yohy

Sorry the link doesn't seem to work, let's try it one more time: http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f88/c-compressor-clutch-95352/ If it doesn't work, go to the search page of subaruforester.org and enter 95352

I would suggest reading through the following: http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f88/c-compressor-clutch-95352/ and yes, there are four pages. It seems the clutch on the a/c wears and when the gap exceeds spec it will fail to engage. The solution is to pull the clutch and remove shims. I did this two years ago and solved the problem (fingers crossed). Oh, I did a recap of my experience on post #39.

Check out this post: http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f88/noise-back-13202/. According to ferret (#7); "This is common. Remove your grill and unplug the sonealert (beeper). It's mounted front and center to the center upright bracket. Dry out the connector and apply a coating of dielectric grease to it and put it back together. Some moisture, salt ( allowing conduction ) or other matter allowing the water to conduct, gives a low resistance path to the ground. So the sonealert makes a low volume, high pitch noise until the connector drys off again." or this post: http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f108/hello-help-25903/ again ferret to the rescue: "Look in the manual for replacing one of the bulbs in the headlight. It has How to remove the grill. The 'sonealert' ( Beep Beep ) when you lock the doors has a high resistance to ground thru it's connector from salt and water. It's mounted front and center behind the grill, on the center vertical upright. Simply disconnect the connector, clean it thoroughly, coat it with some Dielectric grease, and put it all back together. Common problem .... IF you have GOOD Young Ears !!!! I can no longer hear the high pitch when someone comes to me with the problem."

To quote post #6 on this thread (http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f88/ac-fine-till-its-hot-57077/): A common problem on all compressors w/ on-demand clutch is failure of compressor to engage due to wear of clutch plate, causing clutch plate gap to become too large. This gap results in coil magnetic field being too weak to pull the plate in against the spring. You can verify if this is the problem by rapping the clutch plate sharply w/ a stick when AC should be running. If the clutch plate closes and AC works, you've verifed that clutch gap is too large. Fix is easy also. Remove clutch plate (usually a 10mm head size bolt) and remove a single thin shim from beneath the clutch plate. Measure clutch gap w/ a feeler gauge to verify it is w/i spec, usually 15-25 mils. Also check out this thread as it will contain some valuable how-to steps: http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f88/c-compressor-clutch-95352/ Hope this helps.

To all who have responded. I am grateful to the folks who are active contributors to this forum, I know when I am stuck, there will be a good hearted soul who is willing to take the time to respond. Oh and I also love the "exchange" of ideas. Thanks again to all.

GD, Thank you for your reply, insight and suggestions. My dad, a Georgia Tech graduate who holds a PE license, contends that lack of confidence or understanding tends to lead one to overbuilding or over engineering. With that, as a shade tree mechanic versus yourself, a professional, I tend to over compensate for my lack of experience by being as precise (or anal) as I can. With that, I stress over things like torque specs, while you would just tighten to a known range and be done, I search for the elusive specification. I guess I just have to have more confidence. Thanks again.

Can anyone give me the torque spec for the caliper body to the caliper support. '09 Legacy SE non-turbo. I am working on my son's car and don't have a service manual for this specific car. I have one for the '93, '97, '03 and the '04, but not this one. I have cross referenced to what I have but they seem to vary between 27.5 and 19.5 ft lbs., I would just like to get it right. Thanks.

No problem. Again, from what I can remember, I didn't have any issues with the breakdown/buildup except for having to reposition the compressor to get a better purchase. The verticle orientation of the spring is self-explanatory and it really sits in the seats one way.

I did the front struts on my '93 Legacy and all four on my '97. First tip I can remember (it's been a few years since doing the '97) is when you remove the brake lines from the strut, cut the bracket that holds the line, this will save you the hassle of breaking lose the connection at either end of the brake hose to pull the line through the hole in the bracket. Then when you install the new strut, do the same thing, cut the bracket, slip the hose into the cutout and then bend the bracket back. Second is this, if you are using the typical spring compressor it will barely compress the spring enough to free it from the upper/lower spring seats. I had to reposition the compressor a few times to get it right. Lastly when you reassemble, make certain you get the spring seated in the upper/lower spring seats correctly (very self explanatory) and the spring is oriented correctly, flat end is on the top, inclined is on the bottom. I can send you the FSM section on strut replacement if you would like (from my '97 FSM). From what I remember, overall very doable, on your end, considering your level of expertise, should be a non-event.

