98obster

nice, it's like that puzzle in the paper: find at least 3 differences between the two pictures. I see two besides the lift and wheels.

sounds like fun-is this an "old gen" event? my obs definitely needs more snow but how deep is it up there?-Jon

you get what you pay for. I would think your winter tires should be stock size or 195/65/q15 (slightly narrower). this will help you cut through snow better but also provide an increase in pressure (lbs per sq inch) on the footprint. 185s might be okay but provide less protection for your rims-and of course your ground clearance is lower if only slightly. don't cheap out on winter tires-winter is the time when your tires are your best defense against the elements. good luck-jon also, consider the size of your spare, could you get home without killing your tranny?

replace the lube with synthetic-tolerates cold better?

I think that is a good explanation. So, if my rear wheels were stuck and spinning only one tire, could I apply the e-brake to increase the torque enough to get the other wheel moving? jon

I'm sorry too, but if you live in Colorado you put the cables in your trunk around November. Sure it's nice to have Blizzaks on too but most folks manage with All Season tires. If it's a ice rink-stay home. And if there's 20 inches of snow on the ground and you have to get somewhere-no tire is going to bite when the front end is being lifted by the the extra 12 inches you have to plow through-cables on the front and know how to put them on BEFORE is storms. jon

Wow, haven't been here for a while and the "snow switch" discussion is still going strong. I did this mod probably back in September (warm then) on my OBS pretty much like Andyjo explained. As his pictures matched my situation exactly, I had no probs at all-definitely solder the connections. I think the picture of my switch is in here somewhere. I made it pretty simple (DPST), basically an on off switch where the off is the ON (up) position for our purposes. I modified a red hinged cover (radioshack). You lift the cover and flip the switch and when the cover is closed the circuit closes. The biggest problems with this mod will definitely be when and if you forget it is "on"-so whatever it takes to foolproof the switch. In the Colorado front range we've had over 50 inches of snow since x-mas and I used it a half dozen times to get going and to get and keep unstuck and occasionally also to plow through the deep stuff though I probably didn't need it at that point. I definitely do not have an indication of any problem by engaging the switch. I don't know how I would recognize any pending problem with the clutch pack or Duty C solenoid as a result and I have not perceived anything out of the ordinary. I've even had the switch on while in reverse-no problems. I have 118k+ on my 4eat. the fluid probably has 15k on it. the worst thing I did was do a few tight circles on dry pavement when I first installed it to "test" it. I do not think you would need to test it-just triple check your work and definitely test continuity and solder and heat shrink connections. Also Peach and Good Luck. Jon

I pulled mine out of my 98 OBS-stupid place for cupholder IMO, probably different though (hazard : defrost : cupholder) ?? Let me know. Jon

Very comfy, So, when's the due date? Late April ? Hatch is not so terrible a boy's name

Choices that I have seen: 1) http://www.writerguy.com/primitive/skid.htm#tailorskid 2) http://www.rallyarmor.com/rally_skidplates/skidplates.html Although, I don't know if they have a plate yet for your year of Forester but you can inquire 3) make your own If money is not the biggest concern #1 looks good OE or aftermarket rear diff protector not a bad idea-more options there and makes a good jack point later on HTH good luck and happy trails Jon

Ah, like the cruise control switch/relay? I certainly could forget to turn it off. But would you more likely be turning it off when you leave the vehicle or on the fly after getting clear of a rough patch or from a snowed in parking spot? depending on frequency of use this winter-would this move up the interval for a tranny flush? any conditioners that would protect the clutch pack? Have you ever had the AT light come on with it engaged (temperature ?)? And what is this about the shift resistor-you mean I eliminate that jolt from 1st to 2nd? jon Snow and blowing snow advisory in Colo Mtns today with 8 inches in spots

Yeppers, I was definitely thinking of that scenario in configuring my switch. I definitely don't want to bump it "on" and my cover makes it idiot proof. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=12961&limit=recent

the "snow switch" (picture would be inserted if I could )is a great way to update our 4eat subarus. If you are starting out in deep snow and need to gain sure-footed speed. On the new Jeep Compass it is called "locking center coupling". It is strange that subaru's AWD-centered thinking has overlooked this option. Oh, and I don't miss riding the clutch while crawling up I-70 at 5 mph in Colorado on Sunday afternoon with the rest of the world. Hill holder is wonderful. Auto Subies are great-most manufacturers don't have 1-2-3-D-N-R-P just D-N-R-P. Good article on the 4x4 rage in car manufactures these days: http://www.skipressworld.com/us/en/daily_news/2006/09/winter_wheels_do_skiers_really_need_4wd.html?cat=Snowlife Jon

Akums Razor wins again:clap:

Rob, I assume you got OE subaru shoes (not much choice is there?) I have the Haynes manual for Legacy 1990-1998 (89100). It is a good reference for jobs common to many models. Since I did my first brake job this spring on my OBS (don't know your experience) here's a couple tips: I would have the drums re-surfaced. $40 or so at firestone buy a can of brake cleaner and high-temp grease for pivot points bandaids (seriously) 4 jack stands, 2 ton floor jack (on diff protector if you have one) why: because you also be bleeding the brakes at the same time (speedi-bleed model k100 makes it a one man operation-it's awesome) and removing all 4 tires to get to the front bleeders. basically, it is a R&R with a lot of cleaning so have lots of rags. complete one side before you start the other so you can compare . I would probably inspect the front pads (70% of braking force ya know) at some point-I haven't had to change them as yet as mine are pretty good (I don't use brakes on Floyd hill-he he). Again, I pretty much figured it out from the Haynes manual. The star-wheel adjustment is a pain with the tire on though. have fun jon edit: so, subie dude where are you? might I see you flying past me on I-70 one of these early Saturday mornings?

I've had mine for about a month now. haven't used the trip comp much yet. It is worth the difference in price but I thought yours did have it I think the main differences are size of the screen and number of back light colors. On my OBS I put it in the space where the cup holder is (was). It is a pretty cheap mod for the gauges you get-I think. It does have a fast refresh option-so that's what I put it on. The trip computer is cool but takes a couple fill ups to calibrate and is good on long trips and shows miles to empty etc. Lots of forums out there discussing it now. There is an option to input user commands into it but I'm not that geeky and hexidecimel is hard to decipher at 60 mph. Mainly the colors and size. I bet you could find a buyer for your "vintage" scangauge to recoupe some of the cost. And no, I don't work for them. I bought it. So, I guess they are charging what the market will bear. jon