yohy

I can't believe they got that one wrong. I think the filter for that car fits most everything: 16546AA020 AIR FILTER ELEMENT FOR1993-1999 IMPREZA ALL 1.8 & 2.2 & 2.5 AIR FILTER ELEMENT FOR 1990-1999 2.2 LEGACY

28044AA001, give that a try. http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partdetail.php?partid=9504

A stubby phillips head will do the trick, or an offset style will also work. Kinda have to contort the body to see them (tougher when your overweight).

Looks as if I can cancel my next appointment with the shrink! Thanks to all who worked to get the site back up. We appreciate it.

Have driven Subaru's since '84, driving most of them well over 150K and have never had a fuel pump go bad. Now have had sending units fail regularly, but never the pump.

EVOthis, thanks for the instructions. That's what it looked like, but I am the master of missing the obvious. Thanks again.

When I did the background lights on the climate control panel on my '97 I used these directions and they were PERFECT. Again, I love pictures. http://www.randomsoup.com/how_acpanelbulbs.html

rob777, nipper's narrative will give you the steps, but being a visual person, the attached might help, although it's for my '97 Legacy, you should get the picture (bad pun). Oh and they call the instrument cluster a combination meter, go figure.

Try this (http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html#code%20alarm): Forester 1998 model: Programming or Overriding the Alarm when you have lost the remote Open driver's door. Turn ignition key to 'On' Press and *hold programming button* in (see diagram, button under dashboard) After 15 seconds the the door locks will cycle 3 times. Do not release Programming button Press lock (left) button the remotes to be programmed. The door locks will cycle one time. Exit programming mode by releasing Programming button under dashboard and turning key to off. Code Alarm Programming Button is under dashboard on the kick panel by the driver's left knee, left of the steering column. If you can't find it, it might still be tucked up in the wiring harness higher up in that same general area. The botton is recessed in a plastic ring (see diagram). This button must be pressed while programming remotes or if the battery was disconnected and the lights are flashing. On the web site there is a diagram of where the button is along with all kinds of other info.

Guys, finally had a minute to check out the neutral switch position. Now a few questions. Are there any tricks removing the switch from the tranny or is it straightforward? Does it sit above the fluid level? and I would think you would unhook the harness first at the connector, then remove, correct? I figure for under 20 bucks, I will just start with replacing the switch. Again, thanks for your input.

hankosolder2, really not certain of how common, but again, like you, glad it wasn't isolated to just me! Now I have done numerous rear brakes on Subaru's and have never run across this issue and still for the life of me, can't figure out why it happened. And then, why just the drivers side? Rooster2, curious when you do your rear brakes, if you can update us with your findings. Oh, is the noise coming from the drivers side?

EVOthis and sea#3, thanks so much for taking the time to "learn" the new guy. The reason this forum works so well is the input from folks like you. Thanks again. Now EVOthis, you mention having access to a scan tool to watch specific parameters. I do have a scan tool with real time data, but I am not certain if I can view the idle air control system. The following link will give you screen shots of what's available, can you give me some tips on what to look for: http://obddiagnostics.com/ScrnShot/Winscreen.html Again, thanks for sharing your knowledge.

OB99W, thank you for explanation, now I get it, same definition for the two codes. Wild stuff, and yes, the neutral switch then has relevance. I will give the check out the switch tomorrow. Again, thanks for your insight.

Guys, thanks for the quick replies. Now sea#3, you are correct, it is a manual, but curious if your advice is from experience as the FSM diagnostic procedure (attached) doesn’t mention this at all as it focuses mainly on the air intake system. EVOthis, when you mention you saw this for the first time yesterday, you mean a P0519 code caused by a neutral switch? Again, I really appreciate the time to give me your thoughts.

hankosolder2, you won't believe this but I just finished up a rear brake job on my '97 Legacy and had the exact same problem. Same side, same place. When I took it out for a test run, the noise sounded just like a wheel bearing ready to let go. I freaked out as there was no indication of a problem before I did the job. So back into the garage, take the brake pads off, look around, make certain they weren't binding, reassemble and road test. Same dang noise. This time I take everything apart, including the rotor. That is when I noticed the wear on the backing plate. I even switched the rotors to make certain one wasn't warped, nope both new rotors did it. Anyhow, I wire brushed everything down, cleaned it up, reassembled and this time NO noise. So what caused the rubbing...no clue. What did I do to eliminate it, I guess a good cleaning with a wire brush. But again, I can't tell you what cause they original clearance issue.

