samo Posted February 9, 2006 Share Posted February 9, 2006 So, I went out to change out the front pads on Sunshine, my '92 EA82, and it looks like the right side e-brake is jammed on, thus, dragging the brake on that side. How do I unjam this thing? I took a look at the mechanism on the back of the caliper, but I don't really know what to look for, so I couldn't tell if it looked right or not. On the left side, the boot around the piston is all torn up. Problem? Or just 'forget about it?' I was also unable to get the piston to fully seat in its bore via twisting. It seemed like it would not move at all. Any help is appreciated ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GLCraig Posted February 9, 2006 Share Posted February 9, 2006 Disconnect the E-brake cable from the right caliper and see if it releases; you may have a bad cable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samo Posted February 9, 2006 Author Share Posted February 9, 2006 Ahh, see, now that would be the smart thing to do. If the cable is bad, what's the difficulty level of the replacement? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayakertom Posted February 9, 2006 Share Posted February 9, 2006 The adjusting threaded rod for the e-brake is located under the plastic tray that is below the handbrake. Those pistons are sometimes hard to turn without the proper tool. I've sometimes used a hammer and metal rod to tap rotate them back enough to allow new pads to fit. You can get by for a short time without the dust boot, but it sounds like its time for the brake calipers to be rebuilt. How are the rotors? So, I went out to change out the front pads on Sunshine, my '92 EA82, and it looks like the right side e-brake is jammed on, thus, dragging the brake on that side. How do I unjam this thing? I took a look at the mechanism on the back of the caliper, but I don't really know what to look for, so I couldn't tell if it looked right or not. On the left side, the boot around the piston is all torn up. Problem? Or just 'forget about it?' I was also unable to get the piston to fully seat in its bore via twisting. It seemed like it would not move at all. Any help is appreciated ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samo Posted February 9, 2006 Author Share Posted February 9, 2006 The adjustment on the handle is fine - checked it, it's loosening the cable like it should. The left side releases, the right side just goes slack, but doesn't release at the caliper. I have a decent tool for turning the pistons - it's just that the left piston does not want to move back into its bore. It rotates fine, but doesn't retract. Need I apply pressure into the piston to retract it? Rotors aren't bad. The right is worn a bit more than the left, as it has apparently had its brakes dragged for a while, but both have plenty of life left. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flowmastered87GL Posted February 9, 2006 Share Posted February 9, 2006 Happened to my GL years ago.... I just replaced the calipers. (and rotors because I cooked em) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samo Posted February 9, 2006 Author Share Posted February 9, 2006 Cool, I'll check and see whether it's the caliper or the cable binding up and replace as necessary. What about the driver's side? What could be keeping the piston from seating all the way in its bore? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted February 9, 2006 Share Posted February 9, 2006 my ebrake stuck last year as well. i freed it up...can't remember what i did but it wasn't hard. haven't had any troubles since and i've put 10,000 miles or so on it since then at least. i recall the pads being thin and replaced them after the incident. warped that rotor too so i'll have to replace that. not sure on the piston seating. overheating (is that the "stuck" side) or internal rust on the cylinder bore. trying extending it out, rotating back in a couple times. there's a tool that makes this much easier than the little square block ratchet attachment. harbor freight has them on sale now for 19.99. is the caliper still on the car, if the ebrake is still pulling or stuck on that caliper, that will prevent the piston from going back in. make sure to pull the ebrake cable if that apperas to be the problem. pull it out of the connection with a pair of pliers. i would not worry about the busted rubber boot. it's just a dust shield, not an actually seal or anything. if there is any wetness inside the boot then the sealing bad on the piston and you need another caliper. i've left torn boots on mine before without issue. i located a rebuild kit for my calipers a couple years ago on line and it was less than 10 dollars if i remember correctly, it was really cheap. i had never rebuilt calipers before but it was really easy. straight forward. blow the piston out (compressed air or pump the brake pedal until it comes all the way out), clean up the insides install the seal around the piston, install the piston and dust boot cover and yo'ure done. really simple. i have since tried to find another rebuild kit and can't find them, but i haven't looked really hard since i don't need it yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samo Posted February 9, 2006 Author Share Posted February 9, 2006 Thanks, Gary! That makes me feel a lot better. I'd guess that the e-brake is still pulling a bit on the driver's side, not letting the piston seat. I'll pull the cable out on that side and try to reseat it. If you think of what you did to free the cable, let me know, I'm interested. Thanks guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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