Well, here I am at a used car lot looking at a Legacy for my mom. I'm talking up Subaru and what a great car they are, when I walk back to my Impreza with the sales guy and my car is unloading power steering fluid by the boat load! How embarassing!

 

Anyway, it had a "slight occasional drip", but something changed in a hurry! It was running out of the passenger side boot. About a 1/2 pint came out. I filled up the pump and drove home. Now it won't leak!!!

 

Question... Am I in for a new rack? Are there seals that can be replaced?

 

It's a 95 Impreza L with 67K

 

Thanks much!

Todd

Good story...hehe it could have been worse, you could have been talking up Subaru and turned around and yours was on fire! Anyway, I didn't really see anything about replacing the seals, manual says something about how to address leaks from the flare nuts.

 

Was the wheel turned at all when it was leaking? Maybe there's some corrosion or something in that particular spot that it'll leak when in exactly that position.

 

edit:actually there is a good troubleshooting chart with diagrams in the manual. It looks like for your leak area it says 'leakage from surrounding of power cylinder or gearbox' - cause:damaged oil seal, solution-replace bad parts. Also says maybe it could be 'leakage from control valve of gearbox'? cause damaged packing or oil seal or damaged control valve? Anyways this chart has like 20 different possible leak locations shown...

Thanks for the info. Yes, the wheels were indeed turned fairly sharp to the right. No evidence today of continued leaking near that bad. I think you might have a point about a spot of corrosion.

 

I see a seal kit in the parts manual, but I'm wondering if the rack needs to come out to service it?

 

67K is pretty low mileage for this to fail/leak.

 

Todd

dont waste your time, replace the rack. i have not seen anyone rebuild or reseal a rack in about as long as i have seen anyone rebuild starters ps pumps or alts.

Thanks for the info. Yes, the wheels were indeed turned fairly sharp to the right. No evidence today of continued leaking near that bad. I think you might have a point about a spot of corrosion.

 

I see a seal kit in the parts manual, but I'm wondering if the rack needs to come out to service it?

 

67K is pretty low mileage for this to fail/leak.

 

Todd

 

67 K but the car is 13 years old. SUbarus with low mileage tend to have some issues, they love to be driven and not fans of low mileage.

 

Resealing a rack is NOT for the back yard mechanic. Much easier to replace the rack and quicker in the long run.

 

nipper

True, I know Subis like to be driven!

 

I'm not really a backyard mechanic. (Well, I work in the backyard) LOL

But, I'm pretty seasoned with Subarus. I have owned many, rebuilt many things from engines on....but never a rack! I own 6 now! Can't see that it would be hard to reseal. Has anyone done it? The seal kit is pretty reasonable compared to a rack.

 

Todd

True, I know Subis like to be driven!

 

I'm not really a backyard mechanic. (Well, I work in the backyard) LOL

But, I'm pretty seasoned with Subarus. I have owned many, rebuilt many things from engines on....but never a rack! I own 6 now! Can't see that it would be hard to reseal. Has anyone done it? The seal kit is pretty reasonable compared to a rack.

 

Todd

 

Again and the last time im going to say it, do not do it. There are mushings and guides inside a rack the need to be inspected and checked for wear. There are special tools required. This is the one part of any car that no one rebuilds themselves, because it is labor intensive, requires a clean area (like an engine rebuild).

 

http://www.aa1car.com/library/2003/bf20340.htm

 

http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/Steering.html

 

nipper

Okie Dokie.....I'll take your word for it. I'll watch it closely, but one more big dump of fluid and it's outta there!

 

Todd

Okie Dokie.....I'll take your word for it. I'll watch it closely, but one more big dump of fluid and it's outta there!

 

Todd

 

Feel free to replace the rack, just dont rebuild it. Replacement is fairly easy.

 

 

nipper