Well, on my way to work today my car started to shudder a bit and the tranny was slipping, after a little pokeing around I found the left front axle was borked. Made it to work keeping it below 35 in RWD (auto tranny so hopefully i didn't burn up the clutch packs) anyone know where I can get a cheap axle, i'll try the local JY but i was hopeing to find a cheap reman for about $75.00.

 

Edit: also has anyone tried to convert to fwd by takeing out the drive shaft and figureing a way to keep the yolk in?

Well, on my way to work today my car started to shudder a bit and the tranny was slipping, after a little pokeing around I found the left front axle was borked. Made it to work keeping it below 35 in RWD (auto tranny so hopefully i didn't burn up the clutch packs) anyone know where I can get a cheap axle, i'll try the local JY but i was hopeing to find a cheap reman for about $75.00.

 

Edit: also has anyone tried to convert to fwd by takeing out the drive shaft and figureing a way to keep the yolk in?

Autos are easy to convert to FWD, just pull the fuse in the hold in the engine compartment, that turns the AWD auto tranny to FWD only. Note that is only a temp fix to limp home, should not be used long term. The easiest way is to get a FWD tranny and remove the driveline copmpletely.

Edit: also has anyone tried to convert to fwd by takeing out the drive shaft and figureing a way to keep the yolk in?

leave the portion of the driveline connected to the transmission in place to keep the rear extension housing sealed. or get a FWD transmission. if it's for gas mileage reasons, you won't notice any difference, i've done it in both manual trans and auto trans...not for gas mileage purposes but i watch my mileage consistently and no difference running an AWD trans in FWD.

 

otherwise, just leave the driveshaft in place and you're golden.

Yeah, I was just wondering if it had been done. oh and BTW, the fuse trick dosen't make it full FWD, it reduces the output to 90/10 F/R IIRC. hense it being for limp, you can still damage the center diff if you drive around on it like that with say, a smaller rear wheel. the reason i ask is I have cheap tires and I flog my car alot, and air pressure is hard to keep constant. I fear this could have led to the wear on my axle.

 

Also, what are the odds i can get just a CV joint and reuse the axle? that would make things cheaper.

Yeah, I was just wondering if it had been done. oh and BTW, the fuse trick dosen't make it full FWD, it reduces the output to 90/10 F/R IIRC. hense it being for limp, you can still damage the center diff if you drive around on it like that with say, a smaller rear wheel. the reason i ask is I have cheap tires and I flog my car alot, and air pressure is hard to keep constant. I fear this could have led to the wear on my axle.

 

Also, what are the odds i can get just a CV joint and reuse the axle? that would make things cheaper.

Call NAPA for a price on a re-man, tjhat's where I get mine.

I can't tell you what I paid, but I got mine with a jobber discount........

Lifetime warranty, certainly better than trying to change just the CV.

 

swi66

Called NAPA and Advance. the prices i was quoted were 68 at NAPA and 59 at Advance but i forgot to specificly request reman so i think i will swing by both places before i buy one.

Called NAPA and Advance. the prices i was quoted were 68 at NAPA and 59 at Advance but i forgot to specificly request reman so i think i will swing by both places before i buy one.

that is about the right price for a re-man...........and I think it's pretty fair.

Try calling a dealer for a price and you will see.

I go with NAPA as I have never had a problem from them.

 

The CV joint alone will probably go for at least $30, and then you would have to change it. Best to get the re-man.

 

swi66

i just got a lifetime warr. axle at advance for 59 bucks and it actually looked like new joints on the one i got.

Well, I picked up a used axle from a local jy for $40, but the shop installing it claims the only problem is the "input shaft", which I am assumeing means the stub shaft, broke off and he claims the transmission has to be taken out to fix it. now let me say, I trust this guy in general but i get the feeling he might not know what he is talking about. I was under the impression the stub shaft could easily be removed from outside. I am pretty sure the pinion is ok as varying the throttle would change the speedo reading which reads off the front diff so that is turning. also I am pretty sure the outer CV is broken beacuse I could roll the car back and fourth and the axle shaft didn't turn. anyone have any illistrations or pisc on how the axle mates to the diff on the 4EAT?

ok, update. Axle was not broken, the stub shaft came out and is fine. it seems the spring clip must have broken and allowed the stub shaft to come loose. Ordered 2 clips from Subaru but they won't be in ti'll next week. I am going to drain the diff and see if I can find the clip in there. anywhere else I can get the clip? the local JY didn't even know you could pull the stub shaft out. and what are the odds the clip will cause problems in the diff?

very odd, never heard of that happening before. if you can find someone willing to pull the stub out you can get a used stub clip. probably won't do that on a good trans but you can try. you can tell them you'll bring back one when you get the new ones in if you're in a time squeeze!

Can you go fishing with a magnet to try and find that clip, or its pieces?

well, the first thing i might try is driveing the roll pin out of the axle and seeing if I can pop the shaft back in, the shop i went knows nothing about subie trannies so they assumed it used a C clip to hold the shaft in. I am not sure how hard they tried to put the shaft in the clip COULD still be in the right place in the tranny. if that dosent work i will try to drain the diff and see if I can't get the clip or whatevers left of it out. I doubt a HW or even auto parts store would have the exact right clip and it really needs to be right.

Well, on my way to work today my car started to shudder a bit and the tranny was slipping, after a little pokeing around I found the left front axle was borked. Made it to work keeping it below 35 in RWD (auto tranny so hopefully i didn't burn up the clutch packs) anyone know where I can get a cheap axle, i'll try the local JY but i was hopeing to find a cheap reman for about $75.00.

 

Edit: also has anyone tried to convert to fwd by takeing out the drive shaft and figureing a way to keep the yolk in?

 

I've used these guys for axles about 5 times;

http://www.discountape.com/index.htm

 

but they are local to me. Its been a while, but they used to install re-man axles for $150 total. I once even had them do it while i waited (45minutes). Considering just the outer joint and boot at the time was $70-$80 or so I thought it was a bargain.

 

ymmv

 

Carl

What's the best method for loosening and tightening the axle nut?

well, one good thing came of this, while trying to get the axle out I discovered I have a balljoint going out.

What's the best method for loosening and tightening the axle nut? Yesterday 12:30 PM

 

 

A breaker bar with appropriate socket and a piece of pipe to loosen. A 1/2" drive torque wrench to tighten.

A breaker bar with appropriate socket and a piece of pipe to loosen. A 1/2" drive torque wrench to tighten.

 

How do you keep the axle from turning? I don't want to rely on putting it in "park" - I don't want to break anything.

How do you keep the axle from turning? I don't want to rely on putting it in "park" - I don't want to break anything.

 

Air impact gun works well.

 

If you don't have one, have someone put their foot on the brake, while you use the breaker bar.

 

swi66

...have someone put their foot on the brake, while you use the breaker bar.

 

Good plan - thanks very much!