The car is an '86 GL-10, 2WD 3AT. It has a bad ignition switch, this has been tested and proven and I know that the start position of the switch isn't doing its job. I ordered an ignition switch off eBay and it was the wrong one. Who knew the '85 ignition switches were different from '86s? Anyway...

 

Here's my issue. I'm trying to wire in a button so that I can just put the key in run and press the button to start the car, but I can't figure out how the heck to do it. Does the ignition switch supply power or ground when you wanna crank it? I see a black wire with a yellow stripe that goes to the starter S terminal which I thought was the one I need...but then I need a 12v source? Yeah, I really don't know what the heck I'm doing. If anyone who has done this before can just give me a brief run-through of the procedure, that'd be greaaaat.

Skip has done this several times, and even made up a nice diagram: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=410405&postcount=6

Thanks for the help, hoozie, but that's not quite what I'm looking for. My ignition switch is bad, not my starter solenoid. I'm not trying to install a relay, just a button.

In both of my subarus, the prior owners have rigged push button starts on them. I think it's cool. I know that they had the button goto the black part on the starter (a little blade connector) then to the button. I don't know if it is a ground or a positive wire.

I guess what I am trying to say is that if it is a open ground and the button closes the loop. I can look tomorrow.

You need battery + ran to push button, then out to small terminal on starter. Would be best to have a fuse in the battery + wire, but I can't say what amp it should be...

Where do you normally tap into the B+ wire, then? If I run a B+ wire to one side of the button and the ignition switch-starter S terminal wire to the other side, the car should start? I'd test it, but I don't have the car handy right now.

the button will work for a while

the high current needed will eat the switch contacts

if it is not a heavy duty switch

 

thus using the relay => no need for a button

the ig switch will still control the relay

 

Napa has some very nice push buttons

less than 10 GW's just bought one today

for a different project

 

Pick up you battery juice from the main connector under

the dash that feeds the ig switch (large white wire)

 

to the switch and then to the small space connector on the back of the starter

 

A smart man would wire an inline fuse.

 

hope this helps good luck

The button I bought was rated for 3 amps. I couldn't find one that was rated any higher, but I figure since it will only be pressed long enough to start the car, then released, it could probably handle the current. How much current would actually be running through it? I can't imagine it'd be that much.

 

Okay, let me run through this quickly to make sure I've got it right. The button I have has two terminals on the back of it. If I run the black and yellow wire that runs to the starter to one and the white power wire to the other, that should be what I need? What amperage fuse would you recommend? And where?

 

Sorry for all the questions, I don't have much experience wiring in ghetto pushbutton starts. :-\

I am sorry sir, please take no offense but

you do not seem to listen to what I say,

so a reiteration will no doubt do little good.

 

I wish you much luck,

some one will surely lead you on the path to

electrical nirvana

Get a remote starter switch from Harbor Frieght for 9.99 and run the cable through the window.

 

Disturbing eh Skip?

 

GD

eh

I am sorry sir, please take no offense but

you do not seem to listen to what I say,

so a reiteration will no doubt do little good.

 

I wish you much luck,

some one will surely lead you on the path to

electrical nirvana

I'm not a "sir", and I am listening, just not understanding. It's hard to understand someone who uses little to no punctuation. Thanks for your help.

looking at the diagram skip made in the other thread, where he has it labeled 'wire from IG switch', that can either come from your ignition switch (yours doesn't work) or you can control that with a button.

 

So you will have 12v --> one side of button; other side of button to 'wire from IG switch' on the drawing.

This way the button only has roughly 200mA (0.2A) of current running through it; ie, not as much as the solenoid would need.

 

A 3amp button I would think would work, but I don't know exactly how much the solenoid draws, so I would feel better using a relay with a much higher current rating.

Okay, I think I've got it. I'll take a stab at it later, but first I think I'd better take a trip to the junk yard to get a spare switch incase I butcher this (which is very likely, knowing me). Thanks again, hoozie. I'll let you guys know how it turns out.

I found an ignition switch at Pick-N-Pull for $7, stuck it in there and now the car starts perfectly. I was expecting to have to fight with it to get it started since it sat for a few months, but it hardly even cranked, it just fired right up. So now I have a sweet eject button and a car that runs (but doesn't drive).

for those who fear electricity read below. for those who dont , just use the ol button alone. the "horn button switch" fro autozone is perfect. any moentary push button for an autootive application will work just fine

 

such as my sedan that has had the pushbutton for over 20,000 miles

 

the only button that "failed" as in the aforementioned fear of electricity, was one that came with a set of foglights to deonstrate the led ring while still in the box on the shelf

 

 

 

the button will work for a while

the high current needed will eat the switch contacts

if it is not a heavy duty switch

 

thus using the relay => no need for a button

the ig switch will still control the relay

 

Napa has some very nice push buttons

less than 10 GW's just bought one today

for a different project

 

Pick up you battery juice from the main connector under

the dash that feeds the ig switch (large white wire)

 

to the switch and then to the small space connector on the back of the starter

 

A smart man would wire an inline fuse.

 

hope this helps good luck