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differentiating carburetors

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What we're talking about: 84 hatch EA81 stock

 

How do I tell what carb I've got? I've read here and there about an adjustable (via ECU?) hitatchi; does that mean there's also a non-adjustable Hitatchi? What does the ECU adjust on an adjustable? I understand all the stock carbs were pretty worthless, but are there advantages/disadvantages? A search turned up a bunch of sticking throttles and snokles but nothing specifically for identification and advantages/dis.

 

Thanks! -Newbie

You have a Hitachi 2brl. You can make sure of this by looking down the carb and seeing if you can see two barrels. If its a feedback carb then its computer controled to an extent. You can tell if its a feedback one if there is an O2 sensor on your exhaust and a computer under you steering wheel. The hitachi as most people on this board will tell you is pain in the butt carb to get right..but if it is running right is a good size for the engine IMO. Choke problems and hessitation off idle seem to be the most common problems on these carbs but there are a string of other problems like sticking floats and worn throttle shafts..the list goes on. Its up to you whether you want to keep it or not. If its running good dont mess with it. If its not decide if you want to rebuild it or replace it with a weber.

You could also have a stock carter-weber.I think it came in both flavours in 84 as well.It is a 1 bbl.Slightly better gas milage and low end response than the 2bbls.

I didnt say the carter-weber because i had the impression that 83 was the last year for that. My car had the carter-weber. The main problem with those is low end hessitation when cold or warm. They do have a bit better pick up off idle cause if the larger main barrel but the hitachi has better top end.

  • Author

Ok, it's a 2bbl hitatchi, no O2 sensor so no control. Should the jets be changed? I've already done the manual secondaries conversion mentioned in the USRM and decreased the fulcrum/increased the stroke on the accel pump (simple redrill farther up the pivot shaft). I also added a real return spring because the stock one was a bit weak and didn't quite get it back to idle.

 

Now what?

Now what?

 

1. Remove carb.

 

2. Huck carb at nearest garbage receptacle.

 

3. Replace with SPFI.

 

The manual secondary just gives you more low-end torque off the line..... really though unless you are seriously hard up for cash, doing anything to the Hitachi is "polishing a turd".

 

GD

Ok, it's a 2bbl hitatchi, no O2 sensor so no control. Should the jets be changed? I've already done the manual secondaries conversion mentioned in the USRM and decreased the fulcrum/increased the stroke on the accel pump (simple redrill farther up the pivot shaft). I also added a real return spring because the stock one was a bit weak and didn't quite get it back to idle.

 

Now what?

 

Are you sure the return spring was keeping your carb from going back to idle? A frayed throttle cable will do that too, and worn throttle shafts. Anyway, what you've got is all you'll get. Save some cash and get a Weber on it, or go with FI.

GeneralDisorder is right about getting rid of the carb.If you don't understand carbs or don't have anyone to help you do a weber swap,then the spfi is the way to go.

 

Kind of strange for me to say that since I love carbs and all!:)

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