phychotron Posted August 29, 2007 Share Posted August 29, 2007 I'm doing my first clutch on my 82 gl wagon and have finaly got the transmission out, but I'm having a bit of trouble getting the flywheel off. Someone recently cherry-picked my tools and i've had to run back and forth buying stuff as needed. I'm getting sick of it and was wondering what size socket is needed for the nut on the main pulley. Also, those bolts seem to be on there fairly tight, what are the odds that i will need an impact gun to remove these? What other methods are there to remove them? I only tried for a few seconds before i stripped out my two taiwan made sockets. It would be great to have a game plan with all the right tools before they become more of a problem. Also, how important is the O2 sensor on this model? Should i do the main seal while i'm down there? I'm on a tight budget right now and cant afford to do any non-essential repairs. Thanks Wayne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinksock Posted August 29, 2007 Share Posted August 29, 2007 the front main pulley is a 19mm socket and the flywheel bolts are 14mm sockets, on the flywheel be sure to use a 6point socket to asure that you dont round off the corners like i did!! I ended up buying this sockets at sears called bolt-off sockets to get them out. depending on how many miles are on the motor you might want to buy new flywheel bolts because after time they can get stretched out. they are about 1-2 bucks at the subaru dealer. Also be sure to use lock tight on the new bolts or old one to make sure they dont losin up ok. Check your chiltons manual for the tork spec's on the bolts, I think its 30lbs?? good luck ok. Tony~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86ruguy Posted August 29, 2007 Share Posted August 29, 2007 Well, I have never been able to secure the crank by using the crank pulley bolt as it always seems to loosen before the flywheel bolts. I'm not super familiar with the 82 MY flywheel but, I sometimes am able to put a small screwdriver thru one of the clutch bolt holes and secure it against the block. Another thing that I have done is to use a pry bar or a flat tip screwdriver on the teeth of the flywheel and brace it against the studs on the bottom of the bellhousing. Again, not to familiar with the earlier cars. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinksock Posted August 29, 2007 Share Posted August 29, 2007 oh yea, 30lbs on the flywheel bolts and 120lbs on the front main pulley. Tony~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted August 29, 2007 Share Posted August 29, 2007 If you are having trouble keeping the engine from rotateing while trying to remove the flywheel bolts, you can put 2 bolts into the Pressure plate bolt holes (M8?, use extra bolts, not the ones for the plate as they may bend/get boogered doing this) Then use 2-3 foot long piece of flat steel or angle iron braced against those bolts while you undo the Flywheel bolts. The flywheel bolts should not require an impact wrench. Just a breaker bar will do. One trick is to put the socket and breaker on. Hold the bar firm, with just a bit of CounterClockwise pressure with one hand. With the palm of you're other hand, give the breaker bar a sharp, quick blow. The front crank pulley bolt is 22mm, but if you try holding the crank by the bolt, you may just unbolt the pulley, not the flywheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinksock Posted August 29, 2007 Share Posted August 29, 2007 whups it is 22mm sorry. Tony~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinksock Posted August 30, 2007 Share Posted August 30, 2007 as for taking them off again use the 6point socket not a 12point socket ok, then a good socket wrench and a BIG BRAKER BAR!! watch the nuckles ok!! But again be sure not to round them ok and yes they will be on there VERYVERY tight!!!! Tony~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baccaruda Posted August 30, 2007 Share Posted August 30, 2007 44 foot-pounds on the flywheel bolts. Use loctite as well. The pressure plate bolts are 12 foot pounds - easy to remember because they're 12mm as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markjw Posted August 30, 2007 Share Posted August 30, 2007 I found the rear main seal at Schucks. $17....I just stuck the blade of a flattip screwdriver into the rubber, inner, soft portion of the seal, closest to the crank, then gingerly worked the blade in and up behind the outer (hard) portion of the seal then used the crank for leverage and it popped right out. Worked very slick and never jepordized the seal surface of the crank. (Do not use screws or anything like that to drill into the seal) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nvexplorer Posted August 30, 2007 Share Posted August 30, 2007 To keep the flywheel from moving I put an allen wrench in one of the holes on the circumference of the flywheel (as big as you can get in the hole short end first) and brace it against the bellhousing. Hasn't failed me yet! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thealleyboy Posted August 31, 2007 Share Posted August 31, 2007 My favorite "alley" method of locking flywheels, mating transmissions, etc is using large C-clamps. For flywheels, some of the other methods will also work, but there is a risk of damage to the car, or yourself (especially, if you are working alone). It is very difficult to spin the motor while wedging the flywheel, at that angle. By positioning C-clamp at the right places, the flywheel is a piece of cake, and there is less risk of damaging anything. You can focus on the ratchet and torque without worrying about the flywheel slipping. Same is true when it's time to mate up the tranny to the motor. C-clamps are very helpful in guiding/aligning the housings together, and keeping things straight. Less wasted time (and muscle power) trying to give it that final "nudge" good luck, John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phychotron Posted August 31, 2007 Author Share Posted August 31, 2007 I did the ol' screwdiver trick and was able to get it with minimal difficulty. The most helpful was the incoperation of the 6 point socket and a 3" half inch drive extension for added stability. As i was pulling out the bolts it did bleed a little oil, but there's none on the seal itself. I'm going to replace it for good measure though. The first place i took it said they couldnt turn it because of the way it was sunk in (of course, they waited untill 10 minutes before they closed to call). Something about the center hole was not large enough for thier machine. Does this sound normal for that year subaru? The next place said it would be no problem at all. Thanks everyone! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoscowSubaruDude Posted August 31, 2007 Share Posted August 31, 2007 An easy trick I use to keep the crank and it associated attachments from moving is this: Get your #1 cylinder to BDC (bottom dead center), and remove the spark plug from it. get a few feet of nylon rope, just small enough to fit through, and start threading it into the cylinder. Use clean rope, otherwise you'll damage the walls. Fill the cylinder with as much rope as it'll handle, and then get to work on the flywheel or whatever. The rope will keep the cylinder from going through it's cycle, effectively locking the crankshaft, and thus, the flywheel. Just be sure to remove the rope before you try and start the motor. Also, from experience... leave about a foot hanging out. It's a pain in the rump roast to get out of there with nothing to grab. CR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86ruguy Posted August 31, 2007 Share Posted August 31, 2007 Also, from experience... leave about a foot hanging out. It's a pain in the rump roast to get out of there with nothing to grab. CR DOOOO!!!!!!! That's a blonde move. :lol: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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