I've got an '81 DL 4WD hatch that I've been using for rallycross this year. At the last event, I had a ton of problems with the clutch slipping, so I decided to replace it. I ordered a clutch kit from AutoZone, but the clutch disk had the wrong size hole. The splines on the disk measured 3/4" and the input shaft of my 4-speed was 7/8". I got that resolved with a new clutch kit (this time from Advance Auto). I got the clutch installed and slid the engine back into place, but now the clutch doesn't operate correctly. The pedal won't depress at all. It feels like there's no give at all in the pressure plate springs. The only thing I can think is that maybe I put the clutch disk in backwards and that's messing it up somehow. I'm also having problems starting the car after reinstalling the engine. I've recent put a Weber on there and it was running great. I traced the issue to the fuel pump getting no power. What might I have done during the removal and reinstallation of the engine that would cause the power to the fuel pump to suddenly stop working? I could always rewire a new power source to the pump, but I'd rather find the root cause than put a bandaid on it.

 

So to sum up, 3 questions: Why would AutoZone have a clutch kit in their system that doesn't fit my car? Why won't my clutch work? Why doesn't my fuel pump have power anymore?

The first clutch was for a 2wd, probably the wrong part number in their computer.

It sounds like you might have a bad clutch, but I also noticed on the Beck-Arnley clutch I got, they had some sort of spacer inside the pressure plate, I'm assuming to prevent damage in shipping, but that had to be removed in order for the clutch to operate properly.

The first clutch was for a 2wd, probably the wrong part number in their computer.

It sounds like you might have a bad clutch, but I also noticed on the Beck-Arnley clutch I got, they had some sort of spacer inside the pressure plate, I'm assuming to prevent damage in shipping, but that had to be removed in order for the clutch to operate properly.

I figured it was probably something like that. They even specified 4WD in their system, but I guess it's just a mistake. I'm sure I'm not the first person to find out the hard way.

 

What kind of spacer was it? Where was it? I didn't notice anything, but I could have jsut been in a hurry.

So to sum up, 3 questions: Why would AutoZone have a clutch kit in their system that doesn't fit my car? Why won't my clutch work? Why doesn't my fuel pump have power anymore?

 

Because its Autzone. Though autozone is one of the better chains (dont even get me started about piss boys).

Can just be human error. A human has to pull it off the shelf.

 

nipper

I'll go to Checker/Shucks/Kragen/Advance, Napa, America's, O'Reillys, or any of the Parts Plus local stores before I go to AZ. The only time I go there is when they have something I can't get at any of the other stores, and it's not something critical, or that I can't get used.

The spacers were three little black rectangular pieces in the diaphragm spring.

I guess maybe I'll have to try to peek in there and see if I left some spacers. Is it even possible to install the clutch disk backwards? Would that cause symptoms like this?

It is, but generally that just makes the clutch stay engaged even with the pedal down, and usually doesn't affect pedal travel.

...Is it even possible to install the clutch disk backwards? Would that cause symptoms like this?

The disk is usually biased towards one end of the splined hub, oso that it is alnmost flush on one side (flywheel side) and with a protruding nose on the other (PP side). As 4x4_welder typed, it is possible but you are likely to know that there is a big problem (like PP bolts aren't long enough to engage flywheel without presing hard on the PP).

It is not really possible to install the disc backwards - the spring plate will not fit in the flywheel side. It will be 31 flavors of f'd up if you do, and I doubt the PP would even bolt on. There would be serious metal-on-metal sounds, and nothing would feel right. Not even a chimp would put one together that way - round peg, square hole for sure.

 

GD

It is not really possible to install the disc backwards - the spring plate will not fit in the flywheel side. It will be 31 flavors of f'd up if you do, and I doubt the PP would even bolt on. There would be serious metal-on-metal sounds, and nothing would feel right. Not even a chimp would put one together that way - round peg, square hole for sure.

 

GD

 

heheh never say never.....

 

 

 

nipper

It is not really possible to install the disc backwards - the spring plate will not fit in the flywheel side. It will be 31 flavors of f'd up if you do, and I doubt the PP would even bolt on. There would be serious metal-on-metal sounds, and nothing would feel right. Not even a chimp would put one together that way - round peg, square hole for sure.

That's what I was hoping. I don't think I put it in backwards, but that's the only thing I could think of that might be wrong. It didn't take any hurculean efforts to get the PP to bolt on, so I should be good there. I guess I'll try changing out the clutch cable and see if that makes any difference. If not I suppose it's time to pull the engine again and see if I left some spacers in there or something.

Let's backtrack on this a little bit-

Can you put an adjustable wrench on the clutch fork and move it to release the clutch? Or are you just not able to move it by the pedal? Is the pedal very low, with very limited travel?

If so, you may have a bad pedal assembly like I had on my 81 Hatch. Basically, the original factory piece is very weak, and if the cable seizes, it will bend the cable mount around to the point you cannot operate it anymore. There is no way to reliably fix the original assembly (I found out after pulling mine three times, welding various braces to it, etc), but you can get an upgraded piece for $70-someodd dollars from SOA. Just order a pedal support assembly without pedals, and a clutch cable for an 84 GL, and you will be good to go.

I do have a problem with the clutch cable (the original was secured with a pair of vice-grips and some hose clamps) but I think there's something wrong in the clutch assembly somehow as well. I tried actuating the clutch fork with a pair of large channel locks and it wouldn't budge. How much force should it take to move it? It felt like it was getting ready to bend, so I quit pushing on it. That's good to know about the weak assembly, though. I'll have to keep that in mind.

 

Are there any theories as to why I'm not getting power to my fuel pump after removing and reinstalling my engine? Where is a good place to start troubleshooting? I found a fuse in a holder under the dash labelled as "fuel pump" that was still intact, but that's as far as I've gotten.

If you were messing around under the dash, make sure the fuel pump controller is still plugged in. It's right above the fuse panel, and the plugs are pretty weak. Also, make sure your distributor is properly connected, and all wires are connected on the coil.

If you were messing around under the dash, make sure the fuel pump controller is still plugged in. It's right above the fuse panel, and the plugs are pretty weak. Also, make sure your distributor is properly connected, and all wires are connected on the coil.

I'll check that out, but I didn't start poking around under the dash until after I discovered I wasn't getting any power to the fuel pump (verified with a meter). What does the fuel pump controller do exactly? I was under the impression that the fuel pump just runs constantly when ingnition power is on.

The pedal won't depress at all. It feels like there's no give at all in the pressure plate springs.

 

when you installed the clutch did you make sure that the fork was set onto it's pivot. There is a round nub that the fork is suppose to rest on. If it's not properly on the pivot point, it may not have enough leverage to operate the PP.

 

BW

when you installed the clutch did you make sure that the fork was set onto it's pivot. There is a round nub that the fork is suppose to rest on. If it's not properly on the pivot point' date=' it may not have enough leverage to operate the PP.[/quote']

 

No I didn't check that specifically. Thanks for the tip, I'll be sure to look at that.

Take it from me, boys and girls, don't wait until the night before a race to try to work on your car. You'll end up rushing to finish and then you'll do something stupid like intall a clutch disk backwards. It is possible and easy to do (at least with the kit that I got) and it won't work very well if you do it.