elmwood22 Posted August 23, 2006 Share Posted August 23, 2006 My wife and I bought our 99 Outback 2.5L DOHC with 28,000miles in 2003, it now has 86,000miles and we have not had one problem with it. I have been completing happy with our subaru. However, around 55,000 miles it starting to use oil, not burn it, but use it. :-\ Me being anal about everything, kept an eye on the dip stick as well as the under carrage for seeping/leaking oil. I have always washed the underside of my car, I figured this way I would know when something started to leak. I began to notice that the rear of the oil pan had oil on it as well as the components around it, but still no oil dripping on to the concrete. The other day I just noticed what looked to be like dried oil with dust/grime adhered from the right side of the timing belt cover on the bottom (this looking down at the engine). Is this a sign of cam seals seeping? Now with 86,000miles it has started to drip oil onto the concrete, in my eyes excessively and annoyingly. To give you an idea of consumption, I am usually 1/2-1 quart low when I change oil. Anyways, with the current mileage the vehicle will soon be ready for a timing belt, water pump, oil pump resealing and the other seals that are recommended with this procedure. (105K)????? I guess my question is, should I pull the engine (not an easy task for an individual that has never performed this) and take care of the entire task? Which would include the Rear main and oil seperator along with the timing belt, water pump,etc. Or should I just take care of the front end and watch the oil level closely, save money and have a transmission shop drop the tranny later to replace the rear main and oil seperator plate? I am not really looking forward on pulling an engine, whereas I feel a lot more comfortable working on the front engine, especially since you can perform the work with the engine mounted. Sorry this is so long guys, any advice would be much appreciated. ONE GRIPE WITH SOA- who the hell puts a plastic plate between an engine and transmission? IDIOTS. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmanaenk Posted August 23, 2006 Share Posted August 23, 2006 I'd either wait until it blows headgasket and change rear main/separator plate then. Or, if you decide to pull the engine - do headgaskets before they blow on you. I also have the rear leak, and since I have a stick-shift, I am waiting until my clutch is due for a change, keeping an eye on oil level. Mine leaks/burns about 1-1.5qt between oil changes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookie Posted August 23, 2006 Share Posted August 23, 2006 I agree with the idea of waiting until you need something elase back there. mine got everything when it got headgasts otherwise it would have wited until it needed a clutch. I also needed a clutch so that was a good time. A few years now with no leaks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted August 23, 2006 Share Posted August 23, 2006 Darn such fatalisitc atitude, if it isnt broke dont fix it. Preemptive HG surgery is silly, sonsideinrg only 10-15% of them have HG failures. This is an announace leak. Since your not hugely versed in removing the engine (its not that hard) i would wait until its time ofr the timing belt etc etc etc, unless the leak gets worse. If it does get worse, then do all the timing belt stuff at the same time you pull the engine. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elmwood22 Posted August 24, 2006 Author Share Posted August 24, 2006 Thanks everyone. I am not doing any preemptive HG replacement. I to follow the golden rule- "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." I will watch the oil leak closely, maybe it will close its self off. Who knows. Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted August 24, 2006 Share Posted August 24, 2006 thats it the oil seperater plate, or in my world, the plate thingy nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcspeer Posted August 24, 2006 Share Posted August 24, 2006 Another solution which a lot of people here dont care for is Gold Eagle engine stop leak or Barrs, I used Gold Eagle to stop my rear main seal from leaking when it had 100,000 miles on it and it never leaked again, I lost the engine at 288,000 miles because of a idle pully that came apart. Also I never had to change the cam seals after using this. It's to bad so many people are afraid of such a good product. As the seals get old they dry and shrink this product will gently cause them to expand to feel the gap. Thanks everyone. I am not doing any preemptive HG replacement. I to follow the golden rule- "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." I will watch the oil leak closely, maybe it will close its self off. Who knows. Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark-O-Back Posted August 25, 2006 Share Posted August 25, 2006 Don't forget about the PCV system. If it isn't working pressure builds due to normal blow-by and makes oil leaks worse. When I checked mine a while back I found the valve caked with hard black crap and the associated hose had a lot of build up too. This is easy and inexpensive maintenance Good luck. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted August 25, 2006 Share Posted August 25, 2006 sounds like you already got it down. don't pull the engine. pulling a motor is time consuming and buys you very little in your situation. just replace your timing belts and front end stuff like you said. if you're concerned about that leak i'd make certain it's the rear main or separator plate before removing an engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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