Davalos Posted April 29, 2007 Share Posted April 29, 2007 Well, I thought I was golden for awihle ... Was following this Ferrari this afternoon (not like I was gonna be able to keep up ... ), when WHAM!!!! I never knew such a tiny little airplane-motor could make so much damned noise! Hehe! Anyway - after I got home, I rolled him up on the ramps & took a peek. Looks like the neck on the flange snapped in FRONT of the converter ... ick. So basically, kinda looks like I need everything from the Y-Pipe back. The muffler itself looks 1/2 way decent, but if I'm droppin' it anyway ... why not? Then maybe I can say "Okay .. now I'm really REALLY golden for awhile!..." wishful thinking, I know. But hey - it'll at least be one less thing to think about. I did some searching on the Boards, and I've seen pepole mentioning the 304 stainless... not sure I wanna spend $600+ ... but who knows? I might be talked into it ... Questions: There are tons of heat baffle plates on the Y-Pipe - so it's really hard to see what kinda shape it's in - any good ways of testing it out, or should I just look for one if it's not too much dinero and throw it in-the-mix, for good measure? Stainless or not? Are the complete Y-thru-Tailpipe really in the $600 range? Or is more like $1200? or $3K? ... If I go with a conventional system, are there any brands to avoid? Any stand-outs out there? Any tips or tricks to look-out for? Looks pretty simple - just a couple hangers & such ... doesn't look too rough. Wish I was farther-along on my electric conversion ... I could just skip this part completely, heh heh. Thanks, Folks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted April 29, 2007 Share Posted April 29, 2007 Hells bells, I thought we lost you!! Honestly, If I were you I would just go to a boneyard and pick up a y-pipe.. I am unclear where your exhaust snapped, though.. you say IN FRONT of the converter.. but then suggest getting everything from the Y pipe BACK.. if it snapped in front of the converter, then you should be able to unbolt the flange still on the "rest of your exhaust," unbolt the broken Y pipe from the heads, and just get a new Y pipe.. If it snapped behind the converter, then you can probably just get some patching pipe stuff at autozone or something like that to keep it together... Personally, on a non turbo car, I wouldnt spend $100 on exhaust for it unless the WHOLE thing has totally rotted away.. and THAT is with the mindset of "I want to run this engine for another several years." Given that you are trying to do the electric conversion, I would find scraps and junk for a nickel-and-dime budget and just "keep it working" until its obsolete... In short, it is pretty simple. Picture drain pipe plumbing; except theres no need to have any "vent" or "breather" (I don't know the term, the little holes in the top/front of your bathroom sink ) Just piece some pipes together and call it a day. Unless the damage WAS done in front of the cat, there is ABSOLUTELY nothing you can hurt; and if the break IS in front of the cat, then you MAY end up with some minimal exhaust leaking, which could throw your O2 sensor readings off... but thats a BIG "could." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAugur33 Posted April 29, 2007 Share Posted April 29, 2007 Not sure exactly what is broken on your pipes, BUT I have kept all of my Subarus (7 car/ 15 years) by going to independent exhaust places and having them weld/shape pipe replacements in for the Y. I don't think I have ever spent more than $50 for a Y pipe repair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davalos Posted April 29, 2007 Author Share Posted April 29, 2007 Hells bells, I thought we lost you!! Nah. Just been a little spoiled while enjoying the shiney new trouble-free existance after the engine-pull/reseal/axle/brake/oil pump/blah blah blah ... My axles are still blue, hehe! I looked-up http://www.overnightautoparts.com/, and doesn't look like they have the converter ... Looks like they have the connecting pipe & muffler assemply (I thin k I've seen it with the tailpipe both welded and flanged-on). I'll give tem a call on Monday. I saw some 'universal gerenics' on ebay, too ... hehe. NOT! Given that you are trying to do the electric conversion, I would find scraps and junk for a nickel-and-dime budget and just "keep it working" until its obsolete... That's a good point - I do have a tendency to overkill things ... as far as the break-point, it snapped between the converter and the y-pipe flange - at the skinny part. My guess is that there's nothing to weld-to. Anyone ever tried braizing these things back together? I could see myself tackin' in a couple bolts or something to make a little "bridge" & then fill-in ... it'd sure be the most ghetto thing I've done in awihle but it might make for some good pics, hehe! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted April 29, 2007 Share Posted April 29, 2007 So the break is between the cat and the engine? and there is a flange in the way?? I take it it isnt in a good, straight section of pipe, huh? a VERY old skool "redneck" fix is to cut the top and bottom off of a soup can, cut along the length of the remaining cylinder so that you can spread it aparet, and slip it over the pipe. Then get two exhaust clamps and clamp the bugger on down.. BUT I am assuming youve got something in the way.. I would just go to a junkyard and pull a y-pipe. Take what you need to be able to retrofit it back onto your remaining exhaust system, and if needed, go pick up a clamp-on joint piece to get it all together. IIRC, there is a flange fitting a foot or two behind the exit of the cat.. so just unbolt there, and get the complete Y pipe/cat assembly back to that point.. Maybe paint it with some high temp spray paint before putting it on, if you really want to overdo something.. Or find an exhaust shop who can weld your stuff back together, like was mentioned above. