Okaye heres the deal. I want some opinions for this one! pleeze!

88 gl-10 turbo, new front crank seal, timing belts, full tune up.... Ran fine for a few weeks, 1000 miles and then just died on me in traffic.... downshifting into 3rd and it died, popped the clutch, nothin, pulled over (rolled), checked coil wire, all spark plugs, anything.... vacuum lines, hoses, connections, fuses.... Tried to start it, jus cranks over, its getting spark from coil, and can smell fuel... pushed it off the hwy. and took off the timing cover, no broken belt. Sounds liek its out of time... I read a few of the other posts similiar to these symptons... screw on rotor comes out, or slipped a belt... what to do? Im going back to it tomorow, some very nice people let me pull it inot their driveway, they pushed me with their car.... hey it didnt get towed! Ill update tomorow. thanks all! subaru love

Check it for compression. sometimes the turbo's like to eat a HG without a lot of notice. When you say it sounds like it's out of time, you are making me wonder if a HG let go. They don't often run on two cylinders. I've got some to run on three, but it's a real fight to keep them running. Drove one I bought on 3 about 20 miles home and it wouldn't do more than 60 MPH on the freeway

 

If the t-belts are new, are you sure you got them tensioned properly? Turn the engine over and check that the cams are 180 degrees out from each other.

 

GD

I've had a new timing belt shred within 3k miles, and I've had tensioner bolts back out and let the tensioner slip. Any failure in the high-tension circuits could cause troubles.

first things I'd check are the rotor screw, then like GD said, take the side covers off and double check that everything is where it should be.

 

-Dave

I have taken the pass. side cover off. the belt is tight and looks like new!

I also am positive that the cams are (were) 180 out from each other.... I posted on here somewhere what not to do.... not turn them 180 out. but tore it back apert and corrected it! Positive. is there an actual way to 'properly' tighten the tensioners down? I didnt drive since it died... Im going to try the rotor screw frist. start easy. then go to the driver side cover. Time will tell. Thanks for the quick responses!

 

 

Check it for compression. sometimes the turbo's like to eat a HG without a lot of notice. When you say it sounds like it's out of time, you are making me wonder if a HG let go. They don't often run on two cylinders. I've got some to run on three, but it's a real fight to keep them running. Drove one I bought on 3 about 20 miles home and it wouldn't do more than 60 MPH on the freeway

 

If the t-belts are new, are you sure you got them tensioned properly? Turn the engine over and check that the cams are 180 degrees out from each other.

 

GD

check the drivers side belt. cause that side drives the distributer. I've had EA82s run with a broken pass. side belt, but not the drivers

hah.... went back this morning.... took off the disty cap and theres the little screw to hold the rotor in spot.... that was kinda a releif. it was. yea, put it back on, fired right up and drove to school from where I left ti last night! Thanks for the posts and replys! I love this board! yay, Im at school, so back to it I go....... Both belts feel tight thru the little inspection covers..... took off the pass side ones and shouldnt have.... o well.

 

check the drivers side belt. cause that side drives the distributer. I've had EA82s run with a broken pass. side belt, but not the drivers

hah.... went back this morning.... took off the disty cap and theres the little screw to hold the rotor in spot.... that was kinda a releif. it was. yea, put it back on, fired right up and drove to school from where I left ti last night! Thanks for the posts and replys! I love this board! yay, Im at school, so back to it I go....... Both belts feel tight thru the little inspection covers..... took off the pass side ones and shouldnt have.... o well.

 

I don't know how many times I've had this happen, on three different cars even.

 

The screw hole in my car finally got stripped out enough it wouldn't take the screw at all.

 

So, I discovered I could swap the post the rotor bolts to from any other distributor (look down the shaft and see the phillips screwhead). So, I swapped out a keyed post, got a keyed rotor, and will never have that problem again!

 

Glad it worked out for ya, I like simple solutions.

 

-Dave

When I first dropped this motor in my car, it ran like crap, kept missing, and the tach would jump around. I figured the Crank angle sensor was going out. When I finally got my hands on a new disty, and went to take the old one out, I found the 2 bolts were loose. apparently when I set the ign timing, I forgot to tighten them.

 

Glad you got it fixed!!

like i said if its not one thing its another.... i get it running. it runs good. has that slight hesitation as others stated in posts, but also. my power steering pumop blots are loose.. realy loose.... the bolt thats loose is right under the intake... no room at all to get a wrench or anything.... im not sure what im goin to do as of right now. any suggestions would be awesome. thanks guys!

socket universal, or an extender bar with a rounded tip to let the socket swivel a bit on the end?????

 

you could also take a spare open end wrench and heat it up some (not much) take it to a vise and put a 90 degree bend in it to make it a crow's foot.. do the same to the box end, find a bolt and nut and some washers that fit in the box socket end, set the bolt head on the outside of the box end, then a washer, then a nut to go into the box, then another washer and another nut. then, put your ratchet on the bolt head.

 

i havent investigated the bolt in question... but it was a thought. maybe my idea, or something like it, can help.