamie Thomas email: Jamie at chaplins.com http://www.subarugenuineparts.com *************************** http://www.subiegal.com
January 31, 200620 yr Author Thanks Jamie. As always, spot on and helpful. My mistake, I thought you were with 1stSub and have been directing business their way (doh). some useful links: how to swap rotors (applies to impreza or legacy or forester) http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=476 changing pads http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=84 i wouldnt recommend turning rotors they are so thin in most cases, it's hardly worth the effort for $50-60 each? it's best to simply replace them. hope this helps. oh and try this catalog.... https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html erm... my day job shout with questions. Jamie Thomas email: Jamie at chaplins.com www.subarugenuineparts.com *************************** www.subiegal.com
January 31, 200620 yr I'd second that - turning rotors is generally a waste of money with new ones so cheap. And who wants thin rotors? Not me mon.
January 31, 200620 yr Where are the essential lube points and products to use? The only lube points are the guides that allow the caliper to slide freely for braking and releasing. When you remove the bottom bolt swing the caliper up and then slide it back to reveal the top guide pin. Remove the rubber boots and give them and the pin a thorough cleaning. Then pop the rubber boots and pull the bushing out that the bottom bolt went through. When I did mine last week I was shocked at how dry they were--I had suspected a bit of "drag" in my brakes for awhile and assume that was why. After cleaning, coat the sliding surfaces with high temperature caliper brake grease. I got some at NAPA, comes in little packets. Then reassemble. Now, believe it or not, I'm enjoying stops in traffic!!! An hoping it improves my mpg too.
January 31, 200620 yr speaking of useful links, here's stoptech's explanation for "warped" rotors. The white papers have a lot of brake information.
January 31, 200620 yr turning rotors is an annoying process altogether. if you were short on change and it's worth the time to save a couple dollars, and you got another car to taxi your rotors around town, turning might be your ticket. but it's annoying and a waste of time in my oppinion. subaru brake systems are robust and handle most aftermarket pads very well, i wouldn't have any concern using aftermarket pads on subarus. (i've only done it for about 400,000 miles.....)
January 31, 200620 yr Thanks Jamie. As always, spot on and helpful. My mistake, I thought you were with 1stSub and have been directing business their way (doh). no worries the names are similar i'd like to help though if i can and want to be a presence here if folks have questions or need part numbers blah blah i'll try to be around to help (that's why i took this job duuuuuuuuuuuh! ) cheers Jamie Thomas Jamie at chaplins.com *************************** http://www.subiegal.com
February 1, 200620 yr I am in agreement with the rotors being cheap, but why not turn them for $8-12 bucks if you can. Depending upon how one brakes, they can last a longtime. I guess some may call me cheap, I would like to think economic.
February 1, 200620 yr I am in agreement with the rotors being cheap, but why not turn them for $8-12 bucks if you can. Depending upon how one brakes, they can last a longtime. I guess some may call me cheap, I would like to think economic. Well, warped rotors aren't actually warped. They have an uneven deposite of pad compound, which causes the vibration and hotspots on the rotor. These hotspots can cause parts of the cast iron rotor to turn to cementite, which has different abrasive properties. So, once this happens, even if you turn the rotor and get rid of the thickness variations, the vibration will come back. If the vibration is just starting, bedding in new pads can stop it. Improper installation and crappy rotors could be causes for actual warpage.
February 1, 200620 yr I am in agreement with the rotors being cheap, but why not turn them for $8-12 bucks if you can. Depending upon how one brakes, they can last a longtime. I guess some may call me cheap, I would like to think economic. I don't know - just seems like every time I get rotors turned, I'm back in there replacing them within six months to a year. I don't have facts or theories, just experience.
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