how important is the engine stabilizer rod? also, since I lifted the car I can feel some mild but high frequency vibrations when I get to 60km/h. I don't think it's the wheels. I'm still running on stock wheels. any ideas what it might be?

Well, it helps keep the engine from moving when you give it gas and shift. Every time you do, the torque wants to twist the engine. It also keeps the fan from going into the radiator.

The vibes are from changing the dynamics of the suspension and driveline.

 

Everything has a different angle now with the lift in. Also, when you installed the lift, you most likely disconnected the driveline. Unless you marked it, it probably isnt in the same location is was before. You can try turning the shaft 180deg on the rear yoke to see if that helps some.

the vibration could easily be your u-joints. I had this problem, no noticable vibration pre-lift. lots of vibration after the lift. when I had the tranny out to do a clutch a few months later, I noticed that the ujoints were pretty much seized....replaced the driveline (thank goodness for parts cars!!), and it went away.

sorry, but I'm not sure I know what drive line is. do you mean driveshuft? if you do then no, I didn't disconnect it. and don't under stand why there should be any changes in angles. it's a body lift, it shouldn't change any angles.

when I think about it, the angles of the driveshuft do change becuase I used 2" blocks for the driveshuft and the gear, when the rest of the lift is 3". do you think this might be the problem?

sorry, but I'm not sure I know what drive line is. do you mean driveshuft? if you do then no, I didn't disconnect it. and don't under stand why there should be any changes in angles. it's a body lift, it shouldn't change any angles.

when I think about it, the angles of the driveshuft do change becuase I used 2" blocks for the driveshuft and the gear, when the rest of the lift is 3". do you think this might be the problem?

 

yes, we do mean driveshaft. first off, what lift are you running?

 

but yes, there's a little more angle on the driveshaft joints than there are stock. nothing a good ujoint can't handle, but if the joints on the way out. this'll kill it.

...there's a little more angle on the driveshaft joints than there are stock. nothing a good ujoint can't handle...

U-joints, like any mechanical part, gets a wear pattern after awhile. With the Subaru's IRS, the driveshaft angle remains almost constant (doesn't have to deal with rear axle going up and down), so the maximum deflection of the u-joint hasn't changed in a few 100000Km. Now it is asked to deflect a little more, and this *can* introduce issues.

 

I am not saying that I think that this is your problem, but it certainly might be.

U-joints, like any mechanical part, gets a wear pattern after awhile. With the Subaru's IRS, the driveshaft angle remains almost constant (doesn't have to deal with rear axle going up and down), so the maximum deflection of the u-joint hasn't changed in a few 100000Km. Now it is asked to deflect a little more, and this *can* introduce issues.

 

I am not saying that I think that this is your problem, but it certainly might be.

 

exactly! well put

I'm running 3" hi rise lift.

cheers guys

I'm running 3" hi rise lift.

cheers guys

 

byb?

YEAH check the tailshaft.likes been said it is now at a different angle as the box is tucked up by bout an inch.had a seized uni and you get a bit of vibe. pulled it and you couldn,t move it.seen a pic of your lift in and the rear sus crossmember had 2 blocks missing an the plate mounted on top instead of below could it be moving around as its only supported by one bolt.

YEAH check the tailshaft.likes been said it is now at a different angle as the box is tucked up by bout an inch.had a seized uni and you get a bit of vibe. pulled it and you couldn,t move it.seen a pic of your lift in and the rear sus crossmember had 2 blocks missing an the plate mounted on top instead of below could it be moving around as its only supported by one bolt.

the lift is not byb, it's: http://www.funonwheels.net/hirisesubaru/pages/home.htm

the plate should go on top according to the instructions and the block is not turning around. this is how I put it.

is there a way to fix the driveshuft or do I have to replace it?

non replacable uni,s just go to wreckers and look for a low km one.or a driveline shop can machine out and put in replacable uni's last time i priced it was about $400.interesting point about the plate can't say i,ve seen it done like that before i thought it needed the support from the 3 bolts.Got a mate who has a 2" hi rise kit and its just like the byb.

I just re-drilled the mount of the stabilizer rod about 1 cm rear to the original hole. it fitted perfectly.