98obster

Nice, but you should do it reverse like am ambulance.

sweet. i have the same switch. yeah, i'm sure andyjo's pics are long gone-good job. the fastest i've ever driven with it "engaged" is around 15-20 mph mostly for monster snow fall-haven't used it for a while though. just be sure you soldered and shrinkwrapped the connections and at the switch too-you don't want that circuit to open unless you flip the switch.

just replaced the tired forester assemblies with less tired forester struts and king springs. probably sits up .25-.5" more due to the HD springs. King Me, ha. rears old/new comparison

ooh, I hope that isn't the same as toque de muerte that I hear about anyway, i hope that' it. the rpms will actually decrease when I'm going up hill. damn, I thought my 4eat had suddenly evolved into a 5eat. thanks.

okay, granted, it's been cold lately so that may be a cause but I'm wondering if this is a sign the tranny is in its twilight or maybe a sensor. the 98 4eat shifts fine and gets up to speed okay but lately it sits at around 2800 at around 60mph and a couple miles or so the tach will settle back down to its normal 2500 rpm. it's definitely in 4th when this happens and not 3rd finally going into 4th. Any ideas?

has anyone drained their oil-brought in inside and put it back in the car in the morning before they start their car? with the forecast for -30F, it might be worth the time/trouble? Fumoto valve ftw.

'97 is still interference so you may still have stuff to work on soon? but yeah, the obs is a great ride and a great platform to upgrade suspension, intake, exhaust etc, put in 2002 wrx seats It's obviously not the boaty touring feel of the legacy with the 4eat but you probably know that. wow, with all you've done to the OB (year?) I guess your price is fair since you aren't giving any kind of guarantee but it looks like it's good to go another 100k unless the tranny blows-start with 3500 and take 3000, of course I'm in CO where $2900 would be a steal . a little better gas mileage also with the OBS. enjoy.

Damage report, I broke a bolt off in the body and Richard bent his rear struts.................... and a lug nut? damn, that looks like fun. good pics.

I removed the inner baffle plate off the axle-same noise so that wasn't the problem. didn't touch the retainer mostly because I don't want to try something without the right tool. Anyway, I drained the gear oil (valvoline) and and refilled with Lucas, 80-90 of course. It now seems the gear chatter (that's the only thing I can think it could be at this point) has disappeared. I don't know if I increased the viscosity a little more by removing any last remaining ATF from my last gear oil change about 2 weeks ago or if there are significant differences in gear oils. If this solves most of the issue I would think Lucas an excellent choice for high mileage 4eats. anyone use a heavier oil than 80-90 for older diffs?

thanks. I see the diagram, any idea what has failed or worn? I would suspect that the 4eat has a certain amount of wobble so it doesn't bind. couldn't it be just a worn out o-ring (3) or roller bearing (17) that can be replaced on the car making sure to return the retainer to the exact position? Otherwise I'm just going to remove the baffle plate and save up for a tranny swap.:-\

Better to search and revive an old thread than start a new one? I seem to have the same problem on the front driver side axle stub. I've replace the axle twice thinking it was just a bad doj. I don't think there would be any noise if the baffle plate on the doj side wasn't there. the seal seems okay since there is no leaking. the axle stub wobble seems to dimish when I make right turns. I'm thinking of turning clockwise (inward) just 1 notch on the retainer to see if thats "stabilizes" the axle stub somewhat. Otherwise I might later (when it gets warmer) replace the seal and bearing (can I do that on the car?). I could always remove the baffle plate that is making the noise but then the axle and stub would be allowed to wobble in a larger radius. the axle stub shaft doesn't pull out or anything and I wish it were just a matter of tapping on it to make it click it tighter or something. no other tranny noises or whines. fluid is new cause I recently pulled 1.5 qts of ATF out (double lip oil seal seems fin) but I'm wondering if something might have been damaged or worn to affect backlash?

you're losing a cup or 2 a month and you figured a 40 mile drive to rule out the rad hose? the fact that there is coolant present at the clamp leads me to believe that is you culprit (upper and lower). It may also be the type of clamp you are using. I recently noticed on my new 97 OB the upper hose was leaking when I just started the engine but stops after it is hot. Your upper and lower hoses are probably due anyway. put in a new thermo gasket as well.

I would also agree that there are better "off road" platforms than subaru, the OP probably realizes the limitations of subarus (I hope) for offroad. imo, the AT is better for "off roading". But I'm sure there are some Aussie people who would love to help you spend your money as they love the OB and can help with lift kits, bumper deletes etc. It's been said countless times, the subaru is mostly a jack of all trades and master of none. you'd be better of modding an OBS or d/r GL

It's very comforting to know there's such a thing as slight TB . can you verify a good Duty C solenoid in either of the units? (correct ohms?). the wire harness is connected? just noob observations, I'm sure you've checking these out as well. 16 flashes might be duty c but it's too cold to go out and confirm tonight.

one more neglected sooby rescued-good luck to your brother. Oh, and Dude, your book report is due Feb. 1. ha, http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=121610159

greality bites, ha. finally warming up. yeah, i'd pass on the fwd but in austin it would be a nice wagon-for the right price.

a good ole fashion $1000 cash sounds good (there's gotta be something wrong with it), - for bad clutch, etc.

here's my thought, I don't button up a flush job until I feel heat coming out of the vents. Did you have the heater going while you were filling and burping. I suspect you have air in the heater core. you sometimes have to really raise the front end to get the air out. drain cooland and then refill from heater core inlet hose to force air out.

ha, wonder what all you're not disclosing. don't know about the manual, changing oil might clean up what you've already done. can't hurt. when are you downshifting, how fast, you might want to be nice to those synchros from now on and just clutch it from 3rd until you stop (until you figure out if the oil change clears it up). sensors from http://www.chaplinssubarugenuineparts.com ~$7 minimum shipping edit: make sure your clutch is adjusted or not worn out, don't know why that would just affect 2nd tho. but worth ruling out.

cheap boots on an otherwise decent axle sucks. I've also used EMPI on a 2" lifted OBS with no issues. Was yours the "Max Drive" axle? worth rebooting?

huh? I suspect the backyarder demand has decreased so they decided to reduce the costs of importing the Tokyo Roki and go with a manufacturer (canada) that met specs at a lower price point. I doubt they will be charging less for the cheaper (for SIA) filter eh? Since I can't confirm an aftermarket filter that states 23 psi bpv (using 5w30) I will probably stick with OEM even with cardboard endcaps and silicone anti-drainback (cause it's useless on vertical filters?). ebay case of 12 for 5.17 each-is that good?

I just installed my last black AA100 filter and was looking to buy some more and found out it's now blue AA12A. has anyone put these side by side? And just read that the internals are by Honeywell (FRAM) and plastic valve? In this picture they look a little longer.

you found 14" with 5 X100 bolt pattern?. they are probably steel but I'm thinking they won't clear the brake calipers.

it's a pain but I put the front on jack stands and turn the controls to full heat until the t-stat opens and see the fluid running through the radiator with the cap off.

Also, do Subaru filter not have a check valve to prevent back flow since they are vertically mounted but all others do since they have to be more universal in fitment?