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Clutch - Please Help -


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ok i just got a 87 Gl sedan ( 2wd ) and it needs a new clutch.

 

so i thought id go buy a clutch kit and put it in myself ( with the help of a few friends )

 

two problems:

 

i dont know where to get a clutch kit. websites? local shops? ( north seattle )

 

i dont know what kind i need.

 

- thanks for any help!

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Hey mate

I live in aus but i can still help ya.

 

All ya need is a auto shop or a subaru dealer and ask 4 one.

It should come with a throw out bearing pressure plate and clutch disc.

 

U will have to remove the gearbox or even maybe the engine (depending on wat u wanna do)

 

And then u will see the clutch assembly.

 

BE SURE TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY B4 U START.

 

If ya need any other help post a reply or email me @ Cams_scrutineer@hotmail.com

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first see if you can find a friend with access to a comerical account at carquest or the like...... then have them get a clutch kit for your car you will need

 

make

model

year

AT OR Manual trany,

The stupid counter person will also want to know if it has Air Condioning but it dosnt matter

and weather its a turbo or not...

2wd or 4wd,

 

even if yoru going to have a shop do it try and go this rout for buying the parts becuase oyu can save yourself alot of money....

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first see if you can find a friend with access to a comerical account at carquest or the like...... then have them get a clutch kit for your car you will need

 

make

model

year

AT OR Manual trany,

The stupid counter person will also want to know if it has Air Condioning but it dosnt matter

and weather its a turbo or not...

2wd or 4wd,

 

even if yoru going to have a shop do it try and go this rout for buying the parts becuase oyu can save yourself alot of money....

 

 

Auto or manual?????????????

Manual has a clutch

AUTO HAVE A TOURQUE COVERTOR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Auto or manual?????????????

Manual has a clutch

AUTO HAVE A TOURQUE COVERTOR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Leave it to parts people to ask that question when you ask for a clutch kit!!:rolleyes:

Don't forget to replace the pilot bearing as well. Not all clutch kits come with one.

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Also consider pulling the engine rather than the tranny. Using an engine hoist and working from the top is usually easier than using a transmission jack and working from the bottem. Check prices online (two local dealers sell online at a discount, do a search for them) and price them over the 'phone NAPA, Schucks, B&B, and Bow-Wow (if you call Bow-wow in Lynnwood, ask for Chris...he's USMB friendly). Good luck with the repair.

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How much time do you have. if this is your first try it will take some time.

 

nothing about this is hard. just time consuming first time out...

 

pulling the motor is the easyest way and is in no way hard. my very first one was a 79 wagon i was 10years old and i pulled it in 45min with air tools had to have help putting it back in but it wasnt hard....

 

 

heres what you do...

 

get a bunch of baggys and lable keep your bolts seperat by putting them in the baggys as you take them out.

 

such as

trany bolts.

engin mount bolts.

colling fan bolts.

 

 

here is how i do it..

 

take 4 10mm bolts from the electric cooling fan. and the 4 10mm bolts from the clutch fan shroud.

 

pull top rad hose. and lower rad hose.

 

take cluch fan off by pulling 4 10mm nuts that hold it to the water pump..

 

now take radiator out. 2 12mm bolts. a few wires and your good.(taking out the rad is not a must but will give you more room to work and will help )

 

now crawl under the car and take the 4 nuts that hold the exhost on. 14mm

take the exhost hanger bolt loos (the one on the trany) one bolt 14mm i think

 

then take the 2 nuts that are in the crossmember

now pull all electrical connection that go to the eninge. there should be 2 big ones by the batery.

 

pull the fuel lines(put collored tape. or duck tape lables on them so they will be easy to pull(screw drivers needed) and reconnect in order.

 

lossen both belts by using the adjusters 12 and 14mm will be needed. and take them off.

 

if you have powerstearing there are three short bolts that hold it on you will have to put the 12 or 14mm socket through the pully to get to them...

once removed take any other little brakes that hold the power stearing lines on off i think there are 2 10mm bolts that hold the hard line on. then flop the power stearing pump off to the side.

 

if you have AC do the same with the ac pump. 12mm i think there are usualy 4 bolts that hold the pump on they will look like they go right through the pump from the battery side to the alternator side.

 

now take the 2 14mm nuts off the bottom of the bellhousing. and the 2 bolts off the top.

 

anyway ill finish this later. but relly this is the easy way....

 

if this seams overwheeming. maybe there is a board member you can pay to help you. would be cheeper the doing it at a shop and you would learn somthing... anyway if you want more insturcions or are going to atempt it ill finish this very genral righup.....

later and good luck

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ok i got a clutch kit at action auto in shoreline for $114.how do i put it in? i have a chiltons repair manual. but how do i get to the dang thing!? someone mentioned taking the engine out!!! i dont think i could do that ....
As a mechanic i would personal be takin the motor as well due to that the gearbox is hard to pull down due to the shape and placment of things in the tunnel. from past experences the motr is the most time consuming but its a hell of alot easier then trying to get the box out.
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You might want to consider having your fly wheel turned at a machine shop It only cost me about 20 dollars, Your clutch will 'GRAB' a lot better if it has fresh surface metal to contact to. If you do the job yourself be sure to use loctite on the flywheel and flex plate bolts, it will give you peace of mind and help make sure you only have to open it up once

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I second the turning move - just make sure a good machine shop does it, and that they know it is a two-step flywheel, and it needs the offset checked/maintained - they should be able to look up the spec'd clearence

 

I dropped the tranny in mine, and it was a REAL PITA - the engine should be MUCH easier as it is light

 

I would use new bolts and lockwashers for the flexplate - the stock ones are class 7 steel, and I had one break off on me before I reached specified torque (luckily some of the shaft was still above the flywheel) - I replaced them with class 10.8 bolts (stronger metal) - be sure that ALL flywheel-engine and flexplate bolts are IDENTICAL when you install it, or you will have a problem because it will be unbalanced

 

the flywheel-to-engine bolts must have the threads coated with something (I used RTV silicone) because the are drilled through on the crankshaft, so you need something to seal the oil in, or you will be doing the clutch again shortly

 

keep ALL clutch mating surfaces clean, and if you get anything on them, use brake cleaner to remove it

 

baggies and a sharpie to write on them with are CRITICAL to doing a job this big

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