Valkaru Posted February 1, 2007 Share Posted February 1, 2007 All right, kids, you all seem to have lots of knowledge about realistic repair costs, needs, etc... and I am hoping to get a warmer feeling about a dealer recommendation. Brought my '01 OBW (2.5, 4EAT, 130K miles) in for annual inspection, they tell me it needs the oil pan replaced, transmission harness o-ring replaced, oil pump resealed from leaking wrist pin plug(s) and left side head gasket replaced (oil leak). While in there, they are going to replace the timing belt and water pump. The oil pan is corroding (soft and punky) where the dip stick hole pierces the pan, otherwise the entire pan does not even have scratched paint. The head gaskets (oil on left, water on right leaking), water pump and timing belt were replaced at 60K miles. They are telling me ~$2200 for the repairs in one smooth motion, not counting the oil pan which would be an additional $375. I can buy the pan for $65 all in, so will do that myself at the next oil change. Assuming nothing else is found when they pull it apart, is this a reasonable/realistic price? I have been running Mobil 1 since 8K miles and the car still runs strong and gets 26 MPG in winter with me driving a little more enthusiastically than many local Subie drivers:grin:. Your comments are appreciated. And, yes, I do intend to keep the car another ~2 years, and am the original owner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dickensheets Posted February 1, 2007 Share Posted February 1, 2007 Why do they think the headgaskets are bad? Does the car run ok - overheat? Get a 2nd opinion. rd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valkaru Posted February 1, 2007 Author Share Posted February 1, 2007 Why do they think the headgaskets are bad? Does the car run ok - overheat? Get a 2nd opinion. rd Left side has a small leak to the outside, no decrease in oil level over 5K miles (my interval using Mobil 1). The first set had each side leaking to the earth, small leaks but fixed on warranty that time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmanaenk Posted February 1, 2007 Share Posted February 1, 2007 you probably wanted to say that _valve cover_ gasket is leaking on the left? Water leaking outside - is headgasket though, and the side seems right . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted February 1, 2007 Share Posted February 1, 2007 if the gaskets are leaking then i don't know what choice you have. sounds like about the right price if they're replacing the gaskets, water pump, timing belt, etc. i'd ask them how long the gasket job is warranted if they blew a second time already, what's to say they won't blow again? makes me wonder if they even checked the heads, milled them or anything the first time around. i would bet they gasket slapped it.....pulled the heads and without any checking or milling they installed a new gasket. bad idea. i'd ask them this time if the price includes milling the heads. i think CCR sells "new" engines for under $3000. might want to call and ask them. if you spend $2,500 on this engine...it might be worth an extra thousand for a brand new engine with no issues and a great warranty. pretty sure that oil pan will be much harder to replace than you think. i'm not positive about your exact vehicle, but they usually require unbolting at least hte engine mounts...and i usually do the trans mounts to so as not to stress those. then the front of the engine/trans assembly has to be lifted up to allow clearance for the oil pan to come out. don't be fooled by visuals, what you can't see is that the oil pan has baffles in it and the sump protrudes down into it, so it doesn't just "pull off" like it looks from the outside. it has to be manipulated out and leaving the engine in place doesn't give you the room for that to happen. now...i could be wrong on your specific vehicle, but i'd check before assuming it's easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valkaru Posted February 1, 2007 Author Share Posted February 1, 2007 ...i could be wrong on your specific vehicle, but i'd check before assuming it's easy And that, Ladies and Gentlemen, is why I posted on this esteemed site:) Gary, thanks for the words of warnings. I grew up on a TR-3a, then small & big block Chryslers of the 60's, leaving major engine work to someone else after that. The pics do indicate the sump having a bit of plumbing, etc... Maybe I can get them to lighten up on the charges for replacing the pan at the dealer, but am also going to have a local shop quote me repairs. They recited hours of labor and the variance if other work happens at the same time. Never meant to say valve cover, although that is the type of leakage I am experiencing. No contaminated oil or antifreeze, just some dirt/goo buildup on the head where oil leaks. I will look into CCR as well, although someone still has to do the swap for me:( Tthanks everyone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted February 1, 2007 Share Posted February 1, 2007 a local shop might want to pull the motor to do the job and possibly replace the oil pan much cheaper since the engine is out anyway. worth a shot if price is an issue. oil pans typically don't do much more than seep so even if you left it for later i can't imagine it's that big of a deal. and frankly i think you said you don't have much oil loss between changes? if tha'ts the case much of what looks like an oil leak may be coming from somewhere else and just sticking to the edges of the oil pan? i'd probably trust a dealer more than any random shop, but if you have any good recommended shops or people you know, then i'd look into that. what you want is not the cheapest guy, but the most honest guy you can find, and don't assume dealers meet that requirement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted February 2, 2007 Share Posted February 2, 2007 Get a 2nd opinion. Tming belt, do the water pump, cam seals main seal and oil pump seals. I am afraid to ask, but was the timing belt done at 106,000 miles.? nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valkaru Posted February 2, 2007 Author Share Posted February 2, 2007 Get a 2nd opinion. Tming belt, do the water pump, cam seals main seal and oil pump seals. I am afraid to ask, but was the timing belt done at 106,000 miles.? nipper Don't be scared:grin: The timing belt was done at 60K, when they opened her up to replace both head gaskets on warranty along with the timing belt idler pulley. I paid for the new belt ($82 IIRC), but all else was covered. Kudos to the dealer for taking care of it (replacing the water pump at the same time, plus the oil and antifreeze change on their nickel). Could probably skip the belt this time, but might as well do it on the DREAM that this set of headgaskets will last more than 40K miles. Yes, I noticed the oil smell at 40K, antifreeze about 52K, not fault found at the dealer, had someone else do a pressure test and found the leak so the warratny repair occurred. Began smelling oil again at 95K, dealer said no faults found again:( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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