98obster

http://www.dirally.com/forums/showthread.php?20924-The-Unofficial-quot-How-to-Lift-your-Impreza-quot-Thread https://www.ingallseng.com/35420-14mm-fastcam-adjuster.html http://www.spcalignment.com/component/spc/?task=part_description&pid=81260&region=USA&make=Subaru&model=Impreza&year=1993%20-%202007&from=USAFrom&to=USATo

Just checking in to see if my username still works. My new acquisition. The OBS is hibernating in a garage in colo sprgs.

why I don't have an XV...yet

Ha, I haven't engaged my Duty C "snow switch" in years. mine would flash the next time I started up. Don't you hate it when you get to work on time and find out there was a 2 hour delay in force-blame the subie

Put the winter shoes on. Winterforce 205/70/15

i would clear the code and if it comes back you probably need a new knock sensor. they do go bad (~100k). not sure why you have a OBDII on a '95 but that's my diagnosis.

actually, both ends should be fairly stiff (tight). what brand is the one you just ordered?

air vent plug. important to have. definitely related to your overheating/coolant loss

1997 Outback Wagon 109K $6695 yeah, if they've done all the upper and front end work on this one that might be the best one, but man, those seem like Colorado prices-which sucks. I know bank payments suck but something around 7-10 years old might be worth it.

do you have a pic of the tooth side? broken/cracked teeth=broken TB. Man, I want to drive to where you are and change that belt now not sure what your year is but: http://www.ebay.com/itm/03-97-98-2-2L-EJ22E-Subaru-Impreza-Legacy-SOHC16V-Timing-Belt-Kit-Water-Pump-/260923356471?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ASubaru&vxp=mtr&hash=item3cc03e7537

^^^ very sound advise. On a similar topic, is it possible to service the oil pump without removing the belt?

i would include in your kit: PB blaster, vise grips, large flat head screwdriver. sometimes it is easier to cut through the brake line bracket and bend it back to free the brake line from the strut, I just ziptie after I install, ymmv. Also, use a 6 point 19mm socket, not 12 point, or use risk rounding the nut. also, rachet and open end 19mm wrench are helpful.

sounds like we need a timing belt party:drunk: . but seriously, if you can't confirm that the belt has been replaced, 165k is waaay overdue. may as well order a kit with tensioner and pulleys because when you get into it if the bearings sound like a skateboard-they also need to be changed. cracks in TB are almost never a good sign. just my .02 (adjusted for inflation).

I'm kinda in the same boat. IIRC, replacement belts should be 105k. You can remove the driver side timing cover to inspect the belt but I would probably question the remaining life in the tensioner and idler pulleys more than the belt itself, not to mention the WP and resealing the oil pump. congrats on having a 99 forester with 177k miles. 180k sounds like a nice round number to remember that the front end was done. Moon shot...It's a subaru thing:D

what are you saving the other one for? vibration might go away after you install the passenger side.

Okay, I'm thinking if everything you mentioned were to be fixed then 5-K6 would be pretty good (caveat, I'm in Colorado). Seller may not be willing to replace the HGs at that price if there's not evidence of failure, but if everything else is tight then you just have to do the recommended conditioner and make sure it doesn't overheat etc. right? Hopefully you can pick up a mystery free forester.

sounds like a money pit unless they're asking $3500 for it. overall, from your description, it appears very little maintenance was done. for the HG issue alone ($2000 unless you're a mechanic, ha) I'd keep looking.

If Fumoto, then skidplate, run

looks good. i wouldn't worry too much about the caster issue unless you have to have it perfect and then you should probably post your research on trailing arms in the "DIY lift" section. If you were ever to load down the wagon it would center out more. it also looks like you could even put in a slightly larger tire size. i would monitor the front boots as the old axles were very comfortable with the original angle and may wear quicker with the rise. what was your net increase in height?

Well, if this will be the 3rd timing belt then checking seals, replacing WP, pulleys, tensioner, and reseal the oil pump. I wouldn't let anyone touch the diff fluid-DIY. If the valve cover gaskets are leaking you might get a quote on those and adjusting the valves while they're at it. Outback Sport struts/springs would a good stiffer OE replacement. I'm thinking OB or Forester stuff would have a different tophat config in the rear. pull the covers off the rears and measure and report back. Nothing else would be needed with OBS stuff.

what brand replacement did you get? for me, the benkley (sp) was a PITA to get into the hub.

how about we call the strut swap a "half lift" since a true lift still requires new struts? Also, I've seen some butt ugly "true lifts" and ask myself what was the point of that. I Haven't seen a "true lift" on a OBS since perhaps 2" with new struts is all we're looking for so we can put on a little taller tire. So, a true lift would maintain the exact geometry as before?

Go ask Andyjo, ha. IMHO, this isn't a switch to go Rallyx in. At most, it might be a crawl assist in 3 ft of freshy snow or up a muddy incline. Probably 15-20 mph would be my guess. at that speed you would probably still be in 1st anyway which still maintains the 50/50 torque split but you can have it in D and when you get going you can close the switch and be on your way. IIRC, there is a slight lag in the TCU when starting out as it determines the amount of torque to put to the rear, the switch just pretty much gets rid of that lag. not as big a deal as it sounds though, I've never had a problem getting around without the switch. Going up Fall River Road in Rocky Mountain National Park in a week or so, and I will see if I can tell any significant difference

a "lift kit" may be a true lift but by far, the majority of people have accomplished their lift by replacing the stock strut assemblies with taller ones. by your reasoning, installing 50mm spacers on top of the struts would also not be a lift because it didn't include body spacers, steering column extension etc., but people also "lift" their imps this way as well. Struts are a component of the suspension so i would categorize any modification of the strut to raise the vehicle as a lift. To the contrary, I don't think anyone would say they are installing taller tires to "lift" their vechicle. I think the advantage of the struts is that it actually gives higher clearance wherease a lift kit will push down the chasis and cancels some the gained clearance. Of course, that's just my opinion, I could be wrong.

you mean 15" tires? Well, you won't get 205/70/15s on without rubbing and/or a strut swap, lift and/or cutting. check out the tire calculator to see other sizes: http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html I have 215/60/15 winter forces on my 98 OBS. I think having some space is good just so snow doesn't pack in too much and can still hit bumps without the tires hitting. maybe a taller narrower tire like 195/70/15 is available. good luck.