Are there any easy methods for fixing a drive boot thats cracked? I haven't ever replace them but I understand that it require pulling the driveboot or at least at one end. I imagine this isn't an easy job is it? are their any other options?

 

the car:

87 gl wagon 5sp dual range 4wd.

 

thanks

Pretty easy job really.

 

1. Put it on jack stands.

 

2. Remove the Inner lower control arm bolt.

 

3. Disconnect the sway bar link.

 

4. Knock the pin out of the DOJ cup with a 3/16" pin puch.

 

5. Pull axle off tranny.

 

6. Remove old boot from DOJ cup, pop out the cir-clip and remove the cup.

 

7. Remove spring clip from end of axle and slide the joint off.

 

8. Replace boots

 

9. Reassemble in reverse order. (remember to grease stuff properly)

 

There's some info that will be usefull in my axle write up. Take a look here:

 

http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/axle_rebuilding.html

 

Don't even have to pull the tire off.

 

GD

you may have seen split boots that are sewn or glued together - they're pretty much crap.

 

read

Ed's writeup in the middle of this link. Good luck!

sry for my nieveness but whay is the DOC?

Double Offset Joint - it's the inner joint on the front axle. Outer joint is a CV, or Constant Velocity Joint. Both are technically CV's, but the DOJ is a special type of CV.

 

GD

axle work isn't all that bad. a stout socket or impact wrenches help with the axle nut if you're taking it off, it can be a real beast and often breaks 1/2" socket wrenches and breaker bars (at least in MD they do!).

 

if time, tools, weather, and $ are an issue then just leave it. i've put 50,000 miles on front clicking, busted boots before. if you're into offroading or have a lift on your soob then you'll want to replace it sooner.

people have been known to use duct tape, occasionally.. in order to get by

i've seen saran wrap too!

 

failure due to a torn boot is so unlikely i don't think it's worth the effort. but that's from the guy that puts 50,000 miles on them after they start clicking!

i've seen saran wrap too!

 

failure due to a torn boot is so unlikely i don't think it's worth the effort. but that's from the guy that puts 50,000 miles on them after they start clicking!

 

I've noticed it depends on the model somewhat. The EA81's will destroy a joint (especially the DOJ's) real fast without a boot. The EA82's are much better. Both the inner boots on my sedan are shot, and I have no inclination of fixing them till the axles are completely wasted. Then I'll replaced them with GCK's.

 

GD

interesting, the only EA81 i've worked on this summer had torn boots and was much louder than i would have expected and his car only has 80,000 miles on it. why would EA81's deteriorate quicker? closer to the ground, smaller?

 

the original posters 87 wagon would be an EA82?

the original posters 87 wagon would be an EA82?

 

Yeah - it is.

 

I was just mentioning it for posterity I guess. I suppose it's due to flatter axle angles - both from the reduced stock ground clearance, and the longer axles. The joints themselves are virtually identical. The higher angles of the EA81's make them beasts off-road, but it doesn't do nice things to the axles. I've gone to using the GCK's in my EA81's as they are just amazingly well built with all new parts.

 

GD