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ea882 into ea81 chassis


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EA82 will physically fit in an EA81 chassis pretty easily.

 

Converting to a turbo though, is a lot of work.

You need:

EA82 Turbo Motor

Turbo and associated exhaust

Wiring, ECU

A crossmember from an EA81T so the exhaust can clear it.

well, the turbo will come with the motor(stock), and i believe i can get the wiring for the motor some where. as for the exhaust, can i just do a custom re-route like i allready have on my car? or does it necessairly need to be the EXACT measurements? and if i do that, can i still keep my lower cross-member? because i want to keep welding and cutting to a minimal.

 

 

ps: the motor will fit on to the original mounts correct? or will i need new ones mounted in a new location? plus will the tranny of my old engine fit onto the new one?

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That would be a fun buggy, if you are in a place where ea81s didn't do so good. I am certain the ea82s had more power.100k in an ea81 was a very good one. Ea82s however.... much longer lasting even with mistakes.

Oh wait you said "ea882". The 882 cubic inch flat four was a big one.. don't know if that will work or not.Although the pistons from a 425 cat fit nicely, with an optional jake brake when hauling heavy loads. :confused: For those unkowing I am indeed just kidding. Although the first flat four 3 main bearing was 5.9 litres... Subaru needed five mains for ....? oh no. Paranoia again, like an egr valve.

Would love some photos of an ea81/2 swap. :)

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That would be a fun buggy, if you are in a place where ea81s didn't do so good. I am certain the ea82s had more power.100k in an ea81 was a very good one. Ea82s however.... much longer lasting even with mistakes.

Oh wait you said "ea882". The 882 cubic inch flat four was a big one.. don't know if that will work or not.Although the pistons from a 425 cat fit nicely, with an optional jake brake when hauling heavy loads. :confused: For those unkowing I am indeed just kidding. Although the first flat four 3 main bearing was 5.9 litres... Subaru needed five mains for ....? oh no. Paranoia again, like an egr valve.

Would love some photos of an ea81/2 swap. :)

:confused:

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:confused:

 

Sorry - pay no attention to our resident moron.....

 

Anyway. To answer - you will have to cut the frame rail on the drivers side to fit the engine - the back of the valve cover where the distributor is will need about 3/4" deep x 3" long removed from the frame rail.

 

You also need a lower radiator hose from a 92 to 94 Loyale (it's the "s" shape you'll need), and the upper hose will be a 90 Loyale lower hose cut down to fit.

 

Wireing is going to suck - you'll pretty much be on your own, but you'll want the entire front harness from a donor, and then build a piggyback MPFI harness from it and just supply it with power and splice into the required lines from the EA81 harness. MegaSquirt would be easier.

 

Other than that, it will fit ok. You will also want to use the 5 speed from an EA82 as the EA81 4 speed isn't going to cut it.

 

GD

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i read somewhere around here that the motor is too wide and won't fit without some slight alterations to the frame rails, i understand this as the ea82 is wider that an ej motor and i have about a quarter inch or so of room on either side of my motor

 

and if the ea81 d/r can't hold up to an ea82t somebody needs to look at the ej swaps using the ea81 trans, i'm sure if you are pushing the limits of the motor it may decide to say buhbye but it should be fine, if a 3spd autotraggic can hold 94hp why wouldn't a manual hold 111hp

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and if the ea81 d/r can't hold up to an ea82t somebody needs to look at the ej swaps using the ea81 trans, i'm sure if you are pushing the limits of the motor it may decide to say buhbye but it should be fine, if a 3spd autotraggic can hold 94hp why wouldn't a manual hold 111hp

The 4 speeds have a weak linkage - causes them to blow reverse gear (the 5's reverse is also weak, but the linkage is superior enough that it's rarely a problem as it's easier to get it fully engaged. Partial engagement due to sloppy linkage is the cause of reverse failure). And they suffer from 3rd gear syncro failure much past 100k miles. Add to this the lack of a decent mid range gear (3rd on the 5 speed), and a low range that's only 1.45:1 to the 5's 1.59:1 and the 5 is far, far better suited to any conceivable swap.

 

GD

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The 4 speeds have a weak linkage - causes them to blow reverse gear (the 5's reverse is also weak, but the linkage is superior enough that it's rarely a problem as it's easier to get it fully engaged. Partial engagement due to sloppy linkage is the cause of reverse failure). And they suffer from 3rd gear syncro failure much past 100k miles. Add to this the lack of a decent mid range gear (3rd on the 5 speed), and a low range that's only 1.45:1 to the 5's 1.59:1 and the 5 is far, far better suited to any conceivable swap.

