Steering rack inner tie rod boot split open

[JPX]

My inner tie rod boot on the steering rack split open. I had suspected as much since I had heard an occassional pop in the suspension while turning and stopping.

 

After searching USMB, I found several useful threads, but none with the photos to show the total process. I guess I have the pleasure of doing this myself. So here is picture one.

 

One useful link:

Exploded diagram of the entire steering assembly.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=33450&highlight=steering+rack

 

And some close up photos of the inner tie rod from another forum: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=13485186#post13485186

 

So the plan is to stop by the dealer to pick up a $35 boot to replace the torn one and get a $26 inner tie rod from NAPA (dealer is $80). And a whole replacement rack is over $400.

[lmdew]

Back off the tie rod jam nut. Remove the tie rod (TR) cotter pin and nut. Unscrew the TR end. Count the threads or measure so you can reset the toe.

 

Remove the outter boot clamp. Slide the complete boot off.

 

Clean the rack end as much as possible. Reverse order and your done.

[johnceggleston]

Back off the tie rod jam nut. Remove the tie rod (TR) cotter pin and nut. Unscrew the TR end. Count the threads or measure so you can reset the toe.

 

Remove the outter boot clamp. Slide the complete boot off.

 

Clean the rack end as much as possible. Reverse order and your done.

 

after you back off the lock nut, use spray paint to mark the tie rod end in addition to measuring and counting. i have also seen a hack saw used to mark the threaded end. you just want to make sure it goes back together the exact same way so you don't have to buy an alignment.

[idosubaru]

i've messed with racks, hubs, control arms and such before. like they said, mark and count well and you won't need an alignment. i've done 100's of thousands of miles and never get alignments. i'm waiting for uneven wear to prompt me to do it, but it hasn't happened yet???

 

i'd consider getting a used rack myself. i'd see how new i could get from the yard for under $100 to save myself some time. failure is so rare i'd imagine these are easily available cheap. someone on here probably has one they'll sell you cheap. if i didn't just send my two EJ parts cars to the yard i'd have one for you.

[idosubaru]

these guys in Rancho-Cordova 1-916-638-5773, have a few of them for $65 as new as 1999 (that will fit your vehicle). they have a bunch, might come down on price?

[yohy]

JPX,

 

Put an inner tie rod end on my ’97 recently (passenger side). The only real pain was the lock washer that secures the tie rod to the rack; it sits behind the ball and socket joint and is bent over end of the tie rod. You can see it clearly in the second picture at http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=13485186#post13485186.

 

After getting the lock washer straightened out, you have to unscrew the tie rod from the end of the shaft. If I remember, I couldn’t get an open-end wrench on the flats (some suspension component was in the way), so I used a pipe wrench to break it loose, worked fine. By luck of the draw I could get to the flats when I put it back together. Now they do make a specialty tool (yes an inner tie rod wrench, see: http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/lis45750.html) but the pipe wrench seemed to work just fine.

[JPX]

I got a little delayed on starting this replacement due to a "re-do" of a shifter adjustment on my VW Cabriolet.

 

But last night I got started and was able to remove the inner tie rod. I was pleased that the boot clamp and spring are reusable (no zip ties or new clamps needed).

 

And boy that lock ring was something else.....a hammer and chisel got me through that. I used large vise-grip pliers to turn the tie rod and it was surprisingly easy to remove.

 

I'm thinking of NOT replacing the outer tie rod while everything is in pieces. It moves smoothly and easily - arguably maybe a little too easily. It is not binding or leaking and the boot is good with plenty of grease.

 

So tonight's plan is to measure out the threads to the existing length and put it all back together.

 

One question - should I add additional grease (and what type?) to the clump that is already on the new inner tie rod?

[JPX]

Well yesterday I finally put everything together. With any luck, my measurements were close to the original length. Since I plan on replacing the struts soon, I will get the alignment done then.

 

This is a comparison of the Subaru OEM inner tie rod and the NAPA version. I like the additional flats on the inner end - makes it easier to crank on it when re-installing (and removing which I hope doesn't come up again:brow: )

 

 

I decided not to add extra grease since there was plenty already smeared on the joint. Anyway, everything is all back together.

[yohy]

Just curious, how was the play in the ball and socket joint? Oh, nice job cleaning up the old one.

[JPX]

Just curious, how was the play in the ball and socket joint?

 

The old one was loose and floppy. It didn't have a "rattle" quality that I could feel and surprisingly little grindage. The joint was clearly contaminated though.

 

But the sound of the rod banging on the outer rim of the socket made a very distinctive sound. And I recognize that sound as the "bang" I'd hear sometimes when stopping.

 

The new one is much firmer. In fact you could hold the socket end and the rest of the rod would stay straight.