Rob98obsport Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 Procrastination is a terrible drug; I haven’t replaced the rear brakes on my 98 outback sport ever. I bought the rear brakes a few months back and never got around to putting them on. Well now they make noise and I can't get the drums off. Does anyone know a trick or should a take a sledgehammer to them? Thanx for the help Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsavrtka Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 Procrastination is a terrible drug; I haven’t replaced the rear brakes on my 98 outback sport ever. I bought the rear brakes a few months back and never got around to putting them on. Well now they make noise and I can't get the drums off. Does anyone know a trick or should a take a sledgehammer to them? Thanx for the help Rob Other than making sure the parking brake is off, the drums may have a couple of threaded holes in them. Find a bolt that matches the size and threads, then tighten them to pop off the drum. The hammer is good, but hit the drum inward toward the differential. This may break the drum free of any rust holding it on. jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98obster Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 Procrastination is a terrible drug; I haven’t replaced the rear brakes on my 98 outback sport ever. I bought the rear brakes a few months back and never got around to putting them on. Well now they make noise and I can't get the drums off. Does anyone know a trick or should a take a sledgehammer to them? Thanx for the help Rob Rob, I assume you got OE subaru shoes (not much choice is there?) I have the Haynes manual for Legacy 1990-1998 (89100). It is a good reference for jobs common to many models. Since I did my first brake job this spring on my OBS (don't know your experience) here's a couple tips: I would have the drums re-surfaced. $40 or so at firestone buy a can of brake cleaner and high-temp grease for pivot points bandaids (seriously) 4 jack stands, 2 ton floor jack (on diff protector if you have one) why: because you also be bleeding the brakes at the same time (speedi-bleed model k100 makes it a one man operation-it's awesome) and removing all 4 tires to get to the front bleeders. basically, it is a R&R with a lot of cleaning so have lots of rags. complete one side before you start the other so you can compare . I would probably inspect the front pads (70% of braking force ya know) at some point-I haven't had to change them as yet as mine are pretty good (I don't use brakes on Floyd hill-he he). Again, I pretty much figured it out from the Haynes manual. The star-wheel adjustment is a pain with the tire on though. have fun jon edit: so, subie dude where are you? might I see you flying past me on I-70 one of these early Saturday mornings? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishy Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 Sometimes the drums will develop a ridge of rust/scum/whatever around the inside edge. This is especially likely with lots of wear on the brakes. This ridge will make the drum not slide out over the shoes anymore. The drum will come loose but not come OFF. The cure for this is to adjust the shoes in away from the braking surface untill the drum clears them. If this is the case with your car you should definately have the drums turned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manarius Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 I think it's time for a rear drum to disc swap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcspeer Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 Take the rubber plug out of the back, Then get a large nail and put a 90 bent on the end about 1/4 to 3/8 in. Go straight in with point sticking left when you get it in the slot raise the point straight up. Push straight until you hit the adj. screw then raise the end you are holding just a little and the point will go under the adj. screw then quickly level it back out and push straight you will feel the little adj. arm when you get on it you will fell the spring action, push it away from adj. wheel and hold it back then take a screwdriver and turn the adj. wheel up, this will mean you need to push the screwdriver handle down towards floor or ground. The adj. wheel will be on the side of the slot that is nearest the front of car so have screwdriver there and nail towards the rear of slot. If you cant get it this way you can pull it off with a three jaw puller, all you should ruin is just the little caps on the hold down springs. Then when you have it off figure how to retract the shoes and draw you a digram for the next time. Procrastination is a terrible drug; I haven’t replaced the rear brakes on my 98 outback sport ever. I bought the rear brakes a few months back and never got around to putting them on. Well now they make noise and I can't get the drums off. Does anyone know a trick or should a take a sledgehammer to them? Thanx for the help Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99obw Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 Even if the shoes are loose sometimes the rust is severe enough to make removal impossible. BTDT One time I used a REALLY big 3 jaw wheel puller that I borrowed, another time I put a 2x4 across the front of the drum, pressing on the hub, and