John, To answer your question #1, list is $242 and can be had online for about $175. Shipping may be an issue so if you can purchase locally..... http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getLocator&siteid=214077&chapter=ARL7601&appSectionid=2695&groupid=2706&subgroupid=2707&componentid=2928&make=32&model=Forester&year=1999&graphicID=7601310&callout=1&catalogid=2

Try this: http://www.endwrench.com/main.php?smPID=HTML::parts.html then scroll down till you see: For more about Genuine Subaru Maintenance Parts and application charts, click the Icon to the left. it will down load a .pdf with all of the parts numbers, but careful, it's like 12 megs. BUT, it will give you all of the part numbers you are looking for.

Sorry ‘bout that. In ’95 AWD was not offered on the base Legacy but was an option on the “L” and standard on the LS and LSI as well as the Outback. Guess I “assumed” too much but would be worth checking on.

I put a rear door on my '97 L for $150; it was even the same body color so it was a plug and play install. One note: the 95 Legacy was FWD; I might suggest looking for one with AWD. Those Syracuse winter storms can be vicious!

63269SA001--STAY, REAR GATE FOR RIGHT SIDE 2003-2008 FORESTER 63269SA011--STAY, REAR GATE FOR LEFT drivers side 2003-2008 FORESTER Give those numbers a try.

cagranitz, rust in this location on the Subarus is quite common, although a bit premature on a 2001. Both my '93 and to some extent on my '97, had rust in those areas. One other trouble spot is the dog leg behind the front wheel opening. The attached picture is what I pulled out of my son's '03 Impreza when I put splash guards on it last summer. I have found this point a catch all for road dirt on all of my Subaru's including the Legacy, Impreza and the Forester. Everytime I wash any of the cars, I direct a strong stream of water into the front fender. As strange as it sounds, open either of the front doors and you will see openings into the front fenders (around the hinge locations), just direct a strong stream into the fender openings. If you have never done this, get ready to be blown away by what you flush out, really.

The FSM for my "97 shows "flat-bladed" screwdriver in the removal step...although they do have the warning "Be careful not to scratch mating surfaces"--DUH!!.

Read through the following post, it should answer your questions (hint:the pin with the rubber bung goes in the bottom hole): http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=82176

amartin, Are you replacing the backing plates because the outer splash shield has rotten off? If so, just cut what ever is remaining and call it done. I had that issue on my '97 L and after much consternation and research, I found many posts where folks in that situation just removed what ever was remaining with no apparent ill effect. In some cases, the splash shield were removed to make way for bigger rotors and again, with no issues.

It's strange, some cars don't have any problems and some it's constant, my '97 L was the worst. Go figure.

Perfect, glad I was able to help out. Oh, and I love those words, "This will be covered under warranty!" Just for reference, if you ever see a car with vertical scratches in the door glass, it's due to road grime getting caught in those pads.

Dang, I grew up in Skaneateles and would have loved to stopped by....but the current Maine location is a bit far. Take lots of pictures and notes, how-to's are always appreciated.

grossgary, yep on the older models, my last issue was with the '97 L. And davebugs, as mentioned, cleaning up the behind the clips is critical to them seating properly. I found quite a lot of buildup, brake dust, dirt and grime behind where the clips sit.

EndWrench had an article with regards to this problem: http://endwrench.com/main.php?smPID=PHP::article_detail.php&&RECID=358 and by the way, I have run into this issue before and can be a PITA to track down. Now I know and "bench test" the fit before getting the caliper on the car.

Appears so, as the part number is the same for both applications. These prices came from: http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=214077. 26296AA062 $79.95 $0.00 $57.56 Brakes - Brake components - Rear pads Rear pads, legacy 1995 - 1999 26296AA062 $79.95 $0.00 $57.56 Brakes - Brake components - Rear pads Rear pads, impreza 1995 - 1999

Realize you just ordered an ebay FSM but give this a try: http://pdftown.com/Subaru-Forester-2002-2004-Service-Manual.html