Hi,

 

I think I did something really stupid tonight,

 

I have the Actron OBD2 Scan tool, the (160 dollar auto zone one) works excellent, but tonight I think I may have fried my computer.

 

I was checking the codes with the engine running, and decided to clear them also with it running, the CEL did go out, but almost immediately after that it started running really crappy (95 2.2) I shut it off and proceeded to change what was bad as read by the code reader. (MAP something? Over on the pass side strut tower)

 

I go to restart it and I get nothing, it tried to start and if you gas it just right, and hold the gas to it it spits and sputters and runs terribly.

 

I have already replaced the following, MAF, TPS is fine, IACV is fine, Replaced coil pack, plug wires, Cam sensor, crank sensor.

 

I checked and have spark and gas,

 

It simply wont run, it spits and sputters and tries to start but wont, sometimes if you hold the gas it'll start up and run rough and as soon as you try to give it more gas it dies, keep in mind that just before all of this it drove and ran absolutely perfect, not 2 minutes before I decided to check/clear the codes.

 

Did I fry the computer?

 

Any other ideas on what I should check?

 

Thanks in advance....

~Tim

WOOOOOOOOoooooooooooooooooooo

 

Put down the tools and back away from the car.

 

You started a mass replacement of parts, from what i can tell blindly, so you may have made something bad even worse.

 

Lets start with basics.

 

How many miles are on this, year, and when was the last time the timing belt was changed.

 

Next lets make sure you have a strong blue spark on each coil pack.

 

It sounds like to me its flooding (assuming the timing belt is ok). A good suspect would be the temp sensor.

 

Re read the codes. Then disconnect the battery for 30 minutes. Try to start the car again and tell us the codes then.

 

nipper

Hopefully you didn't damage anything when you did that. I like Nipper's idea of disconnecting the battery though by clearing the codes you should be doing the same thing.

 

My test unit has me look at the codes by connecting the unit to the socket and then turn on the tester. I have cleared the codes in some of my friends vehicles but I didn't realize at the time that when you do that it not only erases the codes but also the memory along with the monitors. The monitors can take some time before they are set again. I will no longer clear the codes unless it is really necessary to do so. The ECU has to relearn the engine operation. There may be a procedure that needs to be followed for the ECU to relearn the engine parameters. This may be part of your problem now at least.

I've cleared codes while running in '00obw without issues. Two things I can think. First is you have a '95, which might have a few quirks in the ODBII.

 

Second, what code # did you have? I wonder if the ECU may have been in a failsafe because of the faulty component (like not using that component's input), Then when you cleared the code, it went back to trying to use the faulty component and may do so until it recognizes the fault again?

You did not do any damage by clearing while running.

 

You said you changed the part over the strut tower? What did you replace? How soon before all of this happened? Check all of you clamped connections and all hoses after the mass air, it sounds like you have a leak post meter. Pull the codes again and post what you find. Don't forgit about the hose underneath the intake tube running to the IAC

The car is a 97 Outback with the 95 2.2 conversion< Engine has around 80,000 on it.

 

I have conveted many of these over before without problems.

 

The timing is ok, I checked it, and yes it is running (when I can get it to run) wxtremely rich because the exhaust was getting very hot when it was sitting there stumbling and barely idling.

 

I forget the code numbers that I had, 2 of them were O2 sensor codes, and the other do were something with Map/Baro sensors i'm pretty sure,

 

Anyways all the intake hoses are connected and all electrical plugs are okay and tight. It also has spark at each plug.

 

Temp sensor?

 

Thanks for the help on this,

 

~Tim

The temp sensor and o2 sensor can make the car run very rich. Either failure on its own may not be that bad, together its possible you are dumping fule into the engine, and pissing off the cat. You may be getting an o2 code because the car is running too rich, and the o2 sensors as far as they know, are reading off the scale.

 

Check the engine temp sensor. If it is busted and the car thinks its stone cold, its going to dump a lot of fuel into the engine.

 

nipper

*UPDATE*

 

Took the day off from work and went out this morning to tackle it,

 

Went out and hooked everything up, battery cables were disconnected and attempted to start it.....fired right up and ran excellent. Drove it 35+ miles easy and then got on it and ran perfect didn't skip a beat. The CEL is on and its reading me O2 sensor Bank 1 sensor 2 and still that MAP/BARO sensor input low, I forget the PO numbers on both of them.

 

What is that MAP/BARO sensor? Where is it also?

 

I shut the car off and restarted it and it was perfect. Drove it again and its fine. It does seem however to lack power, (o2 sensor maybe)

 

I'm going back out in a little bit to change the o2 sensor, but I really don't know to much about the other MAP/BARO sensor or what to do with it.

 

Thanks

~Tim

My info doesn't show anything about a MAP sensor for either a '95 or a '97 model. The sensor is used to check the atmospheric pressure so the air/fuel ratios are adjusted properly. My info does mention a MAF sensor for the '97 model year. I assume you are using a ECU for a '95 2.2 liter.

It is mounted on the pass strut tower in the probably rusted looking bracket. I have a couple layin around if you need one. The O2 code is downstream (behind the cat)

There's a vacuum hose that runs over to a solenoid on the passenger side strut tower. the solenoid then has a hose that runs up to the MAP sensor right above it. Mabe you knocked off one of the vacuum hoses? The hoses running to the MAP solenoid T off of the hose running to the fuel pressure regulator, which could make it run rich at idle because it's not dropping the pressure down to match the manifold pressure.