Tbird Man Posted April 6, 2006 Share Posted April 6, 2006 Well finally got the axle pulled fully out of the transmission for more info on this see my previous post "Cheapest place for '95 impreza axles" . the spring clip is fortunately still on the stub shaft so no fishing in the diffcase for it. unfortunately it is slightly flattened on one side so I am gonna try turning it around and putting it back in. my question is is there some bigger problem that could have caused this or can the clip just wear out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robm Posted April 7, 2006 Share Posted April 7, 2006 Is this clip a round wire type clip? If so, this is the "normal" method other manufacturers use to keep the axles in the tranny. Subaru is weird (but better), as they use the splined stub shaft and roll pin. I have had trouble getting these things out on Corollas, where they were SUPPOSED to come out. I never did get one out, had to disassemble the axle in place on the car to replace the boot. Good thing their axles seem to run without boots longer than a Subaru's. It would be impossible to change. As long as you can get it to stay on the shaft, and still go into the tranny, it should be fine. There isn't usually much axial pull on these anyway. Although you say this one is worn? Perhaps your previous problem battered it half to death? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tbird Man Posted April 7, 2006 Author Share Posted April 7, 2006 Well...I am getting about fed up with this car. got the axle back in but when i went to replace the balljoint the head of the bolt in the hub broke off:banghead: . I tried an easy out but that did nothing. then I tried drilling through it and that didn't help, now it looks like I may need to just get a new hub or take the old one to a machine shop to get the remains of the bolt, and tip of the easy out that broke off, out.another option would be to drill the hole out more and fitting a longer bolt through with a nut on the backside and of course a lock washer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frag Posted April 7, 2006 Share Posted April 7, 2006 Well...I am getting about fed up with this car. got the axle back in but when i went to replace the balljoint the head of the bolt in the hub broke off:banghead: . I tried an easy out but that did nothing. then I tried drilling through it and that didn't help, now it looks like I may need to just get a new hub or take the old one to a machine shop to get the remains of the bolt, and tip of the easy out that broke off, out.another option would be to drill the hole out more and fitting a longer bolt through with a nut on the backside and of course a lock washer. I did exactly that on a Loyale and on the left side of my Brighton. Works very well. And much easier to remove the next time. Be sure to get a self locking nut. I put the same torque on it as on the original bolt and it still holds after more than three years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted April 7, 2006 Share Posted April 7, 2006 crack, that sucks. which bolt sheared off? a machine shop can get it out for you. probably $40 unfortunately and you can probably pick up a used hub for that as well if you wanted. let us know which bolt. EZouts suck. i no longer use them. if there's any stud sticking out, i weld a nut to the top, it has worked every time. but requires something sticking out which you don't always have. if you can get the EZ POS out of the way then try a left-handed drill bit. they drill but once you get down far enough typically they will back the bolt out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tbird Man Posted April 8, 2006 Author Share Posted April 8, 2006 I HATE EASYOUTS!!!!! the tip of this thing is absolutly STUCK in there. I drilled out the back side and tried to punch the tip out from behind, no dice. bent/ruined 3 drill bits (useing them as a punch) and it didn't budge, we're gonna try to get a longer punch but i am not holding my breath. I may try to get a JY hub, but the bolts holding the strut on are rusted locked, and they were off only about 6mo ago...damn salt. no way can I drill through the easy out so a new hub may be the only recourse. otherwise a machine shop would likely have to plasma cut the easy out out. and all this beacuse of an .80c spring clip.................... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frag Posted April 9, 2006 Share Posted April 9, 2006 I HATE EASYOUTS!!!!! the tip of this thing is absolutly STUCK in there. I drilled out the back side and tried to punch the tip out from behind, no dice. bent/ruined 3 drill bits (useing them as a punch) and it didn't budge, we're gonna try to get a longer punch but i am not holding my breath. I may try to get a JY hub, but the bolts holding the strut on are rusted locked, and they were off only about 6mo ago...damn salt. no way can I drill through the easy out so a new hub may be the only recourse. otherwise a machine shop would likely have to plasma cut the easy out out. and all this beacuse of an .80c spring clip.................... If you drilled out all of the thread portion (back side), the only thing that's left is the bolts smooth shank. There is no way this is not going to come out if you use a sturdier punch and heat the part of the nuckle the pinch bolt goes thru. Use lots of penetrating oil first. My 2 cents. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tbird Man Posted April 9, 2006 Author Share Posted April 9, 2006 Well looks like a new hub for me. it seems the easy out expanded the rusted shank and pulled a chinese finger trap effect. while trying to punch it out the whole peice that holds the shank and a sizeable chunk of the ball joint hole broke off. that was with penetrateing oil and we were gonna try heat if that didn't work but looking at it I doubt it would work, the easy out acted like the temporary plumbing plugs they use when pressure testing plumbing. I am looking now for a new hub so wish me luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frag Posted April 9, 2006 Share Posted April 9, 2006 That's too bad! Hope you find a good used one cheap. