faithless88 Posted July 6, 2007 Share Posted July 6, 2007 I have been going over my '92 Loyale wagon. And other than the 5 main repairs needing to be done (rear hatch handle, pass side axle and boot, and the purge valve, also windsheild) I have decide to do some other things to it till I get another Loyale in about a month or less. To comaper which would be better as a daily driver and which will become my guina pig for the swap and other mods. Below is a list that I have come up with I want to know how realistic these would be and how hard it would be to do them. 1) Upgrading head lights to a better visual on roadway and astethic look. 2) Add either and second set of head lights and or doing fog lights. 3) Drop the front about and inch or so to give a little more aggresive stance. 4) Try to add a few extra hp to it. 5) fix the cancer on it. 6) Better audio in it. 7) Change tires to a bigger size (read somewhere a peugot 504 or 505 will fit as bolt on or slight moddifaction replacment) 8) and any more ideas either I can think of of any of you guys and gals can come up with. Untill I'm back gonna go play with my little red wagon. (as a side note what is a good mpg for early 90's loyales) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted July 6, 2007 Share Posted July 6, 2007 1) Upgrading head lights to a better visual on roadway and astethic look. 2) Add either and second set of head lights and or doing fog lights. 3) Drop the front about and inch or so to give a little more aggresive stance. 4) Try to add a few extra hp to it. 5) fix the cancer on it. 6) Better audio in it. 7) and any more ideas either I can think of of any of you guys and gals can come up with. Untill I'm back gonna go play with my little red wagon. (as a side note what is a good mpg for early 90's loyales) 1> I run the hyper whites or the blues in my 92 Loyale..looks good at night and really helps with the visuals ( in deer country) 2> many have added fogs or Hellas..looks really good 3> I prefer the lifted look..with bigger tires. talk about mean looking when ( see above )is added 4> EJ22 swap is about all you will be able to do to add hp 5> fix that ASAP..you dont want to loose a good car to the rust 6> I run about 300watts in mine..sounds great ( Sony Xplode!) 7> maybe some tinting...and if you can find an RX body kit...looks sweet on the wagons! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faithless88 Posted July 6, 2007 Author Share Posted July 6, 2007 In about a month's time or less I should be getting a '93 Loyale wagon and a bunch of extra parts for the 2 cars. Was gonna do 1 a ej swap and other as a daily driver. I was thinking about tinting windows or the car that has the ej swap. And never have even seen or heard kits for a Loyale. When you say rx kit are you refering to a mazada rx-7 or 8 or a brand and if so link to a site with them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted July 6, 2007 Share Posted July 6, 2007 In about a month's time or less I should be getting a '93 Loyale wagon and a bunch of extra parts for the 2 cars. Was gonna do 1 a ej swap and other as a daily driver. I was thinking about tinting windows or the car that has the ej swap. And never have even seen or heard kits for a Loyale. When you say rx kit are you refering to a mazada rx-7 or 8 or a brand and if so link to a site with them. No the Subaru RX body kit... Its an EA82 ..either sedan on 3 door.with a small ground effects kit..looks super sweet on wagons..I can try to find a pic in alittle bit.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faithless88 Posted July 6, 2007 Author Share Posted July 6, 2007 Would any wrx kit work or only a select few. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted July 6, 2007 Share Posted July 6, 2007 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=76650 See there for the RX kit. A WRX and RX are two different beasts. The RX is ea82t car with all the extra upgraded nice stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted July 6, 2007 Share Posted July 6, 2007 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=76650 See there for the RX kit. A WRX and RX are two different beasts. The RX is ea82t car with all the extra upgraded nice stuff. Yup..thats the kit I was talking about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faithless88 Posted July 6, 2007 Author Share Posted July 6, 2007 How hard are those kits to come by? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted July 6, 2007 Share Posted July 6, 2007 You are just going to have to keep your eyes open..in junkyards and on the board and ebay..remember ..they dont make them anymore and never made a whole lot of them..patience is the key.But they are out there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faithless88 Posted July 6, 2007 Author Share Posted July 6, 2007 On your head loghts did you just get bulb replacments or whole new lights? Also should be getting pictures of the rust on my '92 red wagon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted July 6, 2007 Share Posted July 6, 2007 On your head loghts did you just get bulb replacments or whole new lights? I found a like new set in the JY and then added the Hyper White Bulbs.. I even keep my side markers super clean .. In case you are wondering..this is my 92 Loyale: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faithless88 Posted July 6, 2007 Author Share Posted July 6, 2007 Your car is so clean. I think the old guy before me just stopped caring about how it looked. I got some beatifull pictures of my rust spots and missing metal. I'm betting big $$ to fix it all. At least the '93 I should be getting is rust free.