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Do you have any ideas what could it be? Here is a problem. When I turn left or right closer to a dead point a car shakes like somebody is pushing it. I went to the parking lot near by and made at least a dozen circles left right, front and in reverse but nothing happened. Than I drove to the store (about 6) miles and than on a sharp turn a car started to shake again. After that it happened again on every very sharp turn. I checked CV boots they all look ok and axels did not shake except on the rear left axel had a slight shake. I appreciate all your inputs and thought you may have. I have a manual 5 Speed Subaru Forester 2001.

 

Thanks,

Dmitry

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Isn't this a classic torque bind symptom? Do a search in the forums for torque bind - there's plenty of info there. It might also be useful to know if this is an automatic or manual transmission.

 

Thank you all for your inputs. I have a manual 5 speed Forester.

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This is torque bind. Go out right now and check your tire pressures. Have you replaced a tire recently?

On a manual there isnt much you can do once TB rears its ugly head. You may just have a low tire. If all the tires match, you need to start saving your pennies for a repair of the AWD unit.

Someone is going to jump in and say try aa additve, but the AWD unit is sealed with its own fluid and there is no fluid to change.

The reason why it takes some time for it to show up is because it takes that long for the fluid to heat up and start applying the AWD.

I am hoping its just a tire issue and nothing else.

 

nipper

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Thank you all for your inputs. Last night I checked a tie pressure. It was at 34 psi on all wheels. I drove back to the parking lot and made few circles listening a car by bending down and looking under a car. I believe I was able to determine a source of the sound. On the driver side I was coming from a front wheel and on the passenger side from a front wheel too. The sound was similar when we all drive on the concrete payment and car shakes when we pass thermal cut. Sounded like whom whom whom…. My guess this is a ball bearing… Does anybody know the easiest way to check it out?

Thanks, Dmitry

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Do a search under "viscous coupling". From what I've read torque bind is an issue with automatics not manuals. I have your issue but only left turns on cold days (20F) after the car has been driven some. There are some comments that this is a power steering related issue. If it chatters/shudders on both left and right turns then the viscous coupling makes more sense. Feels like you're going over a rumble strip? Rumor has it a viscous coupling ain't cheap.

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Do a search under "viscous coupling". From what I've read torque bind is an issue with automatics not manuals.

 

Read more, TB in manuals is covered here, and it does happen in manuals. Thats just when it happens in a manual there isnt anything you can do about it besides fix it, so its not discussed at length :(

 

 

nipper

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I checked transmission oil. It was almost twice above FULL mark. :dead: I am going to drain some out today. Can symptoms I described earlier caused by overfilled oil. I am getting more more confident that it relates somehow to oil temperature. A car behaves as I described only after driving minimum 6-7 miles on highway and not when I did 25 minutes of slow circle turns on the parking lot next to my house. Any opinion? Thank you, Dmitry

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I checked transmission oil. It was almost twice above FULL mark. :dead: I am going to drain some out today. Can symptoms I described earlier caused by overfilled oil. I am getting more more confident that it relates somehow to oil temperature. A car behaves as I described only after driving minimum 6-7 miles on highway and not when I did 25 minutes of slow circle turns on the parking lot next to my house. Any opinion? Thank you, Dmitry

 

Yes its TB. It wont show up so muuch on thight turns next to your house driving slow while the VC is cold. a 30 foot turning circle is not like driving the car 6-7 miles.

 

Not to pick on you, but your getting advice here to search and read amd listen. There is informtaion here on how a viscous coupling operates and why it gets worse when it heats up.

 

As the VC fluid heats up, its gets thick and almost becomes a solid. This in turns transfers power to the rear wheels. The VC will not do this at low speed turns, because its designed NOT tyo do it at slow speed turns. Eventually it will do it all the time. For some reason in the past your VC got damaged, and thats why you are seeing this happen.

 

As i said before, your looking at needing a VC at some point in the near future.

 

nipper

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  • 4 weeks later...

Thanks to everyone. Nipper you are right about VC and I am impressed how you instantly spotted a problem. I ordered central dif. from Jason at Auburn Subaru (He has the best price (almost $200 less than what a local dealer could offer)) and found local guys how can put it in. Now everything drives just like it should.

 

The cost to repair was $419 part + $8.75 for shipping. I paid $400 to put it in. The total I paid $828. It's hard to find a Subaru transmission shop here in Atlanta except stealerships. They quoted me from $3,500 down to $1,200 for this kind of job including a part. The only way to replace a VC is to replace a whole Central Differential where Viscous Coupling is built in. So $430 for a new central dif was not a bad deal at all. Thanks everyone for referring to Auburn Subaru.

 

If anyone needs a car mechanic who knows Subaru (I saw some people were looking for one in Atlanta area) I would call first JDS Brazuka Auto at 770-428-2300 and speak to Judson. These guys do not charge arm and a leg like other local mechanics in Atlanta area.

 

Thanks again,

Halyva

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