The local subaru dealer, and SubaruParts.com, both want me to replace my flywheel with the clutch. (2001 outback)

 

Why? Is there something special about subarus that resurfacing the flywheel isn't good enough?

I'm sure they would like to sell you the part and at the same time avoid any future warranty issues. This doesn't mean it's necessary to replace it. Do you know what the old one looks like, or don't you have it apart yet?

 

Any "bad flywheel" symptoms?

<<The local subaru dealer, and SubaruParts.com, both want me to replace my flywheel with the clutch. (2001 outback)>>

 

how much does your dealer want to charge you?

When our Subaru garage replaced the main bearing ('98 Legacy), they replaced the flywheel with a resurfaced used one, didn't touch the clutch. Said there was nothing wrong with the clutch, the flywheel was all chewed up.

 

Find a place that will be honest with you, not just try to sell you the maximum amount of parts/services. The guys I go to are all about trying the simple things first.

 

Brian M.

The local subaru dealer, and SubaruParts.com, both want me to replace my flywheel with the clutch. (2001 outback)

 

Why? Is there something special about subarus that resurfacing the flywheel isn't good enough?

 

It depends upon how chewed up the flywheel is. Subaru flywheels dont like having alot of material taken off (if you have deep grooves). Ask them for more reasons.

 

nipper

It depends upon how chewed up the flywheel is. Subaru flywheels dont like having alot of material taken off (if you have deep grooves). Ask them for more reasons.

 

nipper

 

Yea, the only reason should be if your flywheel is grooved badly. Otherwise they're just being overly conservative. Same idea as resurfacing or replacing your brake rotors when you do a pad change.

 

All I had to do is lightly sand the flywheel and spray it down with brake cleaner. Good to go for the past 50,000 mi.

I'm sure they would like to sell you the part and at the same time avoid any future warranty issues. This doesn't mean it's necessary to replace it. Do you know what the old one looks like, or don't you have it apart yet?

 

Any "bad flywheel" symptoms?

 

Warranty is long gone. I don't know the difference between "bad flywheel" and "clutch is done". Clutch has been slipping under load (but not in daily driving) since I got it a couple weeks ago. Now it's started chattering as well when starting in 1st, so I guess I can't put it off any longer....

<<The local subaru dealer, and SubaruParts.com, both want me to replace my flywheel with the clutch. (2001 outback)>>

 

how much does your dealer want to charge you?

 

Heh. Dealer wants $600 for the parts (including flywheel) and EIGHT HOURS labor, or 6 1/2 hours labor if I don't replace the flywheel. Presumably at something like $100/hr but I didn't ask. An hour and a half to unbolt the flywheel and bolt on a new one??

 

My mechanic wants $450 for the parts (not including flywheel) and $820 for the whole job including $40 labor for resurfacing the flywheel.

 

SubaruParts.com has the clutch kit for $270, or an extra $70 for new flywheel.

 

<Shakes head> I was blown away by the dealer quote. I don't know whether the SubaruParts.com price is just way lower than the going rate for some reason, or my mechanic just really likes to line his pockets on parts prices. I don't know anymore if my earlier statement about how I had a trustworthy mechanic is true -- I'm trying to figure a way to ask him what kind of profit he makes on parts without insulting him.

There are only two reasons to replace the flywheel: 1) the old one is bad (deep grooves or radial cracks in the metal) or 2) a performance upgrade (a light weight flywheel for example). If you are not going for #2, then ask to see the old part and have him explain why it is bad. Replacing the flywheel is not something that you expect when replacing the clutch.

<Shakes head> I was blown away by the dealer quote.

 

on a recent parts search for a duty c valve assembly, the on line price was 68.89$, the MSRP price was 94.12$, thats a 36% markup (or a 25% discount). the local dealer price was 112.94, that's 60% over the on line price and 20% over the MSRP.

 

dealers love selling parts, maybe there's more profit than selling cars.

I generally replace the flywheel at the same time but it's just a matter of saving time. If I have a flywheel ready to go, I don't lose a day sending it out to have it turned. Plus there are no nasty surprises which will delay the repair which a bad flywheel will do. It also has the added advantage of replacing the mainseal at the same time if it's needed. If the old flywheel is good, I can have it turned for the next time I do a clutch.

I think that if it's only $70 more, I'd go ahead and plan on replacing it, particularly with the chattering. You don't want to have to go in there again.

The flywheel was a casualty of the MPG and emissions wars. There used to be a lot of material to turn but it was one of those things that ate a tiny bit more fuel.

Modern flywheels have less material and are more prone to warp and chatter after turning. Many mechanics just replace it to avoid the angry customer with a chattering clutch.