98obster

yeah, i was just looking at filters. the Purulator pure-one PL14460 and the subaru OE filter 15208aa100 is for the 4 cyl whether it is 2.2 or 2.5l. I don't know about bigger being better but if it's bigger then there's just more oil to pump through the filter. I'd just go with what is recommended. were you thinking of putting the H6 filter into your H4?

seems strange on an '02 but anything is possible. just for good measure take a peak at the AT vent to make sure it's not all gummed up. make sure the atf level is correct. just my .02

the marketing hype exists mostly because manufacturers are very protective of their technology. there a several youtube videos on awd testing. it does seem that everyone is coming out with an awd model (at least in the mountain states) but they also may come with stabilitrack and traction control, so who knows how the awd systems work in them. I don't think subaru has misrepresented anything about its AWD. From the wheels that slip to the wheels that grip has always been true (as long as all 4 wheels have traction).

you have to get the right gasket combination and thickness so everything is in the correct position when tight. I got the one with the nipple but cut most of it off to stay above the skid plate.

No, past due for it's winter oil change (yeah, she's a little pissed at me for that ) but i usually put in 1 qt mobile 1 5w30 and 3 quarts valvoline 5w30. that and my squeeling ps pulley (1-3 seconds at start).

Blizzard of the Century? around here it's called Tuesday . Have fun all y'all and be safe. My suby loves the snow but it absolutely hates starting in sub zero.

Mmm, yeah, I may be warming up the car every couple hours tonight. -17 expected in Greeley, crap, Do Svidanya Komrad.

I haven't changed mine yet but it looks like a straight shot from underneath looking up. anyone?

I believe the climate you are driving is about to take a turn for the worse, be safe in the next couple days.

I think if you're gonna go to the trouble of replacing the boot from a kit then it's worth the effort to replace as much of the old grease as possible. under the car is possible but a pita imho. otherwise just repack with grease and seal with duct tape-will probably last longer that the split boot; http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=106059&highlight=cv+duct mmm, yeah, i would love to see the Brooks leather boots.

how long are you letting the glow plug warm up . okay seriously, when you turn the ignition key to on-do you hear the fuel pump pressurizing? I alway give it 2-3 seconds before I turn the key when it's cold.

mmm, you probably shouldn't have disconnected that. Lojac and Nielson are the same and you know what happens when you ignore your TV.

uh, that's my homepage

thanks. I hope this clears up my driveline issues. I have this in case I want to press teh matter with the dealer;

it was all ATF, absolutely no gear oil- a pretty dark garnet red I can't believe when the "subaru tech" checked levels of all fluids the red fluid on the dip stick didn't raise a red flag. at least I know my shaft seals are good if they were holding in ATF. I've probably put 200 easy miles on the car since April so hopefully no real damage. makes me wonder why the engine oil, AT tranny and the front diff are all yellow. so, is/was the axle shaking a classic sign of torque bind in the front diff? I just put in some Valvoline. would you recommend anything else (Scotty's?) to increase protection and "heal" my wounds?

Okay, I did a test run (to the dealer:mad:) to find out if any "consumables" were charged for my car before I bought it-just oil change:-\. Anyway, my symptoms might be decreasing a little since on the way home. I'm hoping the new gear oil just needs to be run in. I may drive a few more miles tomorrow and then do another flush to get the last bit of ATF outta there. what can be the irreversible consequences of ATF in the front Diff? I am searching as well but responses are appreciated. wish I knew who did this. checking the service records included with sale.

10 qts of 80-90? that would take like an hour to add :-\. Nope, the tranny fluid is the same color as the front diff (was)

okay, imagine my surprise when I popped off the drain plug on the front differential and a gushing torrent of fcuking ATF came spewing out. guess all I can do is fill with gear oil and refresh in a week or so. Wow, definitely going back to the dealer to look up all the work that was done. I hope the front diff isn't borked-no metal came out-good news I guess. the aluminum foil I wrapped around the header hardly got touched but the ground sure did bottom line-you buy a new scooby. check or have everything checked.

I lowered the front/rear end 2 inches with 08 FXT assemblies. I've never known an axle to bounce up and down at the doj on every rotation-the aftermarket axle was a nice tight fit (how would I know if the entire mating surface of the splines were taken up?). how could the DOJ NOT be static on the stub shaft without something deeper going on inside the diff? this could all be related to a bad wheel bearing but can't see how it would be translated to the doj.

well, I guess I could put all 4 corners on stands. my issue: took the car to the mechanic to see if I had a wheel bearing (driver front) since I was getting a whump whump sound with no steering wheel or pedal feedback. the mech noticed the DF axle was bouncing up and down steming from the doj-we agreed it was a bad axle and I just replaced it. I also had about a 3" lift which was probably to much for an already compromised axle. I was getting this sound before the lift but only on right curving roads. I've lowered the front end to a more reasonable height with '08 FXT assemblies but my test drive still had the same characteristics. also, the original axle didn't have the baffle at the doj end and the new one does so I'm getting an added sound of the baffle hitting the diff housing ? Haven't had much luck find info on problems with stub shafts and I've had good luck with EMPI axles so just wanted to get under there while things are moving. I'll be putting in new gear oil tomorrow since it looks like it could use it but level is okay. when I swapped axles I only felt the 1/8" in and out moving on the stub shaft but no up and down. Passenger side exhibits no signs of problems even when I had the lift in. Could the diff shafts be off center left to right?

thanks. no tb. I will chauck (sp) the rears as my handbrake cable has stretch beyond braking ability and no adjustment left.

I can't remember. If I put in the fwd fuse, can I jack up the front end and idle the engine in drive to help diagnose a front end issue? thanks gurus. oh: 97 lego OB 4eat. sorry.

that may work on the rear but on the front the tape will quickly bunch up in the folds. the better way on the fronts is to tear equal length strips and overlap about 1/2 the strip lenthwize, wrap a length on the ends and zip tie. (heavy mill plastic underneath) booya

you bet. he's the click and clack of the medical world you can also put a really bright light behind the toe to see if you broke it. a big toe break will take a while to mend if you can't figure a good way to immobilize it (cast).

mmm, guess you missed the House episode with the lady that had a broken toe. Yeah, marrow in the blood stream is bad..mmkay.