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Torque bind, follow-up to "99 outback with rear-end noise"


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Thanks for everyone's input so far. I've spent a good bit of time reading my new Haynes manual and searching/reading this forum. I'm now pretty convinced I have torque bind and have a couple of follow-up questions.

 

My car is a 99 outback legacy wagon with 115k miles, 5-speed manual. The symptoms are classic torque bind: thunking on maximally-tight radius turns (left and right), worse in warm weather or after driving enough to heat the car/tranny. I thought it was front-end, but a mechanic I brought it to thought rear-end. He checked the wheels, axles, boots front and rear and said everything looked good. Tires are new <10k miles. At one point in the past, though, I know I had pressure issues (improved by sanding the rims, now they don't leak.) He said I'd need a new rear differential, "and by the way, the clutch has only 12-18 months left." Now I'm thinking maybe he meant I'd need a new clutch pack/VC, and a rear differential; I've subsequently noticed oil-spray on the rear differential - maybe needs seals?

 

I called a local dealer today, who quoted $950 for the VC including parts/labor. This sounds like a decent ballpark price? If the rear differential seals are leaking, can I replace just the seals, or should I expect to replace the differential itself, and if so, what are the relative costs?

 

Thanks

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Thats actually a very good price for a VC replacement.

 

It is possible that the rear diff was damaged if you had one tire with lower psi (hence smaller) then the other for a long period of time. If the selas are leaking bad enough you may have lost a lot of lubricant. Has that been checked?

 

Is there any noise from the rear end? If the diff is bad (assuming its not an LSD) does it roar, with the volume increase ing with speed?

 

i usually hesitate to agree that a rear diff is bad on a subaru, as its rare.

 

nipper

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i'm with nipper, i wouldn't assume the rear diff is bad. the seals often look wet with no significant loss and they very rarely fail...even on 80's subarus they rarely fail. i'd change the rear diff oil...it's probably never been done anyway? and while changing, look for signs...either lack of oil or chunks/shiney metal pieces in the old oil. these would be signs that the diff is bad. i would check here first since it's easy. if it's that bad, just jacking the rear of the car up and turning the wheels by hand may show something in the diff? removing the rear half of the driveshaft would isolate the diff. if you feel "torque bind" in that situation then it's a rear diff issue.

 

most likely only one thing is failing..trans or diff, not likely both of them.

 

$950 is hard to believe for a VC job, i wouldn't be surprised if that price mysteriously creeps up once the final bill is paid if they really are replacing it (another questionable point if you don't know these guys well?).

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As part of the prior investigation of this noise, they had previously replaced the fluid in the rear differential. At that time they had swabbed it with a magnet ("looking for metal filings to indicate wear"???) and hadn't gotten anything. The issue of leaking rear differential seals was raised at a recent oil change by Jiffy lube (please no flames, I now know better; I'll never go back there...) so it may be nothing. At the time the fluid was replaced (mid winter), it was full and "looked fine," nothing on the magnet-sweeper. I've not noticed a particular noise from the rear-end. The only noise issue I've had is the torque bind.

 

The $950 quote was our local subaru dealer (Ed Reilly Subaru, Concord NH). I bought the car new from them and they've done most of the prior work on it. I've had no specific complaints previously, a recent CEL/EBD code issue not withstanding (they basically punted after changing plug wires - cylinders #3&4 misfire - P3030/P0304). I'm thinking of calling a couple of other local mechanics, maybe the next-closest subaru dealer to get a price quote.

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