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I recently had my disty die in my 87 gl10. I swaped in a used spare I had sitting around. It worked but had a bad top bearing inside.

 

I tried to find a new replacemet sensor for the dead distributor with little luck. on line subaru parts places blew me off and my local parts store ordered some thing that was not what I needed.

I finally went down to the junk yard and tore appart a distributor in a SPFI car. what luck its the same.

I ordered a couple heavy duty replacment bearings from mcmaster carr.

if you wonder the o.e. bearing was a NTN 6200.

 

swaped the spfi sensor and a new bearing into my original distributor and it works great now.

swaped the second new bearing into my spare distributor.

now I have two good distributors for less than 30$ hows that for el cheapo?

 

I post this because I read in the USRM that if you had distributor bearings failing then you need a new distributor. If you are willing to take a little extra time and effort you can save some fundage and still get a "better than junkyard" distributor.

 

no I did not take pics.

Its not that hard to do but if people are interested I would do another and document the process.

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Right on Russ.. I have had 2 distributors crap out on me in the past few years. I have used an SPFI distributor in my 87 T wagon as well:).

 

I think a cool little write up of the procedure would very cool.. What with all that free time you have and all;). I may just do one myself if I get time before you. Is always a good thing to have a spare.

 

Now if you could only fix MAFs:mad:

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Right on Russ.. I have had 2 distributors crap out on me in the past few years. I have used an SPFI distributor in my 87 T wagon as well:).

 

I think a cool little write up of the procedure would very cool.. What with all that free time you have and all;). I may just do one myself if I get time before you. Is always a good thing to have a spare.

 

Now if you could only fix MAFs:mad:

thanks Caleb. If I had a donation of a bad distributor I would go ahead and do a little write up with pics.

I bet the bearing could be purchased at a regular parts store too as long as you got the right part number. bearings like this are often used as pilot bearings or idler bearings.

as for MAFs. well all I can really do there is clean a dirty MAF. but anyone can do that.

 

If someone has a source for affordable NEW distributor sensors please pipe up here.

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I ordered a couple heavy duty replacment bearings from mcmaster carr.

if you wonder the o.e. bearing was a NTN 6200.

they carry ABEC bearings, how did you cross reference the part you needed? i like their inventory, now to cross reference which bearings are the same as our NTN bearings. great info.
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As far as I know, ABEC is the rating of the bearing manufacturing tolerances.

ABEC-1 thru ABEC-6 I believe. ABEC-6 being the best. And the part number

should be the same for most manufacturers. It refers to the dimensions of the

bearing (skf 6200, ntn 6200= same thing)

 

Here's one -

http://cgi.ebay.com/SKF-Radial-Bearing-6200-2Z_W0QQitemZ7535057659QQcategoryZ64819QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

The 2Z after the part number means it has two metal shields. Now one thing

you need to know is whether the stock part is supposed to be oiled or greased.

I would imagine they should be greased, not oiled. Grease lasts longer and helps

keep more dirt and moisture out of the small opening between the inner race and

the dust shield. Just my .02 though.

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I would imagine they should be greased, not oiled. Grease lasts longer and helps

keep more dirt and moisture out of the small opening between the inner race and

if it doesn't get any oil supply then it is almost certainly grease. the distributor gear does sit down in the cam and is lubricated by oil, so if it gets oil routed from there some how then maybe it's open and oil lubricated?

 

you edited your post after i replied, no matter though. thanks for the link and bearing number/size information, i can use this for other items for sure. i've tried to look up bearings before.

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For future reference, this place carries a bunch of different brands.

They have the NTN 6200's in stock.

 

http://www.motorrepairmaterials.com/estore/Add2CartNonCommNoStk.asp?ProductCode=NTN-6200-2Z&Id=null

 

http://www.motorrepairmaterials.com/estore/search.asp?pClass=BEAR

 

Oops! They're out of business. Well it's still has some good reference info.

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Holms that is Awesome!

that is exactly what we needed. That is a decent price too.

 

the bearing recieves little to no oil from the engine. only the lower bushing does.

a decent 6200 sealed bearing shold run you about 5 to 8 bucks. get the ones with nitrill seals if you can. dont waste you time on the 2.99 cheapies.

 

as a side note I saw the lower bushing on sale from the NAPA web site. both my bushings were in excelect condition so I reused them.

 

well my offer stands. I will rebuild a doner EA82 EFI distributor for somone for the cost of parts and shipping so I can do a write up with pics for our site here. I already have a good spare here so I dont need any more myself.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...

diggin up an oldie here.

 

I have recieved a distributor in need or rebuilding finally thanks to a fellow board member. another Russ actually.

 

my camera is not workng well But I have a pic with all the parts torn down.

subaru_distributor.jpg

 

as you can see there is not a lot in there.

first thing- soak all the screws with penitrating oil before removing and use a GOOD screwdriver. no not the old worn out wall mart special.

 

to disassemble it you first remove the screws that hold the plate in place(top left on rag)

remove the plate and then there is the rotor mounting(top of the rag) the screw is in the middle. remove it.

next carefully rotate the sensor wheel untill it can be removed.

the alignment piece that is under the sensor wheel comes out next. please note that the flat edge aligns with the hole in the sensor wheel base(top right of the rag) if you get this wrong on reassembly it may be impossible to set the timing.

next remove the three longer screws holding the hall effect sensor in place along with the smaller screws holding the lower connector in the base of the distributor. disconect and remove hall effect sensor and wiring.

now you will see the bearing with two screws holding it in place. remove the screws and the washer that sits on top of the bearing.(dont forget to use good penitrating oil!!).

at this point you will need to drive the shaft out of the distributor and bearing. I like to install a spare fastener in the top of the shaft before driving it out to prevent damaging the top of the shaft.

drive out the shaft using a small hammer and driver or a small press.

they usually come off with little trouble.

flip the shaft around and test the fit in the lower bushing. it should be a fairly snug fit but not binding. this bushing is usually still ok and can be reused but check it just in case.

 

 

you now have it all torn down. clean it up and reassemble it in the reverse order. install a new bearing for sure. they really tend to wear out.

 

I will try to get more pics of this one going back together once the new parts get here.

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Awesome thread, great writeup on the procedure.. i wish i could be so succinct sometimes :- )

 

the thread was great just for the technical info about bearings, its good to spread that info around. I learned alot about how universal bearing numbers are this past winter, i had a job rebuilding power tools.... but it was new to me, and new to about 90% or more of the ppl out there...

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