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Initial EJ22 start-up and engine break in


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I am a week or so away from turning the key on a SubaruVanagon conversion (fingers are crossed). I came across a new old stock (NOS) Subaru 2.2l / EJ22 engine. The engine is brand new, never started, and has also set for several years. I have some questions about the initial start-up and the break-in period.

 

-- What procedure would you follow ensure that the cylinders and pistons are lubricated at initial start-up?

 

-- What viscocity oil would you use?

 

-- Any special oil additives? I had to drop the oil pan to install the engine mounts on and the original factory oil was red in color. I am assuming that Subaru used some type of oil additive....

 

-- How many miles until first oil change?

 

-- Any special driving conditions for first 500/1000 miles?

 

Also, I would like to eventually run Mobil 1 full systhetic. Any opinions on when to switch? First oil change?

 

Thanks for the advice.

 

Dharma_bum

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I am going to ask a few questions first...

 

What condition did you find the engine in. How was it stored. Can it be turned by hand?

 

An engine sitting around for a while can be a bit of an unknown.

 

 

What have you done to the engine to prep it for running before you installed it, if anything?

 

Have you lubircated the cylinder walls?

 

Have you removed the valve covers to see what condition the valve train is in?

 

Rubber parts can dry out when they sit around. Modern engines dont like to sit around.

 

 

 

nipper

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Hi Nipper:

 

Thanks for the reply.

 

<<I am going to ask a few questions first... What condition did you find the engine in. How was it stored. Can it be turned by hand?>>

Engine was purchased by a well known Indy engine builder to go in a sprint car project that never materialized. Engine sat is his engine shop for several years covered in plastic with all ports taped. Other than wipe it down a little I have done no prep. All of the gaskets and seals that I have inspected seem perfect. Engine turns by hand. I had to drain the oil and drop the oil pan to mount the engine mounts so it has a new oil filter and will have fresh oil.

 

<<An engine sitting around for a while can be a bit of an unknown.>> Agree. I guess I will know more once it is started and run for awhile….

 

<<Have you lubricated the cylinder walls?>> I have not. Please walk me through this process. I don’t want to damage the engine during the initial start-up.

 

<<Have you removed the valve covers to see what condition the valve train is in?>> I have not, but if it is anything like the rest of the engine it will be in perfect condition.

Pic available. Send me a p-mail….

Thanks!

 

[/font]

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What a find!

 

Prime the oil pump! Crank the engine with the ignitor disconnected until the oil light goes out. Reconnect and start engine.

 

If I was going to switch to Mobil 1 I would go for around 15-20K miles first.

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Hi Nipper:

 

Thanks for the reply.

 

 

<<I am going to ask a few questions first... What condition did you find the engine in. How was it stored. Can it be turned by hand?>>

 

Engine was purchased by a well known Indy engine builder to go in a sprint car project that never materialized. Engine sat is his engine shop for several years covered in plastic with all ports taped. Other than wipe it down a little I have done no prep. All of the gaskets and seals that I have inspected seem perfect. Engine turns by hand. I had to drain the oil and drop the oil pan to mount the engine mounts so it has a new oil filter and will have fresh oil.

 

<<An engine sitting around for a while can be a bit of an unknown.>> Agree. I guess I will know more once it is started and run for awhile….

 

<<Have you lubricated the cylinder walls?>> I have not. Please walk me through this process. I don’t want to damage the engine during the initial start-up.

 

<<Have you removed the valve covers to see what condition the valve train is in?>> I have not, but if it is anything like the rest of the engine it will be in perfect condition.

 

Pic available. Send me a p-mail….

 

Thanks!

 

[/font]

 

OWY MY EYES!!!!!

 

Is the engine already installed in the vanagon?

 

nipper

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[...]Prime the oil pump! Crank the engine with the ignitor disconnected until the oil light goes out. [...]

You might first pull the plugs and put an ounce or so of oil into each cylinder, then turn over by hand to distribute. When cranking, disconnecting the injectors until the oil pressure comes up could help prevent fuel from washing the oil down.

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[...]I had to drain the oil and drop the oil pan to mount the engine mounts so it has a new oil filter and will have fresh oil. [...]

If you didn't do so, the filter should be filled with oil so that the engine doesn't crank with it dry for any time.

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[...]Thanks for the ideas.
Just to clarify, when I mentioned "disconnecting the injectors", I of course meant electrically.

 

 

Any opinion on oil weight and addatives?
Break-in of "modern" engines doesn't usually require special oil; use high quality oil of the viscosity you intend to run, since a good oil will include a decent additive package. (Some here may recommend their favorite additive, however. :) ) I would suggest a non-synthetic initially. Although all the ports were "taped" during storage, there might be some (hopefully minor) corrosion. I'd watch the color of the oil carefully for the first few hours; if it darkens rapidly, change it and the filter even if the hours/mileage are very low.

 

Just as important as the oil is the coolant. Be certain that there's no air trapped in the cooling system. It's a topic that comes up on the forum often; do a search.

 

During the break-in, it's a good idea to to be easy, but not too easy. Keep the revs reasonable for the first few hours until you see how things are going. After that, it's important not to hold RPM constant for too long; vary the engine speed and load, and give it short bursts of acceleration that over the first few hundred miles are increased in RPM and duration. Again, monitor the oil and change it if necessary.

 

Best of luck with the project.

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Subaru has some break in procedure for new engines like do not exceed 4000 rpm or something. Some people like to dump a bottle of torco assembly lube in there.

 

I'd pull the all the plugs and put a couple shots of LC20 or motor oil in there.

 

A neat, but possibly harder, step would be pull the oil pressure switch and somehow inject/pump oil in there to get it circulating before starting since it has sat so long. The thread is 1/8" bspt (british standard pipe tapered thread).

 

Then turn the crank by hand for a few revs to lube it up in there real nice.

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