biglittledog Posted June 24, 2007 Share Posted June 24, 2007 Just because I couldn't find any pictures in this forum and I had a bad one in my hand... here are pictures of an original (discontinued) grey connector knock sensor from my '94 Legacy 2.2L motor. I never got a Engine light or ECU code for this so it was still functioning to some degree. I replaced it with a new one for 45 dollars and the car ran better immediately afterwards. What you see from above after its been wiped off... Much more damage from the two side views. You won't really be able to see this clearly until its out of the car. From underneath you can see the damage to both sides and in the last picture I broke off part of the casing and you can see tons of corrosion inside. Keep in mind that the sensor is really a piezo microphone: two thin plates of metal separated by a thin layer that generates a tiny amount of current when it is vibrated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reveeen Posted June 24, 2007 Share Posted June 24, 2007 Strangely, mine had a small top crack (pic 1, but smaller), showed open when checked with an ohm meter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted June 25, 2007 Share Posted June 25, 2007 mine looked EXACTLY the same! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biglittledog Posted June 25, 2007 Author Share Posted June 25, 2007 This is the worst I've seen and it's not a great design by any stretch of the imagination. The new one is stronger in some way that I can't see but we still had to replace it in our 2000 Forester after 5 years. I thought it would help folks to see what the little troublemaker looks like... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lawsonmh15 Posted June 26, 2007 Share Posted June 26, 2007 This is the worst I've seen and it's not a great design by any stretch of the imagination. The new one is stronger in some way that I can't see but we still had to replace it in our 2000 Forester after 5 years. I thought it would help folks to see what the little troublemaker looks like... That's weird. Do you have any pics of where it is ON the engine? Hoping I don't need to replace one, but if the 325 keeps returning... Hoping that the locations are the same between the 99 and 2000. I keep hearing that it's on the driver's side below the mani but not feeling like unbolting for fun. TIA. If it's visible from above, I may know where it is, but could you post a pic please? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lawsonmh15 Posted June 26, 2007 Share Posted June 26, 2007 That's weird. Do you have any pics of where it is ON the engine? Hoping I don't need to replace one, but if the 325 keeps returning... Hoping that the locations are the same between the 99 and 2000. I keep hearing that it's on the driver's side below the mani but not feeling like unbolting for fun. TIA. If it's visible from above, I may know where it is, but could you post a pic please? Thanks. More threadin' Found a good pic that is CLOSE to the same location as my 99 2.5. Found the link in a thread in here from a couple years back. Here it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted June 26, 2007 Share Posted June 26, 2007 They are in pretty much the same place on the ej motors, and because of the placement the heat kills them off. Making them brittle and they eventually crack to bits... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biglittledog Posted June 27, 2007 Author Share Posted June 27, 2007 That's a great pic showing the location! You also get the idea that it is pretty hard to see any cracks way down in there. I didn't have any trouble getting mine out with a socket and extension. Getting the new one in isn't bad either if you squeeze a couple of fingers down in there and get it started by hand...then just use a torque wrench to set the bolt and you're good to go. Some engines may be a little harder, I don't know except my 94 Legacy L and wife's 00 Forester are the same. 5 minutes tops after you've done it once. Just do it when the engine is cold to make life a little easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthenium Posted July 3, 2007 Share Posted July 3, 2007 That's a great pic showing the location! You also get the idea that it is pretty hard to see any cracks way down in there. I didn't have any trouble getting mine out with a socket and extension. Getting the new one in isn't bad either if you squeeze a couple of fingers down in there and get it started by hand...then just use a torque wrench to set the bolt and you're good to go. Some engines may be a little harder, I don't know except my 94 Legacy L and wife's 00 Forester are the same. 5 minutes tops after you've done it once. Just do it when the engine is cold to make life a little easier. Yeah, a Cooler engine makes for an easier replacement. I removed the intake tube to the throttle body as well. Another thing to watch out for is the clip on the throttle linkage. Mine was Needle-Sharp, and I got a cut worthy of stitches. Of course I just wrapped some duct tape around it and kept working! Mine had a single crack on the top of the sensor. And even unbolted I couldn't see it. But once I pulled it out, and got some SUNSHINE on the part, it was pretty obvious. Fat Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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