What do these things go for in ok shape. Theres one i saw, Bright red with a few large dents and oxidised paint, and a little rust. it prolly doesnt run, its coverd in leaves like it hasnt moved for awhile. but if it does what kinda price ranges are they if it does or doesnt run? i dont know any details. Its a 4 Door 4WD Turbo. Not sure on anything else, probably higher miles

The 85/86 RX sedan isn't very desireable. It's got the flapper-door MAF, and Gen 1 turbo heads. Also only has part time 4WD, not the AWD (Full Time 4WD) of the later 87 and up RX coupe.

 

In the condition you describe, I would offer them $100 for it, and walk away if they want more. If it runs and drives real nice and looks good - maybe $500 tops.

 

GD

sweet, i hope they want it for next to nothing, i want a subaru so bad

Well, it doesnt run, the timing belt broke. Its got 260k on the body. But its got a rebuilt motor 25k ago, but the thing sat for a few years and then the front main started leaking, causing oil to get on the belts and weakening them and one broke. So it needs some work. The power windows and locks all work, the engine bay looks fairly clean. The thing got a new clutch, CV joints, rear driveline/differentail and all that, new tires, and a new powersteering pump about 6-7 thousand miles before the belt broke, He says hell take 100$ for it. Its also an 1987. It has one of those little splastic spoilers things on the back, its like all cracked and ************, do they just peel off? He also says the rear defroster probably doesnt work, and he cant remeber if the a/c or cruise worked.

Like said the sedan is not really wanted, its less of an Rx and more of a fancy sedan but for $100 I'd be all over it:banana: I got my 88 Rx coupe for $400 and $3 later it ran.... well thats what I call it:lol:

As far as the rear spoiler goes, I've never looked but I think you are right to assume that the thing just like peels off. Pop the trunk first to double check but if thats all clear go to town on it. a little goo be gone of lighter fluid will clean up the mess nicely. Pics FTW!

if it's the black spoiler, it is glued on.

 

$100's not bad. check out the oil pump and water pump while you're in there, maybe do the cam seals too.

i was looking for a little sedan, i like the framless windows. Also it has a small ammount of rust on it, needs a taillight i already found. And it wil need headlights, i found one for temporary use for like 10$ but it also has a hole in it to replace the one on the car thats orange and rusty inside and has an inch of standing water, lol. And the shifter bushing must be hella worn, the shifter moves alot when in gear, how hard are those to replace, iv herd there easy but you never know, lol. Also with the Seals and what not, im not quite clear on how to service the oil pump and all that, i read the Miles fox thing many times.

 

Also! When you take the crank pully off to do timing belts, how do you hold it in place, and how tight must it be, because on my mazda 323 the crank pully wasnt tightend enough and it completly ruined the woodruff key, keyway and crank nose and now the cars got terrible pully wobble and timing retardation and its about to all just fall apart. So i really need to know all that.

 

I guess i could start a new thread with all them questions, lol, save space right?

nah, save space by posting here. You can probably edit the title and first post to reflect that..

The shifter bushings aren't that hard to replace (one of them is right next to the driveshaft) and they don't cost much.

Holding the crank pulley in place is easy if its a manual. Just put the car in 5th gear, with the parking brake on. Will have some slack, but it'll lock up enough so that you can take that bolt off.

so how tight does it have to be? Torque specs or does it matter? So the bushing is easy, thats good, cause i think thats why the little center consol is popped out of place around the shifter, lol.

 

Also! Will some 175/70/R13 Snow tires fit on those stock subaru wheels, the "H" style wheels with little to no speedometer change? Cause i already have some of those snow tires here i would like to use instead of sellin with my mazda

 

I pick it up Tuesday!! Im so happy

also do these cars have blow off valves of some sort?

No blow off valve. You wouldn't want to put one on either because of the MAF sensor.

 

You would be best to plumb in a Bypass valve in recirc, but that even isn't really necessary.

 

175/70/13 should fit just fine without throwing the speedo off much (if at all). My wagon has 185/70/13 stock, and I threw on some 175/70/13 snows that I have. Speedo isn't any further off than it was before (at least according to driving by those signs that tell you your speed).

also do these cars have blow off valves of some sort?