(family won't let me get it till my dad and I go look at it) Just have to wait and find camera cord to upload the pictures. Oh and the avatar is not mine but same in apperance execpt for rust and bumper stickers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faithless88 Posted July 6, 2007 Author Share Posted July 6, 2007 Ignore this post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faithless88 Posted July 6, 2007 Author Share Posted July 6, 2007 I will just do 21 of them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durania Posted July 6, 2007 Share Posted July 6, 2007 Looks like the great Salt Lake doesnt like Subarus. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CzarMohab Posted July 6, 2007 Share Posted July 6, 2007 Not sure where you can get them, but I would highly recomend "pig matts" for under your car until you get that oil leak found and fixed. They absorb oil and oily products and ignore things like water, and will keep the driveway free from oil stains. Or lots of human hair woven into matts. For some reason it works; they used it in china or something last time there was a big oil spill in the ocean (it was on the news, but it was also like a year ago). Best part there is it can be washed and reused. :banana: Either works better than a cardboard box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted July 6, 2007 Share Posted July 6, 2007 1) Upgrading head lights to a better visual on roadway and astethic look. Have you taken a good amount of time and made sure they are well adjusted??? my 87 GL-10 has such incredibly nice headlights that any time I hear a member complain about them I get the inpression that either their healidghts arent aimed right, (which is something I encounter in about 85% of the vehicles i ride in, including those of my close friends) or there is some sort of wiring issue that is keeping full voltage from getting to the headlights. Make sure you have good battery cables, take the shourd off the steering column inside and check the wires for the headlight switch, check the wires are the headlight relay, and check any plugs between the relay and the headlight lenses. Make sure youre headlights arent dimmer than they should be; because if that is the case then installing higher powered ones is only going to cause more of a problem later on. Sure, your lights will be brighter.. but youre drawing even MORE electricity through a circuit that couldn't really support the stockers. 2) Add either and second set of head lights and or doing fog lights. if you do this, or if you wish to bypass the stock headlight wiring and install new wiring, myr USRM article on relays may well be of great assistance. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=74632 3) Drop the front about and inch or so to give a little more aggresive stance. If you are adventurous, I believe the earlier (4wd? all?) GL style bodies, like 86 or so, had adjustable front struts...This is monkey read, monkey say; i have NEVER seen these and know nothing about them but you might try searching for them... Front Struts, RX Body Kit, maybe some "like-new" headlight lenses.. can you tell you are going to be in junkyards a good deal in the future looking for parts? 4) Try to add a few extra hp to it. Heh, good luck. People think that they get results from cutting some holes on the pre-filter side of the airbox, to let more air into the airbox.. but seriously, the major intake/exhaust restriction in these cars is at the cylinder heads, so nothing "easy" is going to make much difference. you could maybe open up the exhaust flow a little bit by doing something i won't really say outright to the catalytic converter.. (watch out for emissions people) but there isnt much. Dont even think about something like a K&N air filter; the stock air purolator filter cartridge is the same unit that a 300ZX breathes through. it is more than enough for the subaru. It's an economy Queen, not a power hog. 5) fix the cancer on it. ahhhh.. i don't know, my friend. that windshield area stuff is bad. 90% of the strength (or something like that) of the windshield to resist being shattered by the odd tiny rock (or coin, or solid object) comes from being evenly and properly supported around the entire perimeter of the piece of glass. I think to really repair the rust (just in this area) you would NEED to remove the windshield and ensure that the entire support valley is intact, and replace it if necessary. As for the rest of it.. Honestly, the process of repairing the cancer on this car is going to involve totally taking the interior apart and evaluating the rust from the inside as well. http://s130.photobucket.com/albums/p249/tardaeron/Subarust/ These cars rust. Sometimes, we have to be honest with ourselves and give up before we even start. I also have advanced rust at the bototom driver corner of my windshield, similar to what yours could look like in.. a year or five? I have no idea how quickly yours is getting worse but seriously.. (and I may be wrong) you NEED to do a total evaluation on this rust before you set to fixing some of it, because you have no idea what you are in for yet. That clean, white wagon, Bucky.. had awful awful frame rot in one of the rear seatbelt mounting points. She just had it welded back in.. but, Connie has got a LOT of rust repair work under her belt on that vehicle. Just submitting for your consideration. Please also note that that awful rustbucket I linked to is my daily driver and I adore it.. I anticipate driving it until one day, somehow, fate sends the wrong rock in the direction of my windshield and it shatters into a million tiny pieces. BTW my underbody and frame are great, mines all body rust, but the glass area rust is definitely terminal, eventually. 