The solenoid may be on the left side of the throttle body. Be very careful when you are working on them. They break very easily with any side torque on them. Here is a link from DaveT that may help you find it.

 

http://home.comcast.net/~davidtief/solenoid.html

To the left of the throttle body, there are TWO solinoids identical in appearence. One is closer to the T.B. than the other but both are within 3" of each other. Which one????

To the left of the throttle body, there are TWO solinoids identical in appearence. One is closer to the T.B. than the other but both are within 3" of each other. Which one????

 

Took a shot at it a choose the closest one to the TB. I did as said above post and still have the "check engine" light on. Time for more diagnosis

Took a shot at it a choose the closest one to the TB. I did as said above post and still have the "check engine" light on. Time for more diagnosis

 

 

UPDATE: 3 SLOW BLINKS AND 5 FAST BLINKS STILL Purge control solinoid or circuit...................

After reviewing a previous post on solinoid going to canister, I reinstalled the one I had bypassed. Double checked the blink rate and it had'nt changed. OK, now I removed and bypassed the other solinoid. THIS ONE goes to the canister. After bypassing my CHECK ENGINE light went out. BUT, dont you like BUTS, But the blink rate when checked is still saying 35 ( 3 slow 5 fast)? I know as far as light being out for check engine I would pass inspection BUT, will I pass emissions if everything else is working? And that solinoid only being bypassed make me fail emissions? I do plan to replace but wonder what I'm pumping out the tailpipe till I do.

If your check engine light is out, you are good to go. With just the ignition in the on position you should be back at the 7 rapid flashes. Are you plugging in any of the connectors when reading the code? You could be reading stored codes and not the current state. I don't see how the purge cannister can affect any emission testing.

 

-Doug

Engine running , no connectors conected NO Check Engine light , No Blinking light

 

WHITE connectors conected, key to run position, still 3 slow followed by 5 fast blinks check engine light on

 

IS there a way to "reset" the stored codes?

The 35 code will go away as soon as the ECU sees a normal current in the circuit. It appears the ECU still isn't happy with what has been done for some reason.

I've read in another post that disconnecting the battery for short time would reset the ecu? Do you think that might help?

There is a way to clear stored codes, but I don't remember it so you'll have to search. I reset the ecu by disconnecting the battery and turning the headlights on for a few minutes to drain any residual charges.

 

-Doug

If you are trying to clear the 35 error code and the ECU isn't happy with the circuit condition it will still come back in. As soon as the ECU sees the right circuit condition it will stop the error. There is no delay in the reset.

Is the toyota valve less expensive than the Subaru ($177 new)

 

Go to a junkyard where they let you pick parts off cars. Any that look like the ones in my web site will work. They maight charge $5-10.00.

 

Note new URL:

http://home.comcast.net/~davidtief/solenoid.html

Create one of these to see if there is really a problem with the EGR solenoid:

You can still use the plug for a Toyota solenoid if you find out the solenoid is the problem. I wouldn't throw money at it until you verify what's wrong first, though. There could be something wrong with the wiring.