 

Nope, no intercooler or BOV/BPV of any sort. Put those two items in and it'll be better for the car.

with the whole dual range things, whats the difference with hi and low, whats the max speed with either, do u have to be stopped for it to engauge? and with the clutch in also? i know never to use it on dry pavment

Since its a turbo, you're going to have a kinda crappy lo range. Its 1.2:1 instead of the non-turbo 1.5:1 low.

 

You can shift in and out of 4WD while moving. Just live the lever up, or lower the lever. To go into Low range, put in the clutch, pull it up until you feel it kinda click. Let the clutch out.

 

This is all in the owner's manual. It states not to switch between high and low at anything above 30mph, though I've done it higher before...

well whats the difference between HI and LO? like power transferd to the rear wheels or what, im not 100% clear on that, iv never had a subaru, or really a 4WD vehicle myself

It gives you different gearing. All of the gears will be lower. Meaning, quicker acceleration, lower top speed, and you have to shift more. Its use comes mostly at low speeds when you need to 'crawl'. On the Turbos, the gearing helps keep the car in its power band for all that rally crossing you do

oh ic, thanks, so if im going through town and its snowing like crazy going about 20 max and the roads havent been plowed ect.... what do i have it in, LO or HI? just wanna make sure i use this D/R to the best of its potential without damage.

in snow and mud, you can use the lo range since its kidna like a truck, where on pavement, it binds the transfer case. I would use it in snow but remember, when its in 4wd, the rear end will feel like it wants to push the back end a little so be careful. I almost had an accident last winter coming down a hill on ice in 4wd. Started to push the car and made it want to swing back and forth.

Ok so how tight does the crank pully bolt need to be???

I got it, here it sits in my driveway. It has a few more issues than i thought orrinally, mostly interior stuff, like the seatbelts for the back seat dont clip in, theres a button missing, what does annoy me the most is the consol around the shifter wont stay in place and when u move the shifter it makes nose and moves around, anyway to make it stop? And does the tilt wheel actually LOCK anywhere besides really low where its against my legs, lol. And the clutch seems pretty stiff, is that the cable??

its fixed and runs well. Im so proud of myself, this is the first major repair iv done all by myself. im 16 BTW. I drove it a little, man its a quick little devil. when i first got it started the lifters were LOUD as HELL! i was scard for a minute, but they queted down as it hit operating temprature, and if blew alot of smoke for a couple minutes, but not anymore. the lifters are still audible, has very good oil pressure also. No more leaks. Its in a need of a wash desperatly, and im gonna need some help with some rust spots being fixed, one looks like its fairly deep, and will need bondo and stuff, so ill take pics of those.

 

Some1 help me, lol, I cant get the stupid horn button on the steering wheel, WHAT AM I DOING WRONG! omg messed with it for like a 1/2 hour and gave up. Also some1 should tell me how to hold the center consol around the shifter still. Also the rear drivers door handle is loose, and it wont open from the insde....so im thinking the two are linked.

Center console: 5 screws. One on each side at the front under the dash (by your foot) One in the center of the cubby hole infront of the shifter, and 2 under the coin tray under the handbrake lever. Make sure they're all tight.

 

Steering wheel. Read your owners manual. There's two levers, one a release to top, the one on the side, and one for adjusting the lower height, which is a lever underneath the steering column.

 

Rear belts: One of the belt latches has CENTER or an arrow on it. Only the center lap belt will work on it. The other two only work with their respective latches.

 

Horn Button. Turn the wheel so it's upside down. you will see 2 holes in the underside of it. Slip a phillips screwdriver in and loosen the screws. The Pad and button assembly should be loose, and you can jiggle it off the wheel.

Do your hazard lights work?

They share the same fuse as the horn.

Figured out the belts, one was pushed under the seat

 

The horn pad, doesnt have and screws underneath, this is the one with the clip thingies that are metal, i cannot figure it out

it likes this one http://www.donkeysarecool.com/img/GL-10/Gourmet%20Dinner%20020.jpg (not my pic but its just like it)

 

Thanks for the help!

how does it go on, the stupid thing keeps falling off on me, lol