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Everything posted by 98obster
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okay, you're kidding right? you my fine sir have entered the domain of not having to upgrade your car and instead, just keep it alive. be anal about maintenance and inspection (fluids, cv boots, brakes etc.) and save up for your next down payment. and in the meantime enjoy and appreciate what you have. peace.
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ideas, yes. you did it wrong. sorry, but the interweb has a lot more info on seafoam than just on the back of the can. CHANGE YOUR OIL NOW or better yet, go back in time, add seafoam to the warm crankcase and idle for a few minutes and then change your oil. Seafoam will only rule out mystery engine operation caused only by carbon build up but won't fix and may just reveal other more serious problems. have you ever put a gas treatment in your tank with 1/4 tank and run the engine? why would you do it with seafoam? it works in carpentry as well as auto maintenance: measure twice and cut once. I'm afraid you didn't even put out the tape measure Finally, doing this on a 150K subie (for the first time?) may require more than one treatment in small amounts of ~5 oz before you see benefits. good luck.
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nice forum, you don't even have to register to search or see today's posts so bigo, is your sedan an automatic?
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real food...and poprocks:rolleyes:
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sounds like you're going a different route, cool. I currently have 2000 forester assemblies on my OBS and will be switching them out for a 2008 XTs set as soon as my strut bar arrives. there will be a difference of about .4 inches increase below the lower perch. Yes, bigger tires would be cool but I am trying to figure out the rear trailing arm situation to return to original caster. I'll be putting in an upper rear Ingall's bolt to dial out camber but no crossmember spacers for now-no jumping for now I guess.
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Chip, I'm not sure what point you're trying to make? what do you mean by depth? I've driven on hardpack roads with at least 3 inches and of course the snow/dirt whatever will fill the tread-that's the point. everything is connected-the tire is connected to the snow the snow is connected to other snow on the road etc. etc. -if you're not connected you're not in control. Most "All seasons" perform better in light snow conditions than a dedicated summer tire which is trying to maximize footprint with some rain shedding capibilities. Since you're running Blizzaks year round you will probably see a season (probably their last) where they are no better than a good all season. It all comes down to money and performance. So many subaru owners in temperate climates buy dedicated snow sets it can't be a coincidence. personally, I think All Season only applies if you live in Hawaii.
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Somehow cheap Subarus are attracted to me, help?
98obster replied to Caboobaroo's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
So, Caboo, do you think this is worth it? It's probably 230k http://fortcollins.craigslist.org/car/719170821.html -
Somehow cheap Subarus are attracted to me, help?
98obster replied to Caboobaroo's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
sometimes I think CL is the only thing keeping our economy afloat. nice score...btw, denver CL has tons of subarus these days-not many old ones though. -
M + S is "mountains and snow" severe service and iirc will be indicated by a snowflake and often with a Mountain symbol on studdable tires. and when we are talking about chains-we mean cables right? Subarus are amazing vehicles on snowpacked roads with adequate tire-I would assume any ski area would at least clear the road for access with adequate snow tires. My experience with all seasons is that they are higher tread wear and may not give the same winter performance after a season or 2. another trick to increase traction is to let a few lbs of pressure out of the tire to increase the contact patch. jeez, winter seems so far away right now.
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http://www.cars101.com/subaru/outback/outback2003.html I'd probably stick to the OE size-perhaps 215s if you think your gonna hit the deep stuff (narrow is better for snow) and probably a little better mpg. I would just add another .02 that chains on a subie are like wearing a belt and suspenders-rarely needed (as long as the belt works that is). you also need to think about when you would be chaining up and realize that you wouldn't be going much over 30mph in them. So, I would continue to recommend a M+S snowflake tire rather than putting on chains in a blizzard.
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sorry, I can't read for that long...I did read the first post and all I can say is you're in Cali, so I'd say All Seasons ain't gonna give you what you want the rest of the year- even a cheap touring tire like Kuhmo KH21 would be better. With gas prices the way there are going-there's no point in skiing unless it's blower:banana: , so the last thing you want is an all season. In Colorado, and specifically in Boulder, people rock Winterforces all year round. So, I'd say get a winter set up with steelies and Winterforces that will last at least 3 seasons-even the 3rd season will be better than the new All Seasons I suspect (the tread is siped but much harder than an X-ice. just my humble opinion. do the math and decide-give your subie a fighting chance and have fun. jon
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1996 obw 2.2L
98obster replied to rox's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
some persuading, i should say so... I just did mine (bought the belts back in January or so) and almost thought I had picked up the wrong belts-do they shrink if you don't put them on right away or what? Anyway, the only way to get them on was crank the motor while they were partially over the a/c and p/s pulleys. weird, just weird.:-\ I also had to replace the a/c tensioner pulley (don't forget to ask for the new bolt for the new pulley design) -
just out of curiosity, if and when a timing belt fails, is the primary cause the belt (i.e., belt teeth) or a failed pulley or tensioner? I'm pretty anal about the sounds my car makes so would there be any indication (noisy pulley) to forwarn me of approaching trouble? Also, the 2nd belt seems to be the concensus for replacing the water pump so would it leak from the weep hole prior to failure or just die? what the are recommendations for WP brand? So, it seems that the second belt change is mostly to replace components, possibly including oil seals-but I haven't seen mention of those. and then just putting on a new belt I picked up my 98 OBS with 94k on it. it has 131k now. the first belt was replaced anytime between 60 and 94. So I'm thinking 150k is my deadline to get my act together? Anything on the oil pump-is it a lifetime thing? The other thing is, the inner timing belt covers just seem to crack at the threads so ordering the left and right inners might be a good preventative measure-PB Blaster beforehand maybe? do you have a Ebay store recommendation? PCI etc.? jon
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Lift question : What years and models share the early legacy platform?
98obster replied to backwoodsboy's topic in Off Road
the 98-01 foresters and imprezas share the same chassis as far as I know-rear top hat bolt spacing is different tho