Hey all,

Im thinking of getting rid of my ASV valves just to simplify the mess under my hood and to keep the carb cleaner longer. I know there is a quarter trick to doing this but i want to pull the whole thing including the piping and the silencer. Anyone have any pictures or how to's to doing this? Im not sure where the quarter is supposed to go. Is this around the area at the manifold? And how rotted on will that pipe be around the manifold. My cars only got 62,000 on it but it still seems pretty rusty. This is going to be a pain im thinking.

anyone?

They usually come off pretty easy. BIG vise grips work well. Whenever I pull an engine I rip that stuff off. Just cut the pipe going to the spacer under the head, pull the threaded pipe end off, and weld it up making it a plug. I generally select a washer about the same size as the hole in the fitting, and weld that in and then fill the center of the washer with weld too. If you don't have a welder, go to your local nut/bolt house and find a plug the right size - it's some large metric thread I'm sure.

 

The other method is to remove the spacers (need a star bit, or a lot of grinding, swearing, ect - and use an EA82 y-pipe.

 

GD

The quarter goes between the air piping and the heads. You can remove the asv piping, cut it off near the flange, and then tighten the flanges back on, with a quarter to plug the hole.

 

For me, I just made up some covers out of some 3/16" plate I had laying around the shop.

The ports are different on EA81 vs. EA82. EA81 is screw on - same as the valve end, and EA82 is bolt on - like the EA82's EGR port on the manifold.

 

GD

step one: cut the asv tubes near the exhuast manifold,as close as you dare with a sawsall

Step two:remove threaded inserts from exhausr manifold

Step three: remove tubing you cut

step four: find two nickels

step 5: use a punch and a hammer to punch nickle into opening in insert

step 6:install your new plugs

 

 

the cheapest by far. only costs 10 cents as opposed to 50.and welding even if you do it you still have gas and wire that needs to be bought....

uberoo..what are the plugs you talk of in step 6? Up to the point i follow. Thanks for the help so far. My car blew the exhaust manifold gaskets again so this time i bought the genuine subaru ones so that i dont have to deal with this BS anymore. This is the third time ive had to deal with it.

the inserts that you punch the nickle in,those are your new plugs.just so that we are clear.the inserts are the threaded things that you need a 1 1/8" wrench to get off.if you punched the nickles in far enough it will be pretty leakproof.

oh ok thanks i got you now. I just went and pulled the manifold gaskets. The new ones i have arnt the right ones go figure. And as for the ASV system its pretty rusty under there and they are working the way they should so i think i'll just leave them alone and avoid the headach of trying to get rid of them even though i still kinda want to. Maybe another time. Thank you everyone for your great advice.

well another time has come. Im pulling my exhaust and wish to rid my car of this ASV system. Do you guys think it will still pass emissions without it? All it seems to be doing now is craping up my carb with soot. thanks

Should be fine, yeah. I've passed without it.

 

GD

Excellent thread. I just tightened up some probs due to the asv head- including a cam casing that unscrewed itself from the head and a pressure relief bolt on same casing that unscrewed entirely, leaving me with <5 psi oil pressure at an idle and a really smacking valve. I was going to scrap the head entirely, for one of my spfi ones, possibly shaved .040 and a copper gasket this time to really get it thumping.As there is no spacer making it a different exhaust port. It is cast as part of the head and leaves the regular ea82 y-pipe you could find on a spfi soob leaning crooked. No getting out of that one....be it the pipe was bent by somebody to almost fit perfectly, I may call the asv head good enough and hack like previous posts.I have no cruds or anomolies yet, the engine is strong and clean, now wouild be a great time to stop that stuff.

If the hacks are that easy, I will just prevent it from working like the ingenuities mentioned.

If you reading this GD I pm'ed you.If I offended, I publicly apologize.

This was mentioned in another thread, which I just cant remember which right now, but there are "spacer blocks" that exist out there that will allow you to remove the ASV system completely.

 

My new engine from CCR includes a pair of these.

 

Would be much cleaner, and possibly easier to do, but would cost $35(?) instead of 0.50+wire+gas.

 

Just a thought.

This was mentioned in another thread, which I just cant remember which right now, but there are "spacer blocks" that exist out there that will allow you to remove the ASV system completely.

 

They are hard to find - they came on 83 and 84 california feedback carb models, and only on one side.

 

GD

well ok both sides of this pipe are really hard to get off. I want to dissable these valves. Could i just pull the vacuum line going to them so they dont open..or would there be bad consequences to doing that? I tried to take them off and the manifold and that was a no go. I tried to get them off at the valve itself and that didnt work either.

well ok both sides of this pipe are really hard to get off. I want to dissable these valves. Could i just pull the vacuum line going to them so they dont open..or would there be bad consequences to doing that? I tried to take them off and the manifold and that was a no go. I tried to get them off at the valve itself and that didnt work either.

it is impossible to be bored today with this place existing (time and time again)

luckily mine was loose (20 years old and loose:confused: ) . You have asv as plural, would love some photos. I found the asv also a short for #4 firing, top and bottom of head.. on a slightly different note, I am assuming there is unusually high compression aiding in that problem ,as the plugs glowed in the dark when I first got this car. I only had 1 asv, on an ea82 and posted a page. the car is cured entirely, except for carb cleaning. I hope you can remove it.

 

http://93loyale.com/cem.html

it is impossible to be bored today with this place existing (time and time again)

luckily mine was loose (20 years old and loose:confused: ) . You have asv as plural, would love some photos. I found the asv also a short for #4 firing, top and bottom of head.. on a slightly different note, I am assuming there is unusually high compression aiding in that problem ,as the plugs glowed in the dark when I first got this car. I only had 1 asv, on an ea82 and posted a page. the car is cured entirely, except for carb cleaning. I hope you can remove it.

 

Once again you stuff both feet in your mouth. This is EA81 land - it's entirely different. Please take your word-salad elsewhere.

 

Hatchsub: Yes, pulling the vacuum line is sufficient if they are so equipped. They will simply not function. Make sure to remove all the hoses and the plastic "silencers" from the valve to the air-box so that if the reed valve inside the housing ever fails you won't suck melted plastic into your carb (been there - not cool).

 

It would be better though to invest in a LARGE pair of vice grips and unscrew the big tube at the spacer under the head. Then use either a pipe plug in there, or make a plug by welding the coller up from the old fresh air supply pipe. You MUST leave the spacer or your exhaust will not reach, and will hit on the cross-member, or be at a bad angle and will strip the bolts out of the heads. Plus the spacers provide an excelent solid steel base to tap over to 7/16x20 and install some stainless steel studs.

 

GD

Ok sounds like a plan. I tried down at the manifold and it wouldnt come off because of the rust. Would it work better if i was able to undo the pipe at the valve it self..stuff a quarter in the valve and tighten down the pipe again?

Ok sounds like a plan. I tried down at the manifold and it wouldnt come off because of the rust. Would it work better if i was able to undo the pipe at the valve it self..stuff a quarter in the valve and tighten down the pipe again?

 

That would work too. If I couldn't get the thing off at the manifold, I would just cut the pipe leaving about 1" of it, then flatten the pipe and weld it closed. Gets the "ugly" out of your bay. That's just asthetics tho.

 

GD