 

GD

 

points taken, i had one with about 220k on it a few years back and never had a problem,

 

speaking of the linkage when i pulled the trans out of the brat i noticed why mine had so much slop, somebody had removed the spring clip and replaced it with a cotter key...

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speaking of the linkage when i pulled the trans out of the brat i noticed why mine had so much slop, somebody had removed the spring clip and replaced it with a cotter key...

 

The original setup used two spring roll pins - one inside the other, and then a cotter pin inside both of those. The problem is that the roll pins flex and wear out the hole in the trans shift rod - which isn't easily replaceable. Most people drill it larger, cut slots in the shifter tube, and bolt it down as hard as they can. Sadly, even that has come loose for us eventually. There's no good fix IMO but to weld the sucker solid and replace the whole stinkin tranny with a 5 speed when it's shot. I abhor the 4 speed's - I've got THREE blown 4's in my garage. Once you go 5, you won't want anything else - trust me. And my 5 speed Brat looks 100% stock inside plus I can actually maintain 25 MPH at a decent RPM :rolleyes:

 

GD

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No need to modify frame rails to put EA-82 into EA-81 vehicle. You have to move the hill holder towards the firewall the distance of it's mounting holes, but that's about it. You'll have about 3/8" clearance on both side of engine when it's sitting in there. http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c264/TomRhere/82%20BRAT/EA-82framerailroom.jpg That's the PS view of clearence, DS is the same.

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No need to modify frame rails to put EA-82 into EA-81 vehicle. You have to move the hill holder towards the firewall the distance of it's mounting holes, but that's about it. You'll have about 3/8" clearance on both side of engine when it's sitting in there. http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c264/TomRhere/82%20BRAT/EA-82framerailroom.jpg That's the PS view of clearence, DS is the same.

I'm not sure why, but mine didn't turn out that way. I had to cut the rail to make it fit, as well as move the HH back. I should get a pic I suppose, but it's still so close on the drivers side that I really should remove a bit more from it - I removed about 1/2" x 3" section, and it's still only maybe 1/8" or less away from the rail...

 

Perhaps it's partially because I did the 5 speed at the same time, and the 5 speed is tilted back slightly to clear the tunnel. It's not a lot tho, so it can't account for all of the difference.

 

I also had to slot the holes in the crossmember like the folks that do the EJ swap have done. The mounts were haveing none of it trying to shove them into the stock slots. I also pulled it a bit to the passenger side to try and gain a bit more room on the drivers side..... but really you shouldn't do that - it needs to sit centered or the axle's and tranny will be all crooked.

 

That was my experience anyway.

 

I beleive it's best to say that the fit is EXTREEMELY tight. To the point that slight variations in your overall install (engine mount rubber deterioration, tranny alignment, etc, etc) *may* require some cutting to be sure the engine won't smack the rail under acceleration.

 

Passenger side is no problem for two reasons - 1. The cylinders are physically farther forward, and 2. The distributor makes the drivers side extend farther backward.

 

There would be NO problem at all if the disty was on the passenger side cam like the EJ was designed.

 

GD

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No need to modify frame rails to put EA-82 into EA-81 vehicle.

 

Unless the OP is wanting to swap an EA82 into a GEN 1 car (which is what they have) with an EA81, then I believe it is too wide. I could be wrong, but I think I remember it that way, correct me if I'm wrong.

 

So anyway, just for the sake of asking.... what car is the swap in?

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Unless the OP is wanting to swap an EA82 into a GEN 1 car (which is what they have) with an EA81, then I believe it is too wide. I could be wrong, but I think I remember it that way, correct me if I'm wrong.

 

So anyway, just for the sake of asking.... what car is the swap in?

a wagon like this:

 

 

subie engine front 1.jpg

 

subie engine front 2.jpg

 

subie engine front 3.jpg

 

i removed alot of stuff from it allready. and was doing a small wire tuck. how does it look on the stock engine?

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That's not an EA81 - it's an EA71, and the EA82 won't fit in there without major headaches. You will have to notch the frame rails out by at least 2" on both sides and reinforce them.

 

GD

my bad. how hard is it to do something like this

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in order to fit an EA82 of any sort into a gen 1 vehicle, the frame rails have to be notched out for the valve covers to fit into the engine compartment. I've seen a gen 1 Brat with an EA82T that was modified in it but it took the guy a lot of hours to do so. He even put a single range 5-speed EA82 4wd tranny in it as well. I remember when this individual left WCSS6 and got pulled over for speeding in it.

 

So can it be done? Yes it can be done but not without a lot of modifications and if you're not feeling very comfortable doing tons of fab work with welders, metal lathes and such, then this is not a swap for you. An EJ22 will fit inside the frame rails on a gen 1 BUT its a very tight fit with like 1/2" of clearance on either side of the valve covers IIRC.

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