I had the front-end grinding thing going on with my 90 Loyal 2wd wagon. My daughter was driving it and didn't let me know about it until it was too late. Now when you put it in drive, the axles turn but the wheels don't.

 

Can anyone give me an idea as to what I will need to replace? I'm too cheap to hire a mech to do the work.

Thanks in advance,

Todd

you're gonna need an axle and a hub, along with bearings probably on the side thats affected. shouldn't be too bad, although when you're done make sure that the 36mm nut on the end of the axle is good and tight, which could have been one of the causes of a stripped hub.

 

You can probably go junkyard on the hub, for all the parts actually, but it wouldn't hurt to have a "new" axle for the peace of mind.

Thanks! Will I need any special tools? I thought I read in my manual that I would need like a puller or something. (I sound real smart don't I?)

 

 

you're gonna need an axle and a hub, along with bearings probably on the side thats affected. shouldn't be too bad, although when you're done make sure that the 36mm nut on the end of the axle is good and tight, which could have been one of the causes of a stripped hub.

 

You can probably go junkyard on the hub, for all the parts actually, but it wouldn't hurt to have a "new" axle for the peace of mind.

Thanks! Will I need any special tools? I thought I read in my manual that I would need like a puller or something. (I sound real smart don't I?)

Do not worry!

You sound just all right!

Yes, you will need a puller to disconnet the tie rod end. You will also need a punch to drive a spring ping from the DOJ to pull the axle from the transmission. That is about it. Regular wrenches 12, 14, 17 will of course be handy.

 

Sam

Ok, any specific puller?

 

Do not worry!

You sound just all right!

Yes, you will need a puller to disconnet the tie rod end. You will also need a punch to drive a spring ping from the DOJ to pull the axle from the transmission. That is about it. Regular wrenches 12, 14, 17 will of course be handy.

 

Sam

Ok, any specific puller?

I guess any puller with two claws.

I use craftsman, but I do not know what part number it is.

When you ready to separate the joint, unscrew the nut only few turns. Do not remove it completelly. Then apply the puller. This trick I have learned from Haynes manual.

Good luck!

 

Sam

 

edit: you may rent puller from Autozone.

and a 36mm socket with a 1/2" breaker bar to get the axle nut off.

OR a large 36mm wrench from ACE Hardware. Its like 2 feet long. I love this thing for taking off those pesky axle nuts.

and a 36mm socket with a 1/2" breaker bar to get the axle nut off.

 

I prefer 3/4" breaker, the 1/2" i bent/broke to many on axlenuts.

Why will he need a puller if his axel and disc hub is shot?... cant he just smack the end of the axel with a hammer to beat it out of the Housing (use wood as softner)... it's ruined any way right?

 

 

or am I missing something.....

 

or is this a noob question?:-\

no special pullers needed. not even for the tie rod end.

 

as previously mentioned:

36mm socket/breaker bar

3/16th inch punch

12, 14 and 17mm sockets (for brake caliper etc.), 3/8ths is fine

heavy hammer (I like my 3lb mini-sledge)

3/8 socket extension, between 3 and 5-6" long

 

remove axle nut (put in park and set handbrake, should lock up the drivetrain enough to get it loose.)

seperate hub from rotor (4 14mm? bolts on front near lug studs)

pull hub off axle stub

pop ball joint out of steering knuckle (12mm pinch bolt, then some prying)

or, remove control arm to engine crossmember bolt and one of the 2 swaybar bolts

pound out springpin from inner axle joint (start from the divoted side)

pull inner axle joint out away from tranny (will need to swing the steering knuckle out too)

once the axle is seperated from the tranny, pound axle stub through the wheel bearings.

grease stub on 'new' axle (I LOVE junkyard axles!!!)

reinstall in reverse....

 

 

 

 

a little hijack here. if you do want to seperate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle. no puller is needed. simply loosen the nut (but do not remove, this way if you miss with the maul, you don't mess up the threads) then hit the steering knuckle on the end near the tie rod end hard with a maul. this will cause the hole in the knuckle to change shape enough that it will pup the tie rod end loose from the knuckle, and the nut can be removed.

As a follow-up... after much pain & suffering, I finally fixed this problem. Thanks for all who gave input. The hub was stripped out. I took one off my parts car and bought two new axles (probably didn't need to replace axles but heck, now they're new). Now it runs & drives!

 

 

no special pullers needed. not even for the tie rod end.

 

as previously mentioned:

36mm socket/breaker bar

3/16th inch punch

12, 14 and 17mm sockets (for brake caliper etc.), 3/8ths is fine

heavy hammer (I like my 3lb mini-sledge)

3/8 socket extension, between 3 and 5-6" long

 

remove axle nut (put in park and set handbrake, should lock up the drivetrain enough to get it loose.)

seperate hub from rotor (4 14mm? bolts on front near lug studs)

pull hub off axle stub

 

pop ball joint out of steering knuckle (12mm pinch bolt, then some prying)

or, remove control arm to engine crossmember bolt and one of the 2 swaybar bolts

pound out springpin from inner axle joint (start from the divoted side)

pull inner axle joint out away from tranny (will need to swing the steering knuckle out too)

once the axle is seperated from the tranny, pound axle stub through the wheel bearings.

grease stub on 'new' axle (I LOVE junkyard axles!!!)

reinstall in reverse....

 

 

 

 

a little hijack here. if you do want to seperate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle. no puller is needed. simply loosen the nut (but do not remove, this way if you miss with the maul, you don't mess up the threads) then hit the steering knuckle on the end near the tie rod end hard with a maul. this will cause the hole in the knuckle to change shape enough that it will pup the tie rod end loose from the knuckle, and the nut can be removed.

As a follow-up... after much pain & suffering, I finally fixed this problem. Thanks for all who gave input. The hub was stripped out. I took one off my parts car and bought two new axles (probably didn't need to replace axles but heck, now they're new). Now it runs & drives!

 

Cool! Also, It'd be best if you could drive a while (couple hundred miles, give or take) and re-tighten the axle nuts. They seem to take a while to move around to their 'final' position, so to prevent this happening again, it's best to re-torque them again later.

 

-Dave

I prefer 3/4" breaker, the 1/2" i bent/broke to many on axlenuts.

+1

I prefer a large 36mm hand wrench. The one I have is huge. About two feet long. I can get pleny of leverage on it.

Yeah, my Brat did this... the guy who sold it to me thought putting it in gear in 2WD and watching the end of the axel spin was the coolest trick evar!

 

A $23 hub later, the problem is fixed.... and the axel was fine btw.