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Will a wrx turbo bolt to a EA82T?

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  • Author

Yupe 510's are sick but cost sooo much now... Cool a member in az. You go to the pavillons car show?

wish Ejs used distributers.. bah... I could make it work easy that way

Yupe 510's are sick but cost sooo much now... Cool a member in az. You go to the pavillons car show?

Every once in a while... I dont like the STI guys... almost all of them have either done a BOV or... well thats about it!!! I will definately be there when my broinlaw gets his RS back to gether.... ITS GONNA BE SO AWASOME.... intime........................... But yeah I go there ocassionaly... I dont make it a ritual... its not exciting enough... about the only supercool thing there is the muscles and the bugs!!!! never any oldschool subies there, lest ive never seen any... Not until I show up that is!!!

  • Author
Every once in a while... I dont like the STI guys... almost all of them have either done a BOV or... well thats about it!!! I will definately be there when my broinlaw gets his RS back to gether.... ITS GONNA BE SO AWASOME.... intime........................... But yeah I go there ocassionaly... I dont make it a ritual... its not exciting enough... about the only supercool thing there is the muscles and the bugs!!!! never any oldschool subies there, lest ive never seen any... Not until I show up that is!!!
Yea most of the sti's are stock there. But few the wrx's have alot of work done to them. Some nice evos few supras there its ok. I go maybe once a month or so.
wish Ejs used distributers.. bah... I could make it work easy that way

A guy here in Australia modded a disty to fit the EJ22. Search for Wonder Brumby. Or look for his posts, I think his name on here is Matty B

what does it bolt too? the back of the head..??

 

I'm searchinf ord escort disty right now! but if you know i'd like to hear that too!

okay found that... I could actually put in an Ej that way... hmm.

all the post relate to distys and carbs though, but I don't see any reason an Ej with disty couldn't work in my XT with very little wiring.

It still isn't going to be much more wiring to install the EJ like normal. I see no reason to go to a distributor unless you're using a carb and want to ditch the ECU. A disty will probably makes things more of a headache, as the ECU might not deliver fuel if you don't have the proper ignition setup. Plus, you'd lose the ECU's ability to control knocking. Not to mention, the EDIS is probably a bit more efficient than a dizzy.

with a disty I could just use the ea82t ecu. I've sen many higher power motors go in lower power cars and use the same ECu. I'd have to upgrade my fuel pump and FPR. with a disty I can runa ej22t and keep my digi dash and all. only real thing i think would be a problem would be that I believe the

ea82t uses the disty for cam reference. but I've also seen vehicles (on OBDII)

run with no cam sensor.

 

 

unless the wiring really easy.. I would never drive the car again, lol...

Good luck with that... you'd have to pretty much reengineer your fuel system to use the EA82T ECU. Then I don't think it'd have the fuel mapping for an EJ22T.

 

You'd have to use the EA82T Maf (Easy, as long as the intake tubing is the same diameter, which it probably isn't), EA82T TPS, AAV, IAC, etc.

 

Basically the only thing on the EJ22T intake you could keep is the fuel injectors. Everything else is different.

 

Oh, and you would need a dizzy with the same CAS as the EA82T one. Not sure if the escort dizzy uses the same or not. Subarus will not run without a CAS signal.

It could work - wouldn't have near the power of the EJ22T in stock form though. Best bet is to go MegaSquirt and forget about the disty. Then you can run any engine you want.

 

GD

guess I'm going to have to give in and learn about MS... was really hoping that wouldn't have to happen, lol.

 

I'm good at mechanicals.. not wiring.. and I have no clue if I can even program MS.. it's like teaching an old dog.. ya know?

You don't have to program anything - you just have to setup the engine parameters. Fuel and timing maps - it's just a matter of plugging number into a chart. If you build a small air/fuel ratio meter and use your timing light to record the timing at various RPM's before you pull the engine it will give you some idea of what subaru had it setup for. Then you just use a cheap laptop on the passenger seat and dial it in by the seat of your pants.

 

Wiring is super easy since the MS uses an onboard MAP sensor. The rest of the stuff is fairly minimal, and if you get a relay board, and one of the pre-made wireing harnesses it's really simple. All the wires are labeled - it's printed every 8" or something right on the wire.

 

GD

itl get rid of your maf?? YES I WANT IT NOW!!!!

 

Yep - no MAF. It uses the onboard MAP, plus O2, Coolant Temp, And Intake Air Temp (same GM $8 sensor for both temps). And of course the throttle posistion sensor. The new version 3 stuff can control all your stock igntion setups too - it can even signal a regular coil like such as the EA series engines used, and can work with both types of FI distributors - hall-effect with mechanical advance, and CAS from the hot-wire cars.

 

Stock MAP sensor can also handle forced induction up to 25 psi boost, and sensors are availible that can handle up to 40 psi.

 

GD

Perhaps MS is what I need on the turbowagon to get rid of this stupid flapper MAF problems.

 

I've been doing reading on MS, and it actually doesn't look all that hard to set up. An A/F gauge would be very helpful I think.

 

From reading about it, you'd need an 87+ TPS, as the 85-86 TPSs don't have a varying potentiometer. Apart from that, everything else should hook up. Add MAP sensor and IAT sensor, delete MAF, then you can either add the GM temp sensor, or recalibrate MS for the CTS already on your intake.

 

Wouldn't be too hard if you don't mind wires. Even then, the wiring isn't difficult.

Perhaps MS is what I need on the turbowagon to get rid of this stupid flapper MAF problems.

 

Well - that would definately cure it :rolleyes:

 

I've been doing reading on MS, and it actually doesn't look all that hard to set up. An A/F gauge would be very helpful I think.

 

From reading about it, you'd need an 87+ TPS, as the 85-86 TPSs don't have a varying potentiometer. Apart from that, everything else should hook up. Add MAP sensor and IAT sensor, delete MAF, then you can either add the GM temp sensor, or recalibrate MS for the CTS already on your intake.

 

Yep - personally I would just use the GM stuff as you need one for the IAT anyway, so might as well use the same sensor for both. And they are cheap as dirt, and "in-stock" even in the most backwater parts store.

 

Wouldn't be too hard if you don't mind wires. Even then, the wiring isn't difficult.

 

If you use the MS relay board, and get a pre-made harness it's really, really simple. Half as much work or less than the SPFI swap.

 

But the BIG, BIG win is that you can drop in ANY engine you want later with almost no wiring at all. You never again have to touch anything under the dash - just hook up the cheap laptop, retune and drive on. It will solve your MAF troubles, and in 5 years when those STi front clips are cheap you don't even have to worry about getting the harness and ECU from the donor. Or go like my plan - JDM N/A EJ20 DOHC. They can be had cheap from the importers because no US market vehicle used them, and the harnesses and ECU's are hard to come by. But they are 150 HP stock. That's 20 HP more than the 22, and better mileage besides.

 

GD

MS sounds good, though its out of my budget for a while. I just wanna get the Turbowagon running good. About ready to just run wires for the MAF straight back to the ECU to rule out wiring.

  • Author

MS is badass for old cars. Like my supra I think im going to use it.

damn GD maybe you should go work for MS cuz I'm sold!!

  • 2 weeks later...
MS sounds good, though its out of my budget for a while. I just wanna get the Turbowagon running good. About ready to just run wires for the MAF straight back to the ECU to rule out wiring.

 

I have seen issues with the shielding around some of the wires, like some of the ones for the MAF have, shorting out the inner wires it is shielding. If you have a Factory service manual or at least the proper wiring diagram with connector details you can unplug the maf and the ecu and check continuity of the wires between. How did this thread get in here again?

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