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Heat/AC only works on high setting

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I recently purchased a 98 Forester (I'll keep my fingers crossed that the gasket won't blow...). The only noticeable problem is that the heater/AC fan only operates when turned to the '4' (highest) setting.

 

Do you think this is a problem with the fan switch, the blower motor, or something else? Does anyone have any experience fixing this problem?

 

Thanks!!

...with my 98 Nissan Frontier pickup. The blower would only work on the highest setting. I tested, and found the blower solenoid to be bad. The part was $35 and I did the labor myself. I'm not sure how hard it is to get to on a Forester, but my truck was pretty easy. Only had to take out the glove box and remove a few screws.

My parents had the same problem with their 94 Astro. My Dad replaced a sort of "resistor pack" that controlled the motor speed. After that, it worked fine. Methinks you might have to get a Haynes Manual and check out the electrical schematics section, if you are knowledgeable in such an area :D Hope this helps out.

 

ScoobySchmitty:banana:

Do a search here for Heater or resistor or blower fan. There is some info on that issue. IIRC - the fan only working on high indicates a blown resistor. On a Legacy its easy to get at, just remove the glove box door and there it is. I think there are even pics of it on the thread. Unfortunately I tried a search but couldn't find anything! Most peculiar, it seems as though I could only search the last month's posts.

The blower resisitor has failed. When you go to speed 4 it by-passes the resistor. Yet the blower resistor failed for a reason. This is usually caused by a failing heater blower motor drawing too many amps. I would replace the resistor and the blower motor with oe parts. You could try just the resistor, yet don't be surprised if it fails again within a month or so. Good luck

but my truck's blower resistor (I think I mispoke/typed earlier when I said solenoid) has been good for almost 9 months after replacement. To qualify that, it is NOT a Subaru. Just a thought.

Originally posted by drewjohnson

but my truck's blower resistor (I think I mispoke/typed earlier when I said solenoid) has been good for almost 9 months after replacement. To qualify that, it is NOT a Subaru. Just a thought.

 

You are correct it is not a Subaru. Nissan blower resistors fail often. They do not have as many problems with blower motors as Subaru does. If one wants to be really cheap it is possible to remove the resistor and solder it back together. If it fails again then replace the blower motor.

What would you need to solder to get that to work? It would be good to know since I have a 92 Legacy wagon. Just in case for future failure??

Is it possible you're Forester has the cabin filter option and reduced airflow through clogged filters has increased the load on the fan?

  • Author

Wow, thanks for all the advice everyone! It definitely sounds like the resistor pack; I'll probably try to change just that first, and if it fails again I'll replace the whole thing. Now if only there was a Chilton's or Haynes manual for the Forester, I'd feel a whole lot more comfortable attacking this repair...

 

Incidentally, is the resistor pack a part of the blower motor? For example, if I were to replace the whole blower motor would this take care of the resistor problem as well, or am I looking at two distinct parts?

If things have'nt changed since the Loyale the resistors pack is distinct from the motor and is right in the intake duct behind the glove box. Easy to find. Again, if things have not changed, the resistors are made of naked wires (each one in a loop) becoming very hot and often failing because they come in contact with debris (dry leaves,e tc.) coming thru the intake vents. If things are still like I say, then it's imperative that you clean the intake tube before replacing the pack.

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