Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

Headgasket ???'s


Recommended Posts

So it looks like my temperature problems in my 86 DL are due to gasses leaking into the cooling system. I'm going to have to tackle the headgaskets, but I have a few questions first.

1)Are the HG's easily changed in the car?

2)What mechanical items and gaskets should be changed while the car is apart?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1)Are the HG's easily changed in the car?

 

Not as easy as if you pulled the engine, but if you don't own the stuff to pull the engine you work with what you have, there is nothing you can't do with hands the size of a gnat, and fingers with 6 joints.

 

2)What mechanical items and gaskets should be changed while the car is apart?

 

Anything related you take apart, VC gaskets, cam case "o" ring, intake gaskets, check heads for warpage, timing belts, re-seal oil pump.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the response. I'm trying to make a list so I can get all the parts at once. this is what I cam up with so far.

1)HG's

2)Intake/Exhaust manifold gaskets

3)VC gasket

4)upper/lower rad hoses

5)oil pump reseal

6)Timing belt kit(are all the necessary gaskets/o-rings included in kits?)

7)Accessory belts

8)Waterpump/gasket

9)OEM thermostat/gasket

Do you think this list covers it all?

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OEM intake manifold gaskets, and OEM cam case O rings. It is a metal reinforced O ring that sits between the cam case and the cylinder head. (the cam case forms the top part of the "head," it is what the valve covers bolt onto.)

 

Both OEM parts are available through thepartsbin.com.

 

Head gaskets should be either OEM (must re torque after XXX miles, 500?) or Fel Pro Perma Torque. No retorque needed. Felpros are about 40 shipped from autozone, gaskets only. Some people recommend buying a cheapo Ebay "headgasket" kit because they include many, many of the other seals needed for a bargain price. Just make sure you throw the intake and head gaskets in the trash where they belong.

 

A ratcheting 10mm box wrench makes doing the HGs with the engine in the car VERY doable; without it, five or so bolts on the driver side valve cover will be difficult to remove, the rearmost one ESPECIALLY. With the ratcheting wrench, by myself, going slowly and patiently, it took me one short days work to disassemble the engine, two or three days were spent in cleaning and milling, and one day was spent on re assembly. I did not drive it home that night because I didnt have the timing light from my uncle; but by the time my ride arrived I was DONE. It cranked right up on the first shot, too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Depending on your $ situation...............

Rad hoses, water pump, thermostat, belts, etc. some stuff like this you can get later, you should concentrate on the stuff that is a royal PITA to get at like your cam boxes, oil pump, etc.

 

I would take it apart, and see what you need, chances are you will be sending the heads out to get surfaced, this will give you the time to gather up the other stuff.

 

Fel-pro seem to be the head gaskets of choice on EA82 engines, OEM on almost everything else.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

While you're in there - if the rad hoses are due for replacement, do the 2 heater hoses and the 2 small ones on top of the engine. One goes to the back of the intake manifold, the other under the thermostat housing. Also the little 90 degree one at the water pump. Any of those can fail just like the 2 main ones.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the advice on using OEM on specific items. I was looking at partsbin.com like daeron said, but I'm a little confused about selecting the correct item. Some of the items have a selection VIN(4) or VIN(5) and I was wondering what part of the VIN# tells me this?

Thanks again for everyones help:headbang:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

you should specify which engine, some of us aren't sure which have EA81 or EA82. if yours is an EA82, they are really easy to do in the engine, particularly non-turbo's. i've done a bunch and even more of the 6 cylinder ER27 which is identical to the EA82 with just two more cylinders slapped on, still easy to do in the car. i wouldn't pull one out myself, air tools make it really nice, and i can just about have both heads off by the time it takes to get the motor out. i'd imagine an EA81 isn't all that different time-wise than an EA82, but i've never done one of those. removing the engine is strictly oppinion of course, i've done it both ways. it's definitely a big plus your first time.

 

be very careful removing the intake manifold bolts. they are typically seized and want to shear off, at least in my neck of the woods they often are. there are many posts about sheared intake bolts, removing them, and tips and such. might want to search for those threads.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...