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Looking for new (to me) Outback... Which engine?


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If you are looking for an Outback you don't have too many options. The only way you going to find a 2.2 OB is a 95, or a 96 with a manual trans. The only thing you are gaining with the 2.5 is a little more grunt. 2.2s are much better engines. If you have a little extra cash I would shoot for a 2000 or newer Outback with the 2.5 SOHC engine. They are much more refined to drive, are easier to work on and more reliable than the 2.5 DOHC found in the 96-99 OBs. That is my 2 cents I am sure there will be more to join in. Good luck!

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If you are looking for an Outback you don't have too many options. The only way you going to find a 2.2 OB is a 95, or a 96 with a manual trans. The only thing you are gaining with the 2.5 is a little more grunt. 2.2s are much better engines. If you have a little extra cash I would shoot for a 2000 or newer Outback with the 2.5 SOHC engine. They are much more refined to drive, are easier to work on and more reliable than the 2.5 DOHC found in the 96-99 OBs. That is my 2 cents I am sure there will be more to join in. Good luck!

 

what's the price tag going to be on the 00+ ?

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99 or 00 was when the phase II 2.5L sohc's started. Until ~03 they had the possiblity of the external coolant peeping leak.

 

The best way to find out the price in your area is to look around. Prices vary around the country depending on how popular suby's are there, etc. Try your local craigslist, autotrader, etc.

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check the vehicles in your price range that have the 2.2. impreza outback sports are nice, very functional like a wagon, look nicer but have the 2.2 liter engine. they are a little lower on trim level and goodies, such as drum brakes instead of rear discs. but legacy rear discs upgrades can be done.

 

i personally avoid the 2.5 (unless they have a blown headgasket - easy to find) and never let a friend or family member buy one. if you do want one, get one that has the newer style headgasket or buy one with a blown headgasket and have it fixed. they are not hard to find like that. i have a couple now and if i had more time/room there are more i could pick up. my point is, the 2.5 is nice, but i would never pay even close to full price for one with original headgaskets.

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I personally can't stand the look of the impreza, so I can't see myself buying one of those :P but I'm keeping my eyes open for a outback... *looking for one with mechanical work so I can get it under $2000 that's my budget right now.... so I think the 00's are out of my price range :P unless I save for a while more

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OK, some possibilities: buy like a 96 outback or so with blown hg's and swap in a 2.2L from the salvage yard.

 

Or a '95 or '96 Legacy already with a 2.2L in reasonable shape (though maybe a few miles) should be haveable in your price range. Then if you really wanted an outback you could put on outback struts and springs later and be close.

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http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=180131594372&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=008

that looks tempting but I don't want a Car loan I already have one on My Ford Truck, don't need another bill :P I've been seeing 99 outbacks going on CL for around 3K .... so maybe if I scrap up another 500 or so I could get one of those :P I guess I really like that outback look always wanted one

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Two months ago, I was fortunate to find a local '96 Outback on Craigslist for $2500. 2.5L, automatic, 154K miles, decent overall condition, excellent tires, and a detailed history of repairs and maintenance. The HG's were done at 134K, and a variety of other items were replaced within the past two years: front catalytic converter, oxygen sensors, coil pack, plugs and wires, seals (no leaks anywhere), belts, battery, and more. It was no bargain for the previous owner, but is very satisfactory for me. One thing: the radiator began leaking within the first week. No problem; I replaced it with a better one (all metal) for $145. The car was cosmetically imperfect--minor dings and scratches--though better than average for its age; it needed a thorough cleaning, but everything was and is working properly, and there's no hint of torque bind. I don't think there's any downside to the 2.5L DOHC engine under these circumstances, except that you'll give up a bit of fuel economy for the extra power.

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It looks clean; it's obviously just been detailed. You'd really have to see it in person to see if it has the external HG peeping leak issues. If it hasn't had the timing belt replaced, it's overdue and should be done right away. Also if it's the original clutch it might be getting tired too...not that these are serious issues but they're costs/risks to consider of course.

 

Are there any vehicles closer to you? I mean you're kind of far away from that one and shipping costs are going to add like $600 maybe. Or you can fly out and drive back but that's still $$.

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The first one looks clean. 233k miles is up there, but if it was well maintained it should have no trouble keepin on keepin on. Hopefully the HG's were already replaced in any case with that many miles.

 

The second one says it has has a blown head gasket and cracked rear separator plate. So obviously that's going to take time and money to fix. If the engine wasn't overheated repeatedly severely. And it doesn't state the mileage.

