Ok, IM not going to fool around with camber plates anymore, its made me sick. That and I dont ahve the resources to just fab them up. The whole bearing deal is got me and there are no camber plates around for me to compare with, so im halting that project for now.

 

Ok, lets talk about the lower control arm....lets move it out 5MM.

 

How? Weld some steel over the stock mounting/bolting place, and drill a new hole 5MM out.

 

Opinions please.

thats how I thought about getting some. how much would that give us? and what about the axles would they hold up under the stress of this I was thing about buliding a susp. lift like that too with new axles and stuff but that was for my hatch

We use camber Plates on the strut tower on mustangs.Shouldn't be to hard.Haven't gotten that far on a subby yet.Just bought a Brat.I'm switching it over to an ea82 from an ea81.

I don't think the axles would have any problem being pulled out a little, It takes a good amount of power to snap those axles, and they are meant to pull in and out as the suspension moves. wouldn't it take more than 5mm to have much effect though?

I don't know just thought I'd bring it up to see

I just ran a little math, if the strut length is 24" from seat to ball joint (that's a guess, but should be fairly close) then it will take 0.419" (10.6mm) for one degree camber change, that true of either top or bottom of the strut. Note: this is only true for small changes in angle (3 deg or so), after that the ratio changes quickly. Hope that helps.

 

Gary

I think that the axle has plenty of room in the Inner CV joint to be pulled some. Since I will be lowering the RX, AND doing the camber change with the bottom...we'll see what it can take.

 

Any more opinions/ideas...? I welcome all!

I've given this consideration...I was a front end tech years ago. On some of the older American cars there was a slot in the cross member with a cam plate. This would take some fab work to get a slot in the crossmember, it would need to be the right size, too big would be bad. It's possible that one of the old cam/bolt setups would work on a Soob without modification (to the cam/bolt) so it would just be a matter of getting the slot done and something for the cam to work against. The simpler method would be just welding plates over the cross member and drilling new holes. This would offer no adjustment so it would need to be done carefully. This would require a longer bolt, of course.

Is modifying the upper strut mount point not an option? Seems to me you could fab up a pretty simple base plate/sliding plate assembly, but it would require some cutting and welding. Just a thought.

 

Gary

two words 'leading rod' by moving the lower control arm out you'll be shifting the leading rod out of alignment and the steel plate that is welded to the rod on the bushing end might touch the bracket that the leading rod assemble mounts to the car body with, also it will cause more toe-in which our cars really don't need. However as you are lowering the car it might off set the toe-in...I really dunno if I'd mess with the leading rod angle as it might just result in overlyworn bushings, rubbing of said steel plate and possible bending of the rod the next really big hole you get caught in

 

or it might not ;-) it might work...

All_talk: I have thought of this. Others have done it, But I am not willing to slot the actualy towers, and i ahve worked on adjsutable and non-adjustable camber plates with no success.

I haven't actually calculated it but I would think you could change the camber at the lower point with a lot less movement than you would need at the top of the strut. Has anybody figured that out? Also, as poorman, said, you would be changing the angle of the strut bar, this was never a issue on older fords for example that used a strut bar. I don't know if the one on the Soob is adjustable but probably not. The struts could probably be made adjustable, too. The angle probably wouldn't change enough to be a problem but it would affect the caster angle too. Toe-in is adjustable so a non-issue.

 

Top plates are available for impreza's, right? I wonder if they could be re-shaped and re-drilled for EA81/82 applications?

top plates for impreza are $$$$ lol

and toe is adjustable but now that you've altered the camber what is the correct toe to adjust it to?

Most cars with driven front wheels require roughly 0' to 1/4" of toe out regardles of camber and caster.

 

Consider we are only talking about changing the camber about 1 degree, some cars that have adjustable camber have acceptable adjustment ranges greater than this.

I am going for 2.5 negatice camber. I am looking into this NASA roadcourse stuff for the RX right now. Rally'in seems too expensive right now.

That sounds like a lot of neg camber.

 

Any of the interior guts for sale?

Sounds liek alot, yes...but thats what I want for now. lol

 

interior, for sale? possibly...what do you need?