binary visions Posted August 17, 2006 Share Posted August 17, 2006 Hey - I have a question about a clutch on a 98 Subaru Forester. Occasionally, it starts acting funny. The catch point seems to sink really close to the floor, and has a very narrow catch range. It also becomes very easy to push the clutch to the catch point - there's not as much resistance as there usually is. Once it hits that catch point, I feel resistance again but there is almost no resistance at all up until that point. This tends to happen after I've been in heavy traffic and using it a lot. It MAY happen more frequently on really hot days - it's possible that it's just a coincidence, but I noticed it happen a couple times much sooner than normal on some super hot days we've had. Only leaving the car alone for several hours causes the clutch to feel normal again. Any ideas as to what might be causing this? Is this symptomatic of my clutch needing replacement? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
binary visions Posted August 17, 2006 Author Share Posted August 17, 2006 Alrighty, I did some searching before I posted but apparently not enough. I came across this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=41393 Sounds like this may be my problem... Is this something I should take to a shop to get fixed? I can do things like brake pads/spark plugs/oil/etc., really basic repairs like that - this looks like something I shouldn't tackle. Any idea of the cost for something like this? A friend suggested the fluid might just be low - is it possible that's the only problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeinmd Posted August 17, 2006 Share Posted August 17, 2006 A long shot, but it really happened on my '99, causing similar symptoms -- the neoprene boot over the opening in the bell housing for the clutch actuation arm was dislodged and causing the arm to bind against the edge of the opening. Its right on top and easy to see. -- George Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
binary visions Posted August 17, 2006 Author Share Posted August 17, 2006 A long shot, but it really happened on my '99, causing similar symptoms -- the neoprene boot over the opening in the bell housing for the clutch actuation arm was dislodged and causing the arm to bind against the edge of the opening. Its right on top and easy to see. -- George Thanks George, I'll take a look at that. Sounds like that would be causing problems all the time, though - the clutch works normally most of the time, and these symptoms only crop up when I've been in heavy traffic for a long time, or possibly when it's unusually hot out. I'll check it out, though... I'd be happy if it were something that simple! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setright Posted August 17, 2006 Share Posted August 17, 2006 Time to "purge" the hydraulic system. Hot weather and slow moving traffic will heat the fluid and older fluid will boil and cause vapour locking. It's the same as with brakes, the fluid absorbs moisture from the air over time and finally gives up. I'll be a change of fluid will do the trick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
binary visions Posted August 17, 2006 Author Share Posted August 17, 2006 I checked the boot and no problems there. Setright, is this something that's easy to do at home? I'm going to be honest here, I don't really have much of a clue when it comes to this stuff, however, I'm fairly mechanically inclined, smart, and patient so I don't have any problem attempting something if I have a guide. I found a great guide to changing my brake pads (which I did this past weekend, and found it shockingly easy and exactly the same, on a larger scale, as doing it on my mountain bike ), complete with pictures. Anything like that floating around? Is it even worth it, or is it something a shop will do for a few bucks and I shouldn't bother? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hutch85 Posted August 18, 2006 Share Posted August 18, 2006 I have this same problem on my 02 leggy wagon everyone once in a while. I always solved it by playing with the spring on the pedal. Just look underneath where the pedals are and you will see the spring that works on the clutch pedal. Just playing with it seemed to fix it. I am mechanically inept so I have no idea what I am doing down there what what the spring does but it always works. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setright Posted August 18, 2006 Share Posted August 18, 2006 Okay, early morning here, but a quick review: Find a friend to help you. Locate the clutch fluid reservoir - looks like a small brake reservoir. Suck out as much as possible with a syringe, refill will fresh DOT4 brake fluid. Fill to the FULL mark. Wrap a cloth around the reservoir and over the fender. You DO NOT want to spill brake fluid on your paint. Find the clutch slave cylinder - top the gearbox acting on the fork. Somewhere close by, there'll be a bleed screw, 8mm or 10mm hex. Looks like a grease nipple. Attach a clear hose over the end and run that into a small bottle. Get your friend to sit in the car. Loosen the bleeder and have friend push and hold the clutch pedal down. Fluid should escape through the hose into the bottle. Close the bleeder - not very tight - and tell friend to release the pedal. Open bleeder, tell friend to push and hold clutch pedal down....repeat twice. Check the fluid level in the reservoir, top it off as needed. You're done when the fluid leaving the bleeder is the same colour and cleanliness of the fresh fluid you poured in at the other end. Tighten the bleeder. Don't force it, just use the torque in your wrist, not your whole arm. Hope that covers it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
binary visions Posted August 18, 2006 Author Share Posted August 18, 2006 Sounds, again, like bleeding the brakes on my bike - something I haven't tried on my Forester yet but am planning on. I think I can handle that. I'll poke around and find my slave cylinder and fluid reservoir tonight. Appreciate the help! hutch, I think that's just a return spring under there - at least, that's what I've been told :-p . Can't imagine what playing with it is doing, maybe it's just placebo in that getting out of your car, sticking your head under the dash and fussing with it is giving enough time for your clutch fluid to cool down? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setright Posted August 18, 2006 Share Posted August 18, 2006 The spring is there to reduce initial pedal pressure. It's not essential. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
binary visions Posted September 4, 2006 Author Share Posted September 4, 2006 Bump. The clutch fluid reservoir says "USE DOT 3 ONLY" on it. Can I use DOT4 without any issues? I only ask because I've got a container of DOT4 but would have to buy DOT3, and I'm a cheap bastard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Storydude1 Posted September 4, 2006 Share Posted September 4, 2006 Bump. The clutch fluid reservoir says "USE DOT 3 ONLY" on it. Can I use DOT4 without any issues? I only ask because I've got a container of DOT4 but would have to buy DOT3, and I'm a cheap bastard DOT 3 and DOT 4 are interchangable. DOT 5 however, is it's own animal. Use it, it'll be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted September 4, 2006 Share Posted September 4, 2006 actually the spring has other uses hor Noise vibration and harshness. the spring rate on that spring doesnt really assist. Removing or changing that sping can cause all sorts of annoying issues, and its not recomended that its removed (yes i know somone will say that they removes it etc etc etc). BLeed the system. Inspect the hose. If after bleeding you still have a problem, you may have a tired slave cylinder and or master cylinder. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
binary visions Posted September 10, 2006 Author Share Posted September 10, 2006 Okay, just replaced the DOT3 with DOT4, and let me tell you, the fluid was filthy. Absolutely filthy - cloudy with black sediment. After bleeding the system, everything feels awesome. The clutch, under normal circumstances and not regarding my initial problem, feels 100% better. Setright; I just want to mention that next time you give someone these instructions, mention that they'll need to pump the clutch 15-20 times in between bleeds. My clutch wouldn't come back up and my heart stopped briefly I scratched my head a bit, fiddled a bit, then took a few deep breaths, calmed down, and thought maybe it was like bleeding brakes and you needed to pump it. Sure enough, it worked! Thanks for the help, everyone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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