February 7, 200719 yr ok, in auto i got the whole thing apart, but my auto teacher says, if i never want to have to do this for a long time, or ever, that i should use this Anorberic (SPelling?) THe stuff that doesnt harden unless its not exposed to oxygen and turns to a plasticy sort of sealer. He wants me to put a thing layer of that on the gaskets, both sides. Should i do this? or am i asking for it to fail, i REALLY need this thing to just stop leaking, im not into doing this Again. Also, is there a torque sequence, i know its 14-16 lbs, but what order should i torque them?
February 7, 200719 yr Dealer only. NO SEALANT. The proper gaskets are graphite impregnated metal - just like a head gasket. And just like the HG's, they are designed to be installed dry. Clean the mating surfaces with a wire wheel. Clean the bolts with a wire wheel, and chase the threads in the heads with a tap. Torque to 12-14 ft/lbs with a 3/8" torque wrench. There's no sequence. If you use the cheap cardboard aftermarket gaskets then probably use a sealer on them - but they will fail no matter what you use. There's a reason Subaru doesn't make them from cardboard. GD
February 7, 200719 yr +1 no sealer. I installed mine dry and took my time making sure both mating surfaces were clean and flat. No leaks yet!!
February 8, 200719 yr I'll add that I have NEVER had a properly installed OEM gasket fail. I've blown TWO sets of Fel-Pro cardboard units....:-\. They just didn't do their homework on those. GD
February 8, 200719 yr Author ok thier dealer gaskets, so no on the sealer. I got brand new bolts from the dealer. So ill make sure everything clean and what not then, thanks!
February 8, 200719 yr What's the Subaru part number for the intake gaskets? I need to pick up a set for the hatch.
February 8, 200719 yr Wire wheel works best. Sanding removes too much material, and unless done very carefully with a perfectly flat surface will result in a warped surface. That, and 600 grit wouldn't do squat. It would clog too easily. Get a wire wheel. GD
February 8, 200719 yr I will repeat, don't forget to clean the threads in the heads out with a thread chaser. You should have one in your shop, hopefully. If not, "to do it right" as your teacher said, you should go buy one. The new OEM bolts are worthless if you forget that. good luck convincing your teacher that the internet was right
February 8, 200719 yr ok, in auto i got the whole thing apart, but my auto teacher says, if i never want to have to do this for a long time, or ever, that i should use this Anorberic (SPelling?) THe stuff that doesnt harden unless its not exposed to oxygen and turns to a plasticy sort of sealer. It wouldn't hurt if you coated the gaskets with the same non-hardening sealant used to join the two block halves, but it's probably not needed as other people said.
February 8, 200719 yr It wouldn't hurt if you coated the gaskets with the same non-hardening sealant used to join the two block halves, but it's probably not needed as other people said. Actually it will hurt - you will prevent the graphite from bonding with the aluminium. If properly installed, dissasembly should result in the destruction of the gasket as it bonds to the aluminium sufaces like a head gasket would. This is why the surfaces must be COMPLETELY clean. All the failures I've seen were related to cheap gaskets or poorly prepared mating surfaces. GD
February 9, 200719 yr If you ever think there might be a remote possibility that somebody somewhere down the line might have to pull the intake again, use anti-seize on the bolts. If you didn't break a bolt taking it off, you're extremely lucky.
February 9, 200719 yr Author the first time i did it, it broke a bolt, that time i used antisieze so this time they came out fine.
February 9, 200719 yr ALWAYS use antiseize on your intake bolts, they break so easy after 150k miles. It's a B(female dog)h to drill out and rethread or helicoil.( I like Helicoil cuz they will last way longer than crappy soft aluminum thread. Especially when you dismantle and reinstall occasionally)(sp?)
February 10, 200719 yr If you ever think there might be a remote possibility that somebody somewhere down the line might have to pull the intake again, use anti-seize on the bolts. If you didn't break a bolt taking it off, you're extremely lucky. +++1!
February 11, 200719 yr Actually it will hurt - you will prevent the graphite from bonding with the aluminium. If properly installed, dissasembly should result in the destruction of the gasket as it bonds to the aluminium sufaces like a head gasket would. This is why the surfaces must be COMPLETELY clean. All the failures I've seen were related to cheap gaskets or poorly prepared mating surfaces. GD Indeed..... If you have to use sealent, it must be one that will set, like a copper sealant. Non setting goo is for use on paper gaskets and the like only.
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