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZRX Doug Posted April 29, 2007 Share Posted April 29, 2007 If you're in Ann Arbor, you might consider making the trip into Detroit..I was just at Parts Galore (junkyard on Eight Mile east of Hoover) chasing down some Mopar stuff, and they had a couple Loyales and a Legacy in stock that I noticed, maybe more Soobs, I wasn't really looking..bring tools, they let ya pull your own stuff..all the cars are on stands, and most are on pavement, so there's no wriggling in the mud..and the prices are dirt CHEAP!! FWIW, I agree with RAuger33..a local exhaust shop is probably the most grief-free way to deal with it, but if you wanna go for the absolute cheapest price and you've got the time to blow, salvage yard stuff is likely the route for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davalos Posted April 29, 2007 Author Share Posted April 29, 2007 So the break is between the cat and the engine? and there is a flange in the way?? The Y-Pipe seems ok, and it ends in a rear-facing flange, which seems to be ok; it's the cat-side of the flange is what appears to be rotted-out (front facing) - the neck of the flange, actually - where it gets skinny. Looks like there is only about a 3" space between the flange and the cat itself. I'm gonna see if I can braze something in there. I've seen the soup-can fix ... but I think the temps coming off the Y-pipe are probably way more than that could take. Further-down the pipe (heh heh), I'm sure I could try that. I guess I got nothin' to lose by trying... might at least buy me some time in looking some parts, if it comes to that ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quidam Posted April 29, 2007 Share Posted April 29, 2007 Hey Davalos, I had that flange and pipe into the converter cut off at a muffler shop on my GL. He welded a new pipe into the converter. I had him weld a new flange onto the other (muffler) end of that pipe as well. Total cost was $40.00 installed with a new doughnut gasket and spring kit. Took him about an hour. Doug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted April 29, 2007 Share Posted April 29, 2007 Are you taling before the resinator ?? On the straight pipe? Thats what it sounds like to me cause Bucky did the same thing once and I thought the same thing. Only cause the Cat is built into the Y pipe. I wish I had a pic of how I fixed mine for a few weeks until I had a new/used exhaust put on( 3 coat hangers:rolleyes: ) ...3 years later still going strong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted April 29, 2007 Share Posted April 29, 2007 The Y-Pipe seems ok, and it ends in a rear-facing flange, which seems to be ok; it's the cat-side of the flange is what appears to be rotted-out (front facing) - the neck of the flange, actually - where it gets skinny. Looks like there is only about a 3" space between the flange and the cat itself. I'm gonna see if I can braze something in there. I've seen the soup-can fix ... but I think the temps coming off the Y-pipe are probably way more than that could take. Further-down the pipe (heh heh), I'm sure I could try that. I guess I got nothin' to lose by trying... might at least buy me some time in looking some parts, if it comes to that ... Then all you REALLY need is a test pipe. Also, your exhaust is different from mine; my Y pipe is solid, one piece from either cylinder head through the cat, and into a single pipe with a flanged fitting about a foot behind the cat. I have two inlets to my cat; one for either side of the engine. Basically all you REALLY need is a "test pipe;" a pipe to bolt into your exhaust in place of the catalytic converter... sometimes if you just go in with dimensions and an example of the flange, you can convince an exhaust shop to weld you up a pipe that you can take home and bolt on yourself; but technically this IS illegal. Deleting the catalytic converter is not technically legal anywhere in the US, but there are alot of places you can get away with it, especially on an old econobox that never goes fast Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhise Posted April 29, 2007 Share Posted April 29, 2007 Are you taling before the resinator ?? On the straight pipe? Thats what it sounds like to me cause Bucky did the same thing once and I thought the same thing. Only cause the Cat is built into the Y pipe. I wish I had a pic of how I fixed mine for a few weeks until I had a new/used exhaust put on( 3 coat hangers:rolleyes: ) ...3 years later still going strong. That resonator is a catalytic convertor on the loyale. I don't what year they started using two cats, but it certainly makes the exhaust more expensive. I think I've seen the rear cat listed for $160something online somewhere. Maybe you could see if a shop could weld it back together without replacing the convertor? OT - Hey ZRX Doug, my country/rock band is playing up the at Limelight (12 1/2 and VanDyke) on May 12th. If you're up for it, it would be cool to see two rusty old gen wagons in the parking lot, lol! Especially since I NEVER see any of old gen cars on the road around here... -Doug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted April 29, 2007 Share Posted April 29, 2007 That resonator is a catalytic convertor on the