85 wagon 4WD automatic ea82 carbed.

 

First I'd like to mention, this car has NOOOO power off the line, like NONE! Under accelleration from a stop it almost feels like the e-brake is on. And the uphills- fuggetaboutit, I have to drop into 2nd or 1st on the long uphills just to keep from rolling backwards (B-ham locals, think Alabama hill...). I thought this was normal for that car until I rode in another soob auto, same as mine pretty much, and it had many more balls.

 

Also, when driving in 2nd gear the engine sputters. Shift into Drive and the sputtering stops. It's not rpm related because I can hold the same rpm range in 1st or drive and the problem isn't there, just 2nd gear :-\ .

 

So I'm thinking tranny related, hence the slow accelleration speeds ect?

 

Any suggestions?

Check the vacume modulator. Check ATF level. A typical failure of the modulator is the diaphragm leaking. Bad enough, it will make the engine run crummy. Also, uses up ATF...

 

Does the RPM "stick" to the forward speed, or is the transmission slipping?

 

4000RPM at 65MPH is normal 3rd gear.

 

Below 3000RPM I downshift if I want power with my SPFI EA82s.

 

Upgrade to SPFI. Much better than carbed.

It's quite possibly the control valve assembly in the tranny. Tune up the carb and see if it helps, and definately check the modulator. If neither helps, then the control valve assembly in the tranny needs to be serviced. This requires dropping the pan and removing the entire assembly - taking it all apart, etc. Best done by a transmission shop that knows about such things. They are not for beginners.

 

GD

Check the vacume modulator. Check ATF level. A typical failure of the modulator is the diaphragm leaking. Bad enough, it will make the engine run crummy. Also, uses up ATF...

 

Does the RPM "stick" to the forward speed, or is the transmission slipping?

 

4000RPM at 65MPH is normal 3rd gear.

 

Below 3000RPM I downshift if I want power with my SPFI EA82s.

 

Upgrade to SPFI. Much better than carbed.

 

Where's the vacuum modulator located and what is it I'm checking for?

 

ATF level is fine, just checked it the other day- nice and pinkish looking still too.

 

Not sure what you mean by "Does the RPM 'Stick' to the forward speed...". The tranny doesn't really feel like it's slipping.

How about a timing belt jumped a tooth?

1) How old are they?

 

by chance does it have a cat?

2) Could it be plugging up?

 

 

3) When was the last time the plugs ect were examined/replaced?

 

 

4) Wild hair guess (WHG) has anyone had the distributer out?

The tranny doesn't really feel like it's slipping.

 

That's what I was trying to say - mind blank at the time...

 

 

The modulator is on the passenger side of the transmission, down low. There is 1 vaccume hose connected to it. Slightly behind it, is the 4WD solenoid, with wires. If you pull the hose off, and find transmission oil, it is bad. IT unscrews from the side of the transmission. Usually pliers will get it to turn, but damage it. It seals with an o-ring, so the new one does not have to be over tightened. Oil will come out with it removed. There is a small pin / rod in the hole that touches the diaphragm in the solenoid and the mechanisim in the transmission. It usually stays in the transmission, but could come out with the solenoid, so watch for it.

 

You could plug the vacuume line and take a drive - the shifting will be wrong, but the engine would not get oil in the intake. But you would be loosing ATF if it were leaking bad enough to make the engine run bad.

Sorry guys, guess I'm kinda new to these

3AT problems

 

ah-hum

 

may I politely say

 

you could be wolfin' up the wrong conifer

 

i.e.

all I'm say'in

 

No power off the line -> is it in first gear?

 

Try launching with the shifter in "2"

while moving shift to "D"

does it down shift?

Yes? Well then you are normaly starting in first gear.

 

as for

 

Bad vac mod => will suck ATF into the intake and make

clouds of white smoke.

Lowering the ATF fluid level

like Dave T said.

BTW

I have not seen one "leak a little".

 

Gov. problem - will not up shift when it should.

 

Governor is a rotatating centripetal device, as it spins faster a shuttle in it's body

"shuttles" to a position allowing fluid to be tranfered to the shifting clutch.

 

If what you say is happening at the speeds you infer.

 

I am sorry to reiterate

u b bakin' up da wong twee.

 

 

___________________

 

okay Doc, I go take my meds now

you could be wolfin' up the wrong conifer

 

I confer with the skipolator. I've got a 3AT 3-door that does the exact same thing. And it's SPFI. I've tuned it - new O2, new plugs, wires, etc. Replaced the TPS with another, cleaned the MAF then tried another one, changed out the CTS, etc, etc. I took it on about 10 drives in D-Check and the engine checks out. Has good power in 3rd on the freeway, and idles real nice. All this did help *some* but it still isn't right.

 

BUT - just like your's it wants to bog out when starting from a dead stop - especially on hills, but it's intermittant - almost like a valve in the tranny is sticking. I replaced the modulator, and swapped a different gov. both from a known strong 3AT to NO effect at all. It's definately starting out in 1st cause I can feel all the shifts (Caddilac it aint).

 

Following the troubleshooting in the FSM it lists the control valve assembly as the probable culprit. I got it going as good as I can, but since I have no intention of keeping the 3AT, I'm not about to drop the pan and service that sucker.

 

I sugest perhaps starting with all the above sugestions on the engine side - rule that out as much as possible first. Check all that timing stuffs, etc. Then if it's still hanging up, have the tranny flushed and the filter replaced. If that don't do it, then it might be time for a 5 speed swap.

 

GD

No power off the line -> is it in first gear?

 

Try launching with the shifter in "2"

while moving shift to "D"

does it down shift?

Yes? Well then you are normaly starting in first gear.

 

as for

 

Bad vac mod => will suck ATF into the intake and make

clouds of white smoke.

Lowering the ATF fluid level

like Dave T said.

BTW

I have not seen one "leak a little".

 

You bring up a good point which I forgot to mention in my first post. That is, when starting out in "2"- it starts in 2. In other words it doesn't start in first then shift to second like it should, it starts in second only :-\, like taking off in second in a manual tranny...

First gear starts in first, and Drive shifts through all 3 speeds.

You asked if starting in 2 and shifting to D if it downshifts, yes it does but its shifting into 3rd gear at that time right? Like its' supposed to?

 

Otherwise I replaced the heads about 20k miles ago, new timing belt, waterpump, disty came out and reinstalled okay. Again, these symptoms are all things that "came with the car". I just finally noticed while riding shotgun in another soob that mines a POS

In other words it doesn't start in first then shift to second like it should, it starts in second only :-\, like taking off in second in a manual tranny...

 

That is correct and normal. The 3AT is not an electronic transmission - it is entirely mechanical. Shifting to 2nd LOCKS 2nd in regardless of speed. It will start in 2nd, and it will NEVER upshift or downshift when 2nd or 3rd is locked.

 

GD