subarari Posted October 27, 2006 Share Posted October 27, 2006 because I need something cheap and reliable to get me around. Anyways I had an 89 GL before and loved it, only problem was the radiator, timing belts and a bad wheel bearing in 6 years of ownership. So I'm going to look at an 86/87 DL locally w/150k for $1000 tomorrow and I was wondering if there is any general problem areas I should look for, besides the obvious ones when looking at a used car. Also opinions on the single range 4wd. I had dual range before and usually kept in high on trips to Tahoe. I know low will work, but I don't want to be stuck behind the big rigs going over the pass. Late:headbang: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subaru_dude Posted October 27, 2006 Share Posted October 27, 2006 because I need something cheap and reliable to get me around. Anyways I had an 89 GL before and loved it, only problem was the radiator, timing belts and a bad wheel bearing in 6 years of ownership. So I'm going to look at an 86/87 DL locally w/150k for $1000 tomorrow and I was wondering if there is any general problem areas I should look for, besides the obvious ones when looking at a used car. Also opinions on the single range 4wd. I had dual range before and usually kept in high on trips to Tahoe. I know low will work, but I don't want to be stuck behind the big rigs going over the pass. Late:headbang: you could always swap a d/r into it yourself. this one will be carbed since it's an 86/87 unless it's been converted, which I doubt. Look for rust of course... fender wells, frame rails, anywhere under the car. $1000 seems a bit steep... all depends on the condition of the car. If it's in practically perfect shape then in my opinion, it's still only worth about $800. Make sure to keep an eye on the oil pressure and listen to the engine of course and make sure it sounds healthy... no rod knocks. TOD is normal so... yeah. If the axles click then they'll need replaced soon. I've had bad luck with Subarus leaking diff fluid right onto the exhaust... so if you drive it a little while and it smokes alot and STINKS... it's diff fluid. I'm not too familiar with transmissions so I can't tell you exactly where they leak from. Rust is the main thing. If there's holes in the frame rails, it's definitely not worth $1000. Good luck. -Jordan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subarari Posted October 30, 2006 Author Share Posted October 30, 2006 Thanks for the reply Jordan, so I picked her up for 900, she's a decent car 152,000 and it even came with a thule roofrack w/ski carrier. Anyway I'm trying to figure a few things out. I bought the chiltons manual and it looks to be SPI, so no carbies. I did a compression check, 150 across all four and she runs like a top. It's like a dog trying to accelerate, a little sluggish, almost feels like a clogged fuel filter or something. I also have a ticking noise coming from the throttle body, it sounds like a sewing machine, any ideas on what that might be? Besides that it'll need a new M/C, strut, two new tires, and a valve adjustment. Not bad I guess for a $900 4wd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted October 30, 2006 Share Posted October 30, 2006 Run a D-check on the SPFI and clean the MAF/air filter for starters. Contemplate changing the 02 sensor just for best possible mileage, and it can help with the hessitation. They only run about $30, and you'll save that much in gas mileage in a month or two. The FI fuel filters don't get clogged much - they are quite large by most comparisons. It's probably a late 87 or 88 being it's SPFI. Definately not an 86 - no 4WD's (most especially a DL) would have had the SPFI in 86. 85/86 2WD's were FI. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subarari Posted October 30, 2006 Author Share Posted October 30, 2006 I cleaned the MAF tonight, but haven't taken it out yet for a spin. The O2 sensor is a good idea, I'll put that on my list. Any ideas on the ticking from the throttle body? What syptoms does a bad TPS demonstrate? Oh the build date is 10/86, I'm guessing an early 87. Thanks for all the info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted October 30, 2006 Share Posted October 30, 2006 SPFI injectors usually tick a little when they open. TPS could cause some hessitation, but I would test it first as it requires a multi-meter and a feeler guage to install another. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subarari Posted October 30, 2006 Author Share Posted October 30, 2006 This ticking happens when at idle, when I rev it up it goes away. I read in the manual that the injector actuates a ball to deliver fuel, so I'm assuming this sound is probably the pulses at idle? I'll read the maual and run some diagnostics later on. Thanks for the info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAYFLY Posted October 30, 2006 Share Posted October 30, 2006 As for the click, it may be the fuel pump. The valve clearances? I'm not sure you can adjust on this model. Thanks for the reply Jordan, so I picked her up for 900, she's a decent car 152,000 and it even came with a thule roofrack w/ski carrier. Anyway I'm trying to figure a few things out. I bought the chiltons manual and it looks to be SPI, so no carbies. I did a compression check, 150 across all four and she runs like a top. It's like a dog trying to accelerate, a little sluggish, almost feels like a clogged fuel filter or something. I also have a ticking noise coming from the throttle body, it sounds like a sewing machine, any ideas on what that might be? Besides that it'll need a new M/C, strut, two new tires, and a valve adjustment. Not bad I guess for a $900 4wd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted October 30, 2006 Share Posted October 30, 2006 This ticking happens when at idle, when I rev it up it goes away. Pretty much, yes. As you add RPM's, the injector is open at higher frequency, and eventually all the time. It's kindof interesting to note that the computer injector timing becomes almost irrelevant under high demand as the injector is open nearly constantly. Very much like the old VW CIS systems. You can get a cheap noid light and watch the injector pulses to see if they are in time to the ticking. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted October 30, 2006 Share Posted October 30, 2006 As for the click, it may be the fuel pump. The valve clearances? I'm not sure you can adjust on this model. Fuel pump is near the fuel tank, and no, you cannot adjust the valve clearance. Lifter tick is usually obvious, and generally doesn't go away just be reving it. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobGoob Posted October 30, 2006 Share Posted October 30, 2006 This ticking happens when at idle, when I rev it up it goes away. that to me sounds like the distributer might be going. ticking at idle but going away at a higer rpm. but depends on the ticking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subarari Posted October 30, 2006 Author Share Posted October 30, 2006 So today when I drove it the throttle response was much better. Last night I cleaned the MAF, and adjusted the throttle cable. I determined the ticking to be from the throttle body because when I put a screwdriver on it and put my ear to it the ticking is much more pronounced there than anywhere else on the motor. I'm gonna change the O2 sensor, hopefully that will aid with correcting any problems with the mixture. Thanks for the help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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