used my spring compressors to squeeze between the 2x4 and the drum. Once pressure was being applied, one good tap with a 10lb sledge and the whole thing flew apart. I have had many people tell me that beating them with a sledge is always enough, yet in these two instances it wasn't. I had already damaged the drums beyond being usable with my sledge before finally getting them removed. Like tcspeer said, get the shoes loose first. If they still won't come off, spray the area where the hubs, studs, and drums meet with penetrating oil and let it sit for a while. I like to then heat the face of the drum with a torch by circling the openings where the hub and studs go through. Be careful because the remaining oil will catch on fire. Then hit the drum on the edge of the front face with a 10lb sledge, working your way around. Repeat. The chances of damaging the drums using this method are high. I like to coat the hub with some never sieze when reassembling, makes the next time much easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigMattyD Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 I recently removed the rear drums from my wife's car and it took about 10 solid minutes of hammering with a sledge hammer to get each of them off. It was a real pain in the butt. I also used penetrating oil around the hub and lug studs to help break loose any rust. Of course, I had to replace the drums, but they were very old and in need of replacement anyway. Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookie Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 You guys make me shiver by reminding me of what it was like to remove old drums back in Maine. I used to have the torch and 10 pounder out pretty regularly on anything to do with suspension. Here in CA I just jack it up and pull the rims off by hand, or at the worst use the puller screws. Good luck guy and we feel for ya. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setright Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 But, but, the question has already been answered. To metric 8mm bolts, thread into the two holes, tighten alternately...presto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookie Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 Setright, That works very well here in CA, but back east they love to add lots of salt to the road. All that salt rusts those suckers on so hard you would think they are welded. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99obw Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 But, but, the question has already been answered. To metric 8mm bolts, thread into the two holes, tighten alternately...presto Those work great on newer vehicles, but I have had little luck using those threaded holes on rusty drums and rotors. Either the threads on the bolts strip or the holes are too rusty to get the bolts into. OT: I'll be in Copenhagen Monday, then to Stockholm and finally to Lund. Buisiness trip for 3 weeks. My first trip out of NA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookie Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 Heck 99, be sure to inspect for Subarus and report back! Sounds like a blast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setright Posted September 21, 2006 Share Posted September 21, 2006 Danes salt the roads too, I got the drum/disc of my Legacy after ten years that way. Off my six year old Impreza this summer, too. Visiting Copenhagen? Keep an eye out for me - Blue Impreza burbling along or a silver Forester with "Intermedium" written down the sides.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99obw Posted September 21, 2006 Share Posted September 21, 2006 Danes salt the roads too, I got the drum/disc of my Legacy after ten years that way. Off my six year old Impreza this summer, too. Visiting Copenhagen? Keep an eye out for me - Blue Impreza burbling along or a silver Forester with "Intermedium" written down the sides.... Perhaps the Danes dispense the salt with some measure of restraint and care, here they seem determined to destroy everyone's car. It makes me upset that our '99 is already rusting away. I know we could get 300k out of it if only the body would last that long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RallyKeith Posted September 21, 2006 Share Posted September 21, 2006 Danes salt the roads too, I got the drum/disc of my Legacy after ten years that way. Off my six year old Impreza this summer, too. Visiting Copenhagen? Keep an eye out for me - Blue Impreza burbling along or a silver Forester with "Intermedium" written down the sides.... Did you do it without breaking the wheel cylinder???? If you did you either got lucky or didn't have a ton of wear to the drum. I broke one of tabs off the piston of one of my wheel cylinders using the bolts without trying to un-adjust the shoes. If you can get in there and unadjust them some before trying the bolts I recommend it. Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookie Posted September 22, 2006 Share Posted September 22, 2006 It's kind of funny that I just posted about rusty cars I had seen in the past up your way 99. You must have had the same guys figure out salt levels that we had in Maine. Boy I sure don't miss that salt in CA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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