 

Of course clutch condition since they're both MT's. And the torque bind.

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The first one looks clean. 233k miles is up there, but if it was well maintained it should have no trouble keepin on keepin on. Hopefully the HG's were already replaced in any case with that many miles.

 

The second one says it has has a blown head gasket and cracked rear separator plate. So obviously that's going to take time and money to fix. If the engine wasn't overheated repeatedly severely. And it doesn't state the mileage.

 

Of course clutch condition since they're both MT's. And the torque bind.

 

 

what do you think that 97's worth with the HG and separator plate work needed? like 900-1000?

 

and on that 96 1000-1200?

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I'm not real up on vehicle values. I'd check out some online sources, like maybe the kbb.com values for private party/trade in/dealer for reference. Then deduct the cost of any work that needs to be done. I'd take a checklist with me when going to look at them. Put things in order of priority, like first check for torque bind and tires matching, then hg issues, then on down, like does a/c work, all lights, struts, etc, etc

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humm I guess the grass is always greener on the other side of the fence :P

 

 

yeah most likley I'd prob Fly out and drive it home

 

Yeah, its greener, lol. Thats why I'll be coming out your way for a brat one of these days, lol.

 

The thing to watch for buying one from the east is rust starting. That kills off more of our cars out here than anything.

 

As for the one needing the seperator plate and hg, maybe 800, If you can do the work yourself.

 

Good luck with your search.

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subaru's are great cars, that is a good vehicle, but 233k is a lot of miles. you'll need to figure out wants, finances and needs for yourself. risk creeps up substantially at this milegae, there are very few 300k vehicles out there. i'm not saying it's always because they can't make it, but it's note worthy. at least it's a manual transmission. this needs work to be reliable, if that matters to you. the timing belt has to be pulled off. even if it's been replaced, that's too many miles to assume the previous mechanic did the job right. those timing tensioners and pulleys need to be inspected. unless they were replaced (unlikely), it is highly likely that some of the pulleys need replaced. i just did a 83,000 mile 2.5 recently and one of the pulleys needed replaced. this is an interference engine, if the timing belt breaks your engine will be trashed...or need major internal repairs. a new belt isn't enough on a 233k 10 year old vehicle, as old pulleys and tensioners can cause timing belt failure. if you are still considering this vehicle...go look at it and see if the headgaskets have been replaced. you can tell by looking at the exposed part of the headgasket behind/under the power steering pump or under the vehicle. that would be nice, but if it's made it to 233k seems like whatever is in there is holding up well!

 

the other one is way too expensive at $2,000, that's crazy talk. cars that need work do NOT sell for "KBB minus the repair costs". no way. that car is worth $500 - $800. i wouldn't pay any more than $500 for it around here, wagons are a dime a dozen. off whatever you're comfortable offering for it, they'll probably decline. come back in 2 months and if they haven't had it hauled away for scrap they'll sell it to you then. they'll have to get really lucky to get anywhere close to $2,000 for that. i see wagons all the time for $2,000 or less in running condition???

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That's true. For a vehicle that doesn't run and has those kind of issues people won't be beating down a path to the door to buy it. How about KBB private party poor condition value minus cost of repairs minus a hefty discount? If you can get the seller to pay you to take it away that is ideal.

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Thanks for the replies guys, sorry I haven't been around much, the Sub hunting kinda got put on hold for a bit here.... to much EMS stuff going on, (including Rollovers, fires, medical calls been busy almost every evening till late so no time to sub hunt :P *in fact I am typing this with my Fire gear on because we are getting dry lightning strikes there are already several fires around but my dept hasn't been paged yet but prob will if this storm keeps up so I'll be back here shortly :P and resume the sub hunt :P

 

Jonathon

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I'm jumping in late on this discussion but I just won a 2000 Outback on Ebay that (fingers crossed) will be a great deal. Now, after the fact, I'm doing more reading and realize that the HG has likely not been replaced on this car....what are the odds that it will need it in the future? This is the car:

http://tinyurl.com/2gwdoj

 

As for realistic price guides, I came across this site on which you can research what cars have sold for via Ebay. I know you can do this thru Ebay directly but this site seems easier to use for some reason:

http://www.theautochannel.com/search/prices.html

 

I don't think you can get a more accurate price valuation than by looking at what things have actually sold for so this might give you a better idea.

 

On the car I won....if the headgasket was replaced, would that show up on the carfax report? The report is available in the auction and shows nothing like that so I'm assuming it wasnt' done?

 

Thanks,

John

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