I have a 1990 Ej22 engine that I am trying to change the headgaskets on.I tired following the chiltons tighteng procedure and ended up with no tightness on any bolt.So what is the procedure?Please help.I have to return the engine hoist by 5:30 today.

From my manual:

oil washers and bolt threads

Tighten to 22 ft lbs

3 1 6

5 2 4

Tighten to 51 ft lbs

Back off 180 degrees first, then another 180 degrees

Tighten #1, #2 to 25 ft lbs ( 27.1 ft lbs Turbo)

Tighten #3, #4, #5, #6 to 11 ft lbs (14 ft lbs turbo)

Tighten all bolts 80-90 degrees (in sequence), DO NOT EXCEED 90 degrees

Finish tighten another 80-90 degrees (in sequence), DO NOT EXCEED 90 degrees

 

This is what my 1992 manual suggests.

Here's what's in Haynes

Same bolt patern as in previous post.

3 1 6

5 2 4

 

1) All to 22 ft-lbs

2) All to 51 ft-lbs

3) Loosen all 180 degrees

4) Loosen all additionnal 180 degrees

5) 1 and 2 only to 25 ft-lbs (non turbo charged, 27 if turboed)

6) 3, 4, 5 and 6 132 in-lbs (non turboed, 168 in-lbs if turboed)

7) Tighten all bolts an additionnal 90 degrees

8) Tighten all bolts an additionnal 90 degrees

NOTE THAT (6) IS IN IN-LBS AND NOT FT-LBS.

 

Same thing as in Chilton's it seems.

Since I'm about to remove and replace the left head of my engine, I also would like to know if those numbers are good.

 

Hope that helps.

This is going to show how much I don't know, but...

 

Why wouldn't you just tighten to final spec using an appropriate star pattern? Why this tightening-loosing-tightening routine?

 

And howcome the spec isn't the same for all of the bolts? I'd think that would cause the head to warp.

thanks.It seems my chiltons left off some of the procedure.so it ended with loosening the bolts..

To loosen in mid-sequence is to "crush" the gasket then release for a proper fit when tightened again. These are a multiple plate head gasket and require this prior to installation. The different spec for 1 & 2 woulb be something those little japanese guys across the pond gettin paid 6 figures a year decided was a good idea, and works... haven't seen a failure yet from this method....

 

Lewis

Oddly enough, my British/European Haynes is different on the "pre-tighten", claiming center bolts to 34 ft lbs (#1+#2), rest to 15 ft lbs, making no distinction for turbo charged, or not, then finish up with the two 90 degree tightens.

 

Go figure?

 

I'd go with the "official" Subaru manual.

I did the ones on my 95 wagon as prescribed. Never had a problem from them.

OH GOD OH GOD OH GOD!!!!!I was trying to do the timing and one of the holes for an idler striped out!!!!What can I do?What is the longest lasting fix I can do for cheap?HELP!!!!!!

one of the holes for an idler striped out!!!!

 

If it is the tensioner bolt, that bit is Subaru part number #13086AA012

 

You would clean up the thread with a tap (12mmX1.25, I *think*) and try a longer bolt (but not too long, you don't want to bottom out in the hole), being very careful not to finish the job on the hole.

Helicoil?

 

It is really not a *good idea* to try magic gumbo (concoctions of epoxy) on the camshaft drive.

Timeserts will be more expensive, but they will last longer than the factory aluminum thread would thing about. Providing you do it right.

Just go to the local yard an pull that part off an engine. It's held on with 3 12mm bolts.