loyale. I don't what year they started using two cats, but it certainly makes the exhaust more expensive. I think I've seen the rear cat listed for $160something online somewhere. Maybe you could see if a shop could weld it back together without replacing the convertor? -Doug Well the exhaust thats on my 92 Loyale is actually off of on 86 carbed wagon ( we pinched the "trumbone" shut and folded it over...car still passes emmissions with flying colors)...it has the dual cats...and the reason I stated resinator pipe cause in the parts books ..thats what it is listed as...and if you just ask for the Cat( Y pipe) its like $400 but the res is $160. I do believe all EA82s have the duals..my ER27 also runs the duals. I can't remember if my EA81 had duals or not. My ER27 has a patch I can try and get a pic and maybe it will help you figure out a cheap way to fix it ( Mines was right where the flange was also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davalos Posted April 29, 2007 Author Share Posted April 29, 2007 Wow .. didn't realize there were so many options ... This is the best I could do for a pic of the whole schmeal. My Y-pipe dosn't look like it's got any kind of converter. So many heat baffles, it's hard to tell anything. That's a better pic ... hopefully, you can see it ok. Shouldda tok pics when i had him on the ramps. Edit: ACK!!! Holy crap! I need to practice-up on my re-size! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted April 29, 2007 Share Posted April 29, 2007 Yup that can be fixed..take off the heat shield and have someone cut and weld a small piece of straight pipe in..Give me 5 minutes and I will take a pic of the patch on my XT6...but thats the same place my Loyale broke. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted April 29, 2007 Share Posted April 29, 2007 Now this is the exhaust from my XT6 ..but you will get the idea for an easy fix.: Dont mind my fiances feet..fe is taking the pin striping off so we can paint the car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davalos Posted April 30, 2007 Author Share Posted April 30, 2007 Cool - I'm gonna try that tomorrow & see what happens - not much to lose, I guess. Any idea what diameter I should use? Should I over-size it and fill-in, or will that mess with the back-pressure balance? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baccaruda Posted April 30, 2007 Share Posted April 30, 2007 Oversize would be better than undersized.. that heat shielding should come off fairly easily; you might have some bolts snap from rust instead of unscrewing. Put it back on or not when you're done, it's your choice. If you take it to a shop, you'll probably end up getting a new flange (with a fresh welding surface) as well as the forward 2" or so of the pipe replaced. My EA81T's downpipe did that right off of the turbo today.. I can't even limp it to the shop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davalos Posted May 2, 2007 Author Share Posted May 2, 2007 Anyone know what diameter that pipe coming off the front end of the converter is? Seems like I could just snag a flange (I assume it's a flat flange with about 8" on it) and just forget the patch-ipb completely - just go new flange and weld that to decent metal on the converter pipe ... Inch and a quarter ID sound right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted May 2, 2007 Share Posted May 2, 2007 sounds small to me.. but i dont know a number to give you. Do you own a set of calipers? if not, run to harbor freight and pick one up; it NEVER hurts to have a measuring caliper around. If you have a section of pipe that came off, something you could walk into a store with, you can go to pep boys or someplace like that and find other patch pieces to match it up to and find the ID that way... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thealleyboy Posted May 2, 2007 Share Posted May 2, 2007 My standard "Alley" exhast set-up for non-turbos is very simple: OEM "Y" custom-bent 2" straight pipe cherry bomb muffler extension tailpipe (optional) The critical piece is the straight pipe. I fabbed up a prototype, and I was able to find a pipe-bender who will dupilicate them for me on demand. Everything fits together (without flanges) and can be C-clamped securely. Cost for the pipe, cherry bomb and hanging hardware less than $100. This set-up performs (and sounds) great!! PM for more details if interested in going this route... good luck, John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davalos Posted May 6, 2007 Author Share Posted May 6, 2007 Update: Well, it's sloppy ... but it's quiet & it's strong as Hell ... heheh Took the old flange off & the heat shied (btw - Who is the Einstein that designed thebolt pattern on that converter heat shield!?) - the flange itself was ok - so I ground it down to some good metal and picked-up a couple pieces of scrap pipe & a reducer (it was WAY smaller than 2 & 1/4" ...). Anyway, tacked it in, & filled-her up. It's Butt-Fuggly ... but hey ... it's qiuet, and i'll buy me enough time to do the electric conversion if I decide to do it (I did a rust inspection while I had it on the lift ... uh oh! ...) Thanks for all the advice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted May 6, 2007 Share Posted May 6, 2007 I bet that patch will last the life of the car now...seems when we do these patches they hold up better then original anyway...and it sure beats the cost of a new exhaust when you dont have the money;) Looks Good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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