Folks, for the third time in the last few months, the check engine light came on with a code of P0519. Now, I know the code and the FSM steps to track down the issues plus I have searched all of the various forums for input. Questions: the last time it happened, I found a post with a response from a Subaru factory trained technician (with like 7,000 posts) who said “when he gets the code, instead of guessing, he just replaces…and this is where my memory fails me. I figure he says just to replace the IACV but for the life of me, I can not find that post or remember what he said. Anyone remember the post or can steer me to it? From there, has anyone had any success in diagnosing/repair this code as I have checked all of the obvious and the last thing will be to pull and clean the IACV? Second, the car is a ’04 Forester X with 51,000 miles, does anyone know if this is covered under the Powertrain Limited Warranty Coverage: 5 Years / 60,000 Miles or the Federal Specification Emissions Extended Defect Warranty Coverage: 8 Years / 80,000 Miles.

Just a thought. If you over torque the lug nuts you have the chance to warp the rotors, especially true if an impact wrench was used. I would back off on the lug nuts, then re-torque to proper specs.

Tim, Looks great, satisfying feeling to check one off of the "to-do" list. Hey, which ceramic pads did you use? Oh, and glad to help. Let me know if you need further. Again, nice job. John

Not meaning to stir the pot, but ran across this last night. Just more information to consider: Scratching the Surface: The Hazards of Rotor Turning http://oeqf.com/techinfo/index.htm

You got it, fairly straight forward but would recommend buying a manual for the information, although you can find most info on this site. Now for the gotchas: 1) Rotors have a tendency to become one with the hub, especially in the north where they salt the roads. Most rotors have two threaded holes in the “hat” of the rotor; you can use those holes to thread in 8mm bolts to force them off. 2) The two bolts that hold the caliper mount also have a tendency to rust bind in the backing plate. Lots of penetrating oil will help this. From there, I would highly recommend replacing your brake fluid as long as you’re at it. Now I have attached the brake service procedure (front/rear) from the FSM for my ’97, your ’99 should be very similar if not the same.

Tim, I was thinking about you when I started this job. Dang, as mentioned, I thought a few hours and I would be done, including lunch. Well northern winters took it toll on that darn dust shield. If it wasn't for that, I would have been done in the allotted time. Now it's time to sit back and think. And yes, I will give you the outcome. Oh, the backing plate (ref: splash shield #2 at http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getLocator&siteid=214077&chapter=ARL7521&appSectionid=2788&groupid=2513&subgroupid=2403&componentid=0&make=32&model=Legacy&year=1997&graphicID=7521470&callout=2&catalogid=2) is about a hundred bucks. BUT the issue is getting the fool thing off. Hence, the sitting back and weighing options.

grossgary, I've got the FSM but it doesn't describe the procedure for removing the backing plate. Now I do have a machine shop down the street, I might stop in and get his thoughts on fab'ing up something to weld to the meat of the backing plate. Again, only the outer ring of a lighter metal rusted away, the actual backing plate that holds everything is fine. I guess it doesn't hurt to ask. Thanks again for your thoughts/comments, it's appreciated. Oh, it have "searched" and found multiple posts on the drum to disk conversion, but nothing specific to the process of removing the backing plate. Lastly, if I take off the axle nut, will that hub/tone ring slide off on the splines of the axle or is it pressed into the wheel bearings? Just trying to figure out next steps.

grossgary, yep, it's the "benign" section, more of a dust shield that encircles about 3/4's of the heavy metal backing plate. I can't believe someone hasn't come up with some sort of replacement for that section as it's just tack welded to the backing plate. So you think just ripping the dust shield portion off and putting it back together is appropriate? I worry about road debris, etc getting in there. Now curious, if I did try to remove the entire backing plate, do you have to pull the hub? If so, is the hub pressed into the rear spindle or splined into it? Thanks again for the quick reply and all of your input.

HELP. Does anyone have the procedure for R&R of the backing plate for a rear disk setup? The car is a ’97 Legacy L awd, again with disks in the rear. Foolish me, I figure a couple of hours to do a brake job, pads/rotors, time for a sandwich. NOT! On the driver’s side, the outer ring of the backing plate just crumbled in my hands as I was wrestling with the rotor. I figured no big deal, probably a few bolts and I can replace the ring. Again, NOT! It appears the dang thing is integral to everything including the caliper support. Now I have the factory manual but for the life of me I can’t locate the procedure for removing it. I have stripped off all of the parking brake paraphernalia (another long story as I have NEVER dealt with a drum brake!) but it looks like the plate is trapped by the hub, please someone tell me I don’t have to pull the hub apart to get the plate off. So I am now on bended knee, someone please, the procedure for removal of that backing plate.

guidance1, I have the FSM for my '97 which should be the same as your '96. Shoot me a PM with your email address and I can send you the .pdf for the "Service Procedure/Steering Gearbox". This way you can look over the procedure and decide if you want to tackle it yourself.