6) Better audio in it. read up about this. It is doable, the loyale is easier than the earlier cars, but i think that you will need to add wires for rear speakers. i BELIEVE the loyales all had full DIN sized stereos, didnt they? I know the earlier cars had small stereos, and they are difficult to install an aftermarket unit into. Doable, but it takes a certain effort. Also, if you DO have rear speakers, there is a good chance that there is a floating ground system; the front and rear channels share the grounds, and modern stereos wont work right like that. Again, this IS how it works on the older cars and i think anything with a factory four channel stereo. 7) Change tires to a bigger size (read somewhere a peugot 504 or 505 will fit as bolt on or slight moddifaction replacment) Well, I run 185/70 13s on mine, they were 175/70s stock.. and I noticed a pretty serious difference in road stability.. i wasnt buffeted around by the wind so much. Peugeot (or pug) wheels are a common upgrade, the only "modification" necessary is for tires of an outside diameter larger than 27" (which i don't think you will want, you seem more of a street driver than an offroader) You DO need special lugnuts, or adapters, to use the pug rims, but that is is. (as a side note what is a good mpg for early 90's loyales) i have a 3at and i get about 25MPG driving like a lunatic. people with 3 speed 2wds frequently can get into the 35 mpg range... but it all depends on driving style and driveline differences. 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Bucky92 Posted July 6, 2007 Share Posted July 6, 2007 Oh yes..rot..dont mind fixing the cosmetics..I have the same rot around the windshield..just not that bad....I slowed mine up this way: pulled alot of the paint off..ro see what is actually livin under it ( this can be scarey).. sanded down the areas I could without getting too close to the window...especially on the roof..treated it with some sort of rust neutralizer ( POR-15...or I cheaped out and used some Dura-Color stuff)..let it all set for a day or too..make sure everything is dry dry..glaze coated it with some bondo..sander smooth and repainting with Krylon Tough on Rust paint. Used Silicone sealer around the glass to make sure the window doesnt leak.Slowed it down for the past 3 years...getting ready to probably do it again. The rest of the rot on the body is easy..but grab it now..and please please...check those back wheel wells ( you have to check from the inside..remove the rear interior) around the seat belt mounts...I dont want anyone to ever have the suprise I did. The body rot repair is a great way to bond with your car..you just need some patience..but when you are finished you can be proud of what you did..My XT6 had some nasty nasty nasty body rot ...And in a very short time and alot of blood sweat tears last nights pop rivets bondo and paint...I now show my XT6. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted July 6, 2007 Share Posted July 6, 2007 AND BTW Daeron...when you going to send your sweety of a seadn up my way and let me take care of some of that cosmetics she needs??? I have some of the repairs already planned out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted July 6, 2007 Share Posted July 6, 2007 AND BTW Daeron...when you going to send your sweety of a sedan up my way and let me take care of some of that cosmetics she needs??? I have some of the repairs already planned out LOLOLOLOL this thing is terminal. Sooner or later im gonna treat it with some cheap rust converter paint and stretch some fiberglass cloth over the holes, just to keep it from standing out like a sore thumb at a quarter mile distance but the cancer is too deep into too many place for me to really care. *IF* the car wasnt a 3at 2WD, then MAYBE I might care.. but i dont want to repair all this rust on a car that needs all new interior pieces, AND a transmission swap to FWD 5 speed if not AWD. I am just planning on waiting, and eventually getting a wagon with 4x4 someday. Then, I take my factory cruise, and all the components of my trip computer, and install all that into the new soob. The way i see it, my car's "soul" is it's "brain" as embodied in the trip computer.. so this makes everything OK. IDEALLY, i might even want to install an EA81 with the SPFI, and go for a (mildly) turbocharged, standalone controlled LPG setup. THIS would give me all the power needed to tow around a small boat without blinking, the reliability of the OHV engine, the slightly less explosion prone headgaskets, the traction to cope with boat ramps and summertime Florida monsoons.... e'er thang! but why bother doing ALL THAT on TOP