dome24 Posted January 27, 2007 Share Posted January 27, 2007 Ok start with the basics, 97 Impreza Coupe, 99 Leg no OB struts, 99 Forrester Coilsprings, "professionally alligned", $80 range:eek:, to no where within spec but its to much fun to really care right now, and it drives fine, but come summer time im gonna need it fixed. Looking at it I believe that the trailing arms were longer it would help the castor issue, along with maybe camber bolts to help on that end, maybe the bars that run from the diff mount area to the lower part of the caliper, sorry i don't know all the part names:dead:. but these http://images.andale.com/f2/104/128/12637619/1141672870630_67640ill.jpg What i need to know is if the parts from a forrester or an outback/Leg would be longer or not, im pretty sure they'd at least fit, subi's are lego's as i already know ( i already have parts from 5 different Subi models on my Impreza Brighton Coupe:headbang:) But before i go spending more money/time on parts i want to at least have an idea if they are gonna give me what i want. Pete "rubber side down" :burnout: :burnout: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted January 27, 2007 Share Posted January 27, 2007 I think they are the same height wise. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Free Range Posted January 28, 2007 Share Posted January 28, 2007 I know some stuff about the legacy vs outback, so imp vs forrester should be very simmilar. Not sure if the legacy outback stuff will bolt onto an imp, but the outback stuff does have different bushings and trailing arms in the rear, and different mounts on the outside of the control arms. also a 10mm body lift (spacer on the front engine crossmember) from '96-'99, If it was me, I'd go take measurements from your car and compare to a gen1 forester, these parts should interchange, especially the trailing arms and rear control arms, camber bolts, also the swaybar mounts at the control arms are longer/different on the outbacks, so... In my experience with lifting leggie's (4 so far) I've only ever swapped struts and coils, never needed to swap any of the other stuff over, but if you wanted the complete package, well, keep swapping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dome24 Posted January 29, 2007 Author Share Posted January 29, 2007 I know some stuff about the legacy vs outback, so imp vs forrester should be very simmilar. Not sure if the legacy outback stuff will bolt onto an imp, but the outback stuff does have different bushings and trailing arms in the rear, and different mounts on the outside of the control arms. also a 10mm body lift (spacer on the front engine crossmember) from '96-'99, If it was me, I'd go take measurements from your car and compare to a gen1 forester, these parts should interchange, especially the trailing arms and rear control arms, camber bolts, also the swaybar mounts at the control arms are longer/different on the outbacks, so... In my experience with lifting leggie's (4 so far) I've only ever swapped struts and coils, never needed to swap any of the other stuff over, but if you wanted the complete package, well, keep swapping. I started with the struts, added the coils but now everything is just so out of whack, i just want it to allign straight and be safe. I found adjustable trailing arms which i think will help the camber, but the castor is still fooling me, everting ive found is saying that Trailing arms are all the same length so im still kinda stuck. PEte Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Free Range Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 any possability your setup is bent, I've trashed a few control arms and a trailing arm or two going banzi... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dome24 Posted January 30, 2007 Author Share Posted January 30, 2007 any possability your setup is bent, I've trashed a few control arms and a trailing arm or two going banzi... Anythings possible the way i drive:lol: but i nothing looked bent from underneath, i wish i had checked my bushings while i was under there but now i don't have access to the lift, so its back to floor jacks and 2x4's. After thinking about it for a while, i think im gonna order new control arms(the ones that run laterally) that come with new bushings and possibly adjustable, something like this http://www.rallysportdirect.com/shop/whiteline-wrx-sti-lateral-links-p-2543.html but i don't know what the lengths are for different models or if they are all the same length/width. I like these cause they are adjustable for differnt widths. But with the Trailing arm, im not sure what im gonna do. I don't know if they are longer on the bigger cars, forrester outback etc.. But if they arent' Maybe moving the stud ,that it mounts to, further back, or maybe just custom building the arms, then i just have to figure out some sort of bushing....:-\ Pete "rubber side down" :burnout: :burnout: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 let's see some pics of it. I can't imagine it's far enough out of wack to matter (safety wise). your higher center of gravity will be MUCH more hazardous than your alignment being off by a few degrees. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dome24 Posted January 30, 2007 Author Share Posted January 30, 2007 let's see some pics of it. I can't imagine it's far enough out of wack to matter (safety wise). your higher center of gravity will be MUCH more hazardous than your alignment being off by a few degrees. The higher COG isn't that noticible, right now it doesn't roll it just slides. But once i go back to big summer rubber we'll see how it goes, the forrester springs are pretty stiff, and i added strut top bars to help... The noise is getting worse by the day though, ive got to figure it out soon, Pete "rubber side down" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 I see no issue there. like I said, the COG will effect the handling alot more than that little alignment difference. besides, if you've lifted something, and are worried about the alignment being perfect, you've got your priorities backwards. what noise? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninjaben43 Posted February 1, 2007 Share Posted February 1, 2007 bump for the noise Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dome24 Posted February 1, 2007 Author Share Posted February 1, 2007 I have had a noise that comes from the right rear, i originally thought that it was a busted strut, replaced the stockers with Monroe sensa tracs for 99 Leg non OB, they wereabout 2 Inches taller from the top of the mount to the bottom of the spring cup. than the Imps Still had the noise and noticed that i could see the top nut move in the TopHat under compression so i replaced both rears with KYB Oem replacemnts. Still moved and stil made noise. When i added the 99 Forrester Coils the noise just got worse...I wasn't really expecting it to fix the problem but it defiently did get worse. Thinking about it the last things it could be would be the bushings in/or control arms, trailing arms, or maybe even the wheel bearing. I think if i added adjustable control arms with poly bushings it could kill two birds with one stone, noise and camber... i hope Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted February 1, 2007 Share Posted February 1, 2007 I still don't know what the noise is.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dome24 Posted February 2, 2007 Author Share Posted February 2, 2007 I still don't know what the noise is.... Neither do i but i figure if i put out all the symtoms and start replaicng $tuff, sooner or later ill find it... Pete "rubber side down" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted February 2, 2007 Share Posted February 2, 2007 Neither do i but i figure if i put out all the symtoms and start replaicng $tuff, sooner or later ill find it... Pete "rubber side down" yea, but if you describe the noise, we can help diagnose it, and save you some money.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninjaben43 Posted February 2, 2007 Share Posted February 2, 2007 clunk, clank, screech, bang?????? mooo? whizzz? splash? :lol: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dome24 Posted February 3, 2007 Author Share Posted February 3, 2007 yea, but if you describe the noise, we can help diagnose it, and save you some money.... Sorry i thought i already did then i went back and read the whole thread and realized i hadn't... Its a knocking or popping noise, like a dull metal to metal or something loose somewhere, thats why i brought up the moving top nut in the top hat. it happens whenever i hit a bump or sometimes as i pull away under acceleration. Increadably annoying sound, and its getting louder and more frequent:mad: Pete "rubber side down" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted February 3, 2007 Share Posted February 3, 2007 well, I assume you've checked everything. that sounds like the nut on the top of the strut isn't tight enough. that happened to my dad on our caravan, our spring compressors couldn't get enough tension off the spring, so no matter how much we cranked on the nut with the impact wrench, the tophat still wasn't tight enough, and would rattle under the weight of the car. I would check that nut first. it should not be able to move, at all. even without a spring on there, the tophat should not be able to move. whatever it is, I highly doubt it has anything to do with your minor alignment issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dome24 Posted February 3, 2007 Author Share Posted February 3, 2007 well, I assume you've checked everything. that sounds like the nut on the top of the strut isn't tight enough. that happened to my dad on our caravan, our spring compressors couldn't get enough tension off the spring, so no matter how much we cranked on the nut with the impact wrench, the tophat still wasn't tight enough, and would rattle under the weight of the car. I would check that nut first. it should not be able to move, at all. even without a spring on there, the tophat should not be able to move. whatever it is, I highly doubt it has anyhing to do with your minor alignment issue. Thats really what it sounds like, and with it moving in the top it makes perfect sence but I have tried to get that bolt as tight as i could with vise grips on the shaft and and impact gun on the nut, pretty damn tight. Is there supposed to be a washer on top of the strut between the strut and the top that pinches everything togethor that i maybe missed... does anyone have an exploded veiw of the rear strut or know where i can get one? Do you think that maybe i need another new Tophat cause this one has just been loose for a year? ps I was able to get enough tension off the springs with the compressor to keep the tension off the top hat while i installed them. I don't think the alignment issue is related to the noise, but is important cause its all related in the suspension world. Pete "rubber side down" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heathyvt Posted June 30, 2009 Share Posted June 30, 2009 Ah yes this noise, I'm running new 99 legacy spec front struts and foresters front springs on my 99leg L wagon. I get a hard core clunk/rattling noise. it has only gotten worse. Replaced sway bar, gonna do a control arm soon. If you figure out a cure for this let me know! I'm gonna try forester spec struts soon! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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