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tbird Man Posted April 9, 2006 Author Share Posted April 9, 2006 I am getting tired of this car, now I can't get the axle nut off....i have tried everything short of a cheater bar. dose it maybe have a left hand thread? this is just one thing after another. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frag Posted April 10, 2006 Share Posted April 10, 2006 I am getting tired of this car, now I can't get the axle nut off....i have tried everything short of a cheater bar. dose it maybe have a left hand thread? this is just one thing after another. No left hand thread. Takes an heafty breaker bar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted April 10, 2006 Share Posted April 10, 2006 axle nuts can be very tight. i bought 3/4" drive set just because of axle nuts. i've broke 3 1/2" sockets and breaker bars on axle nuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tbird Man Posted April 10, 2006 Author Share Posted April 10, 2006 Well, after trying everything we're just gonna have to take it to a local mech. he has a hevy duty impact gun (he changes tires and dose some work on big trucks) that should loosen it. also got a hub/rotor/caliper assy. for $50.00. edit: like I said, we tried a 2ft breaker bar and neither I nor my dad could budge it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted April 10, 2006 Share Posted April 10, 2006 2 ft, that's it? just kidding, but i use longer. the 2 footers still require some stank. get it horizontal and jump on it usually will break it free. at least taking to the garage will save your tools. axle nuts have ended the lives of many tools. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robm Posted April 10, 2006 Share Posted April 10, 2006 Breaker bar and 3 foot pipe on the handle. Lift on it, don't push down. Your legs can exert more force than your weight. Jumping on it adds impact, which might help, but you lose control. Breaker bar and a hammer? Use antisieze to reassemble, and don't torque it much past specification, just to spec, than a bit further to align the cotter pit hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tbird Man Posted April 10, 2006 Author Share Posted April 10, 2006 Yeah, it was a 1/2in breaker bar and the socket wasent a perfect fit so I didn't want to break the tool or strip the nut. and also there is no cotter pin on it, it has a flange around the nut that you bend in. I tried to bend it back but ended up grinding it off so i will probibly need a new nut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robm Posted April 10, 2006 Share Posted April 10, 2006 Good tools are required. "A poor workman blames his tools", but craftsmen use only the best. A large socket might run you $10, but that will only buy about 10 minutes of a mechanic's time. Pays for itself the first time you use it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookie Posted April 10, 2006 Share Posted April 10, 2006 you would not have a hope of removing that nut with that outfit. Here in CA with no rust at all I had to use a four foot cheater, and yes Craftsman will take back a broken socket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gnuman Posted April 10, 2006 Share Posted April 10, 2006 32mm impact socket (Craftsman is recomended), 3 ft breaker bar, and three more feet of cheater bar. Soak it in penetrating oil and bang on it for a bit to get the oil down in the threads, then pull up on the cheater bar (keep your head out of the way of the bar in case it lets loose "suddenly"). Also keep your back as straight as possable, and make sure your hands will not hit anything when the nut lets loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tbird Man Posted April 11, 2006 Author Share Posted April 11, 2006 I HATE SALT! ok, so we decided we can't really afford to futz around with it ourselfs any longer, so we are going to get it towed to a shop. Only problem is the shop that is towing it dosen't have a rollback, so i try to disconnect the driveshaft but the only 12mm wrench I have is a tubeing wrench and that is too flexable and tries to slip. these rusted bolts are REALLY upsetting me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjo Posted April 11, 2006 Share Posted April 11, 2006 here's what you do to get that nut off. you get in your car, your drive to the local shop and be like 'hey, i just broke like 5 breaker bars, can you loosen this for me? it's a 32mm nut' then the guy says, sure drive it over to the door, he opens the door, comes out w/ his good ol 800ft-lb impact gun, breaks it off, puts it back on a little looser than it was before, and away you go, if they're nice they'll do it for free Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tbird Man Posted April 11, 2006 Author Share Posted April 11, 2006 1. I cannot drive it as is, the hub is borken 2. the axle nut is no longer the problem, it is the bolts holding on the driveshaft. I am gonna try to just air-chisle them off and have it done with. edit: scratch that the air chisle did nothing......I really wish SOMETHING on this damn car would go right........this is really stressing me out. all this beacuse of a (*&$#%$^ 80c spring clip................................. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gnuman Posted April 11, 2006 Share Posted April 11, 2006 OK, T-Bird, you need to walk away from the car for a bit. Have a few beers , calm down, and attack it fresh and rested. Damn but I wish I were in an area close to you right now. How about it guys? Anyone in NC close to this guy? If not, go on down to the Sears store, get a 12mm 6pt box wrench, and thake this and a hammer to the driveshaft nuts. The bolts hold in place against keepers in the front, the nuts are to the rear. Some penetrating oil will help to loosten them as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tbird Man Posted April 12, 2006 Author Share Posted April 12, 2006 Well, after a little more "persuasion" with the air chisle the nuts came off. no biggie bolts are ok so new nuts is all I need. the car is at the shop now so I should have it back soon. oh and FYI, Boone is a small town, no SEARS, closest thing is "S"LOWS or Advance. Though I do think I will take the whole "beer" thing to heart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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