of rust repair?? i cant TAKE enough photos to show all the small spots... and besides, this vehicle has been something of a joke in my family for almost a decade now. My poor brother bought it about eight months after he got outta jail (long story, basically got pwned by a bicycle cop with WAY TOO MUCH ahh,, green stuff on him) It was a beater he got from his future mother in law, and drove it WAY longer than any of us expected him to. Now I have gone and done the same thing... because i fell in love with it mechanically. If I were to start doing anything to this car my family would just laugh at me. they already think im nuts because ive kept the thing on the road this long, instead of "getting started" on my z. Of course, any time I ever mention the idea of getting my Z up to the shop so I can work on it, there are fifteen reasons that I cant really bring it up to the shop right now..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faithless88 Posted July 6, 2007 Author Share Posted July 6, 2007 My dad worked as a saftey inspector for about 5 years. When I got the car the right one was about 20 degrees higher than the left one so I adjusted them to the correct angels. I just want to change the look of the lights so it's kinda misleading at night. I'm planning on making a sleeper out of 1 of the Loyales I got. As for the relays gotta go spend time in a jy now. Only bad part is if there is a subaru in a jy around me either there is nothing usuable or they want a fortune for it. Most people here drive them till there dead. I might be adventrous and see how badly the cancer is this weekend and tear my inards out of it and put it back. My parents both grew up in Cali an uncle in hawaii and more family here in SLC, so I have family that is use to rust and can fix it fairly easily. Looking for an rx kit now. As for audio kinda just looking around now for things. So for the pug tires I can just bolt the hardware of it in replace of the soob ones? I am a street driver got 4wheelers and a bugy for offroading. My mpg right now is around 20-22. I get bored driving home at night with no one around so I do 90 in it which scares the lving #*&^ outa me. Everything vibrates and rattles. As for my sleeper project this is what I got so far: EJ22 swap diffrent headlights good set of tires window tint upgrade all parts that need to be able to handle the new motor (dependaning on avability) rx kit custom exhuast(try to make it quite) strip back seat out replace front 2 seats with racing buckets and anything else i can come up with till i can afford the motor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zyewdall Posted July 6, 2007 Share Posted July 6, 2007 On the extra horsepower.... do you know how to drive an EA82 subaru? I see alot of posts where people are driving them as if they have a V8 -- keeping the rpms below 2,500. You have to run them between 2,500 and 4,500 for much power -- and oddly, high engine rpm doesn't seem to affect gas mileage that much. I've got 228k on mine and still get close to 30mpg on the highway ('89 GL - same as a loyale, but with the d/r 4wd). It'll actually keep up 85mph on the highway (getting to there takes a while though). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted July 6, 2007 Share Posted July 6, 2007 Well, in case you made your "subarus in the JY" comment regarding my relay write up, all my relays were sourced out of mostly european cars.. MOST european cars will have something like the bosch units I showed. I got the plugs and my bracket out of a late 80s BMW 3 series; check under the hood of any BMW and you should find at least one or two of the individual plugs, easily removed.. the handy covered bracket, scalable up to five relays, was in the 3 series i mentioned. NONE of those parts came from a subaru. However, just about any simple realy works the same way.. it would just be a matter of determining for yourself which terminals are which. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faithless88 Posted July 6, 2007 Author Share Posted July 6, 2007 I normally drive my car at 3000+ rpms normally 3500-4000 range. I shift about 3700. I try and aviod my higer rpms because my car gets almost to the redline on the temp and engine gets extremley hot. If I go above the 4000 mark my car hates me loses some power and just gets really scarey to drive it there. As for the relays try and go after the eurpoean make cars. Any paticualer era as in 80's 90's or 00's. Also how much of a diffrence can removing the back seat make? Was gonna do a tear down to see how bad the rust really is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted July 6, 2007 Share Posted July 6, 2007 Also how much of a diffrence can removing the back seat make? Was gonna do a tear down to see how bad the rust really is. I showed you the pic of the outside of my car..this is what I found on the inner wheel wells: many people have had the same problem..some had their rear shocks blow threw while other looked worse without problems...My concern is where the seat belt mounts to the car..if I had someone in the back with the belt on and I would of just braked hard..it would have ripped out..look closely..you can see the ground..and it looks good here..much worse once I cleaned it up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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