Checking in on a few things

[Hotshot]

Alright, I figured it was time to make another thread about all the small nuances of my '97 Outback, and try and fix a few of them.

 

CEL is throwing P0420 and P0325, cat not working right, or o2 sensor, and something messed up with a knock sensor.

 

I'll start off with the noises

 

1. This is by far the most annoying, and I haven't been able to place where it is coming from while sitting in the drivers seat. I actually took a video clip of it, and can probably find a way to post it if it would be helpful. The car starts to whistle under heavy throttle, starting at about 2500rpm@WOT all the way to redline, with a distinct change in pitch at exactly 4K. It is very loud, but does not seem to affect how the car drives.

 

2. While driving, I can hear a ticking sound that seems to be in time with the revolution of the tires. Tires are fairly new, and in good shape. The only time this is noticeable is when there is something for the sound to reflect off of, such as when driving by a wall or steep bank. Has been doing it for quite some time, has not seemed to get any better or worse.

 

3. When hitting bumps in the road or my my driveway, there is a sharp click from the front end of the car, as if something was loose and moving against something else. I couldn't see anything that was loose when I had the car on a rack, so is this just a general noise or is something worn out? The car still tracks straight when driving, and there is no play in the steering.

 

 

On to some other non-noise issues

 

4. The airflow controls for the heat/ac seem to get stuck. Not the buttons, but whatever it is that physically changes the flow of air. I usually can not get it to anything left of the floor position. On occasion, when it has worked, it seems to slide into place with an audible "thunk". That and the blower is always noisy, I can distinctly hear each rotation.

 

5. Something nasty apparently got on my wheels at one point in time, and there is a little bit of corrosion around the ends of the spokes. Did not seems to want to come off, and I was afraid to try too much and risk scratching the aluminum. Any ideas?

 

6. My gas door no longer has anything to latch onto, but I assume I am going to have to figure out where the latch went myself.

 

7. The person who I got the car from was a hard-core liberal, and I personally blame John Kerry for removing large sections of paint from my bumper. Is there any way to touch this up, have it look decent, and not have to pay someone to do it professionally?

 

8. CEL is on, and I had someone check the codes and they said it was a catalytic converter. Doesn't that basically just mean an O2 sensor went bad? I didn't get the exact code from him.

 

And one more question: I removed the intake silencer, and ran a short piece of tube from the side of the box into the fender. Does anyone know if this would somehow prevent me from passing a Virginia vehicle inspection?

 

Thanks for reading my rant on everything that I bothers me about my car. The car itself runs great, and I couldn't be happier with it. These are just a few of the things that bother me a little.

[tcspeer]

on problem # 2, I would check each tire all of the way around for a nail or screw that may be imbedded but not far enough for the tire to go flat.

Alright, I figured it was time to make another thread about all the small nuances of my '97 Outback, and try and fix a few of them.

 

I'll start off with the noises

 

1. This is by far the most annoying, and I haven't been able to place where it is coming from while sitting in the drivers seat. I actually took a video clip of it, and can probably find a way to post it if it would be helpful. The car starts to whistle under heavy throttle, starting at about 2500rpm@WOT all the way to redline, with a distinct change in pitch at exactly 4K. It is very loud, but does not seem to affect how the car drives.

 

2. While driving, I can hear a ticking sound that seems to be in time with the revolution of the tires. Tires are fairly new, and in good shape. The only time this is noticeable is when there is something for the sound to reflect off of, such as when driving by a wall or steep bank. Has been doing it for quite some time, has not seemed to get any better or worse.

 

3. When hitting bumps in the road or my my driveway, there is a sharp click from the front end of the car, as if something was loose and moving against something else. I couldn't see anything that was loose when I had the car on a rack, so is this just a general noise or is something worn out? The car still tracks straight when driving, and there is no play in the steering.

 

 

On to some other non-noise issues

 

4. The airflow controls for the heat/ac seem to get stuck. Not the buttons, but whatever it is that physically changes the flow of air. I usually can not get it to anything left of the floor position. On occasion, when it has worked, it seems to slide into place with an audible "thunk". That and the blower is always noisy, I can distinctly hear each rotation.

 

5. Something nasty apparently got on my wheels at one point in time, and there is a little bit of corrosion around the ends of the spokes. Did not seems to want to come off, and I was afraid to try too much and risk scratching the aluminum. Any ideas?

 

6. My gas door no longer has anything to latch onto, but I assume I am going to have to figure out where the latch went myself.

 

7. The person who I got the car from was a hard-core liberal, and I personally blame John Kerry for removing large sections of paint from my bumper. Is there any way to touch this up, have it look decent, and not have to pay someone to do it professionally?

 

8. CEL is on, and I had someone check the codes and they said it was a catalytic converter. Doesn't that basically just mean an O2 sensor went bad? I didn't get the exact code from him.

 

And one more question: I removed the intake silencer, and ran a short piece of tube from the side of the box into the fender. Does anyone know if this would somehow prevent me from passing a Virginia vehicle inspection?

 

Thanks for reading my rant on everything that I bothers me about my car. The car itself runs great, and I couldn't be happier with it. These are just a few of the things that bother me a little.

[Hotshot]

on problem # 2, I would check each tire all of the way around for a nail or screw that may be imbedded but not far enough for the tire to go flat.

 

Thanks for the suggestion, I'll check all the tires tomorrow to be sure.

[ron917]

 

And one more question: I removed the intake silencer, and ran a short piece of tube from the side of the box into the fender. Does anyone know if this would somehow prevent me from passing a Virginia vehicle inspection?

 

 

Was that before or after the whistle in item #1 started?

[OB99W]

on problem # 2, I would check each tire all of the way around for a nail or screw that may be imbedded but not far enough for the tire to go flat.

Yep, I've even had a small stone wedged in the tread sometimes cause the same type of noise.

[OB99W]

1. This is by far the most annoying, and I haven't been able to place where it is coming from while sitting in the drivers seat. I actually took a video clip of it, and can probably find a way to post it if it would be helpful. The car starts to whistle under heavy throttle, starting at about 2500rpm@WOT all the way to redline, with a distinct change in pitch at exactly 4K. It is very loud, but does not seem to affect how the car drives.

[...]

8. CEL is on, and I had someone check the codes and they said it was a catalytic converter. Doesn't that basically just mean an O2 sensor went bad? I didn't get the exact code from him.

I'll get back to #1, but first #8. The code may have been P0420, "Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold". That can be caused by a bad cat, and sometimes just a bad O2 sensor. AutoZone and places like it will usually read the code for free, so get it again if you can, and any others at the same time.

 

Oh, an exhaust leak that lets air in also can cause the "catalyst efficiency" code, and as to #1, can sometimes cause a whistle as well.

[Hotshot]

Was that before or after the whistle in item #1 started?

 

The noise had been occurring long before I took out the silencer. I had noticed it being loose and was hoping it would solve the problem by taking it out. However, it had absolutely no effect on the noise.

[Hotshot]

I'll get back to #1, but first #8. The code may have been P0420, "Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold". That can be caused by a bad cat, and sometimes just a bad O2 sensor. AutoZone and places like it will usually read the code for free, so get it again if you can, and any others at the same time.

 

Oh, an exhaust leak that lets air in also can cause the "catalyst efficiency" code, and as to #1, can sometimes cause a whistle as well.

 

It seems like a logical deduction. I will see if I can swing by autozone and get the code pulled, and then check for an exhaust leak. Since it is only a whistle, would that make it harder to find? Are there any places in the exhaust that are particularly prone to leaks?

[Hotshot]

I just now got back from Advanced Autoparts, and they pulled the codes for me.

 

First one, as was expected, is the P0420, suggesting the o2 sensor needs to be replaced. I would like to wait until after I figure out something with the exhaust leak before I try and change it.

 

The second code surprised me a little. it was P0325, saying there was a circuit malfunction on the knock sensor. The guy said it also might have been caused by the exhaust leak, and there not being enough back pressure, but I didn't think it would do that.

 

I am not sure of the last time either of these were replaced, and I was quoted 185$ for both of them.

[JPX]

2. While driving, I can hear a ticking sound that seems to be in time with the revolution of the tires. Tires are fairly new, and in good shape. The only time this is noticeable is when there is something for the sound to reflect off of, such as when driving by a wall or steep bank. Has been doing it for quite some time, has not seemed to get any better or worse.

Might be CVs. If you have split axle boots, the joint will get grit in it and click away. Watch for spun off grease around the blown boot. You can go an amazing amount of miles in this condition. But it would be best to replace the axle assembly before a big drive or the next winter season.

 

3. When hitting bumps in the road or my my driveway, there is a sharp click from the front end of the car, as if something was loose and moving against something else. I couldn't see anything that was loose when I had the car on a rack, so is this just a general noise or is something worn out? The car still tracks straight when driving, and there is no play in the steering.

 

Check the steering rack boots for tears. If there is a tear, then the inner tie rod may be contaminated and it will make noise as it binds. I had popping noise on certain turns under braking - the passenger inner tie rod was the culprit.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=66318

Other possibilities could be ball joints or front strut mounts. When was the last time the front struts themselves were replaced?

 

7. The person who I got the car from was a hard-core liberal, and I personally blame John Kerry for removing large sections of paint from my bumper. Is there any way to touch this up, have it look decent, and not have to pay someone to do it professionally?

 

I repainted my front bumper with rattle cans:http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=862222

It took a lot of prep work. But once the paint started going on, it really came together quite well for the low $$$ put into it.

[OB99W]

[...]The second code surprised me a little. it was P0325, saying there was a circuit malfunction on the knock sensor. The guy said it also might have been caused by the exhaust leak, and there not being enough back pressure, but I didn't think it would do that.[...]

It would take a substantial (you couldn't miss it!) leak to significantly reduce exhaust back pressure; besides, P0325 indicates circuit (electrically-related) trouble. Check the knock sensor connections and mounting for corrosion, etc. first. The knock sensor itself may have failed (some develop cracks); if so, get an OEM unit and be sure to torque the mounting bolt to spec.

[OB99W]

[...]First one, as was expected, is the P0420, suggesting the o2 sensor needs to be replaced. I would like to wait until after I figure out something with the exhaust leak before I try and change it.[...]

Another possibility with P0420 and an exhaust "whistle" is partial blockage; a failing cat can be the cause. However, you would likely notice some performance loss when the engine is under heavy load (accelerating at highway speeds or hill climbing), and since you said "It is very loud, but does not seem to affect how the car drives